This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the center link (relay rod) on a 1966 Chevrolet Corvette with 327ci V8, including disconnection of tie rod ends and pitman/idler arm connections.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Center link (relay rod) × 1 — Use OEM specification or Moog DS811
• Castle nuts for tie rod ends × 2 — 3/8-24 thread
• Cotter pins × 4 — 1/8 inch diameter

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and set parking brake firmly
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Mark steering wheel center position with tape or marker
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at frame rail jack points
5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed under frame rails behind front crossmember
6. Remove both front wheels for better access
7. Spray all castle nuts and taper connections with penetrating oil and allow 15 minutes to soak

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove cotter pins from center link connections
   Locate the four castle nuts securing the center link: two tie rod end connections (inner tie rod ends) and two connections at the pitman arm and idler arm. Straighten and remove the cotter pins from all four castle nuts using pliers or a cotter pin puller. Discard old cotter pins.
2. 2

   Loosen castle nuts at tie rod ends
   Using the appropriate wrench, loosen but do not remove the two castle nuts securing the inner tie rod ends to the center link. Back each nut off until it is flush with the end of the stud. Leaving the nuts on protects threads and prevents sudden separation when using the separator tool.
3. 3

   Separate tie rod ends from center link
   Position the pickle fork tie rod separator between the center link and the tie rod end taper connection. Strike the pickle fork firmly with a ball peen hammer to drive it into the taper joint until the connection breaks free. Repeat for the second tie rod end. Once separated, remove the castle nuts completely and swing the tie rod ends out of the way.
4. 4

   Remove cotter pin and loosen pitman arm castle nut
   Locate the castle nut securing the center link to the pitman arm (connected to the steering box output shaft on the driver side). Remove the cotter pin if not already done. Loosen the castle nut until flush with the stud end but do not remove completely.
5. 5

   Separate center link from pitman arm
   Use the ball joint separator or pitman arm puller tool to break the taper connection between the center link and pitman arm stud. Apply pressure with the tool while tapping the pitman arm boss with a hammer to shock the taper joint. Once separated, remove the castle nut completely.
6. 6

   Remove cotter pin and loosen idler arm castle nut
   Locate the castle nut securing the center link to the idler arm (mounted to frame bracket on passenger side). Remove the cotter pin if not already done. Loosen the castle nut until flush with the stud end.
7. 7

   Separate center link from idler arm and remove
   Use the ball joint separator to break the taper connection between the center link and idler arm stud. Once separated, remove the castle nut completely. Lower the center link assembly down and maneuver it out from between the frame and suspension components. Inspect all taper studs on pitman arm, idler arm, and tie rod ends for wear or damage.
8. 8

   Clean all taper connections
   Using a wire brush, thoroughly clean the taper holes in the center link (if reusing) and all taper studs on the pitman arm, idler arm, and tie rod ends. Remove all dirt, rust, and old grease. Clean the threads on all studs. Inspect tapers for damage, scoring, or excessive wear that would prevent proper seating.
9. 9

   Install new center link to idler arm
   Position the new center link so the idler arm end connection is aligned with the idler arm stud. Lift the center link onto the stud, ensuring the taper seats properly. Install the castle nut and tighten until snug. Do not install cotter pin yet.
10. 10

    Connect center link to pitman arm
    Align the pitman arm end of the center link with the pitman arm stud. Lift into position and ensure the taper seats completely. Install the castle nut and tighten until snug. Do not install cotter pin yet.
11. 11

    Connect tie rod ends to center link
    Swing each inner tie rod end into position and insert the studs through the holes in the center link. Ensure the tapers seat fully. Install both castle nuts and tighten until snug. Do not install cotter pins yet.
12. 12

    Torque all center link connections
    Torque the idler arm castle nut to 45 ft-lb. Torque the pitman arm castle nut to 45 ft-lb. Torque both tie rod end castle nuts to 35 ft-lb. If the castle nut slots do not align with the stud holes after reaching specified torque, tighten further (never loosen) until the next slot aligns with the hole.
13. 13

    Install new cotter pins
    Insert new cotter pins through all four castle nuts and studs. Bend the ends of each cotter pin around the castle nut or stud to prevent backing out. Ensure cotter pins are fully seated and secure.
14. 14

    Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
    Reinstall both front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower vehicle from jack stands carefully until wheels contact ground. Torque lug nuts to 80 ft-lb in a star pattern. Remove jack stands and lower vehicle completely.

Reassembly

1. Verify all four castle nuts have properly installed cotter pins with bent ends
2. Check that all taper connections are fully seated with no gaps
3. Ensure steering wheel returns to marked center position when wheels are pointed straight
4. Verify no tools or parts remain under vehicle

Verification

• Start engine and turn steering wheel lock to lock slowly while stationary, listening for any binding or unusual noises
• Perform a slow test drive (under 20 mph) in a safe area and verify steering response is normal with no looseness or wandering
• Schedule a professional wheel alignment immediately, as center link replacement affects toe settings
• After 50-100 miles, re-inspect all castle nuts and cotter pins to ensure nothing has loosened

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