cooling
Engine Oil Cooler
for 1966 Chevrolet Corvette 327ci V8 · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
16
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Remove and replace the engine oil cooler assembly on a 1966 Corvette 327 V8, including disconnecting oil lines, coolant lines, and mounting hardware.
Warnings
⚠️Engine and coolant must be completely cold before starting this procedure. Hot oil and coolant can cause severe burns.
⚠Oil cooler lines are under residual pressure even when engine is off. Loosen fittings slowly to relieve pressure.
⚠Have multiple drain pans ready as both engine oil and coolant will drain from disconnected lines.
ℹ️The 1966 Corvette 327 V8 oil cooler is mounted to the left (driver) side of the engine block below the exhaust manifold. Access requires working from underneath the vehicle.
Tools required
Socket set (3/8" and 1/2" drive)Essential
Combination wrench set (standard)Essential
Line wrench set (flare nut wrenches)Essential
Drain pan (2-gallon minimum)Essential
Coolant drain panEssential
Jack and jack standsEssential
Shop ragsEssential
Wire brush
Parts cleaning solvent
Flashlight or work lightEssential
Catch container for oil linesEssential
Parts
- Engine oil cooler assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Oil cooler mounting gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Oil line copper crush washers × 4 — Use OEM specification
- Coolant hose clamps × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Thread sealant (non-hardening) × 1 — Permatex #2 or equivalent
Fluids
- 5W-30 Conventional engine oil — 1 qt
- DEX-COOL Extended Life coolant — 2 qt
Preparation
- Ensure engine is completely cold (at least 2 hours after last operation).
- Disconnect negative battery cable.
- Raise vehicle on jack stands to safe working height with adequate clearance.
- Place drain pan under oil cooler area to catch oil and coolant.
- Remove engine oil dipstick to vent crankcase and facilitate draining.
- Locate oil cooler assembly on driver side of engine block below exhaust manifold.
Procedure
- 1Drain coolant from oil cooler circuitLoosen the lower radiator hose clamp at the radiator and drain approximately 2 quarts of coolant into drain pan. This reduces coolant loss when disconnecting oil cooler lines. Alternatively, if full coolant system service is due, drain the entire cooling system via the radiator petcock or lower radiator hose.
- 2Disconnect coolant inlet lineLocate the coolant inlet line connection at the oil cooler body. Loosen the hose clamp using a flathead screwdriver or socket. Twist the hose gently to break it free from the cooler fitting, then pull straight off. Be prepared for residual coolant to drain. Position drain pan to catch fluid.
- 3Disconnect coolant outlet lineRepeat the process for the coolant outlet line. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the oil cooler outlet fitting. Allow all residual coolant to drain into the pan. Inspect hoses for cracks or deterioration and replace if necessary during reassembly.
- 4Disconnect oil supply line from blockUsing a line wrench (flare nut wrench) to prevent rounding, slowly loosen the oil supply line fitting at the engine block connection point. The fitting uses a 9/16" line wrench. Loosen approximately one full turn and pause to allow residual oil pressure to bleed off. Continue loosening until the line can be separated. Have a catch container ready as approximately 0.5 quarts of oil will drain from the line.
- 5Disconnect oil return line from blockUsing the line wrench, loosen the oil return line fitting at the engine block. This line returns cooled oil to the engine and will also contain residual oil. Remove the fitting completely and position the line end into a drain pan. Allow oil to drain fully before proceeding.
- 6Disconnect oil lines from cooler bodyMove to the oil cooler body and disconnect both the supply and return oil lines at their connection points to the cooler. Use the line wrench to prevent damage to the fittings. These connections typically use 1/2" or 9/16" fittings. Remove the copper crush washers and discard them; new washers must be installed during reassembly.
- 7Remove oil cooler mounting boltsLocate the oil cooler mounting bolts securing the cooler assembly to the engine block adapter. Remove the 2 mounting bolts using an appropriate socket. These are typically 7/16" or 1/2" hex head bolts. Support the oil cooler with one hand while removing the final bolt to prevent it from falling.
- 8Remove oil cooler assemblyCarefully pull the oil cooler assembly straight away from the engine block mounting surface. The cooler may be stuck due to the gasket seal. Gently wiggle and pull to break the seal. Once free, lower the cooler assembly and remove it from the vehicle. Be cautious of any remaining oil or coolant dripping from the unit.
- 9Clean mounting surfacesUsing a wire brush and scraper, thoroughly clean the engine block mounting surface where the oil cooler attaches. Remove all old gasket material, ensuring the surface is completely clean and flat. Wipe the surface with a shop rag dampened with parts cleaner. Inspect the mounting surface for cracks or damage.
- 10Prepare new oil coolerInspect the new oil cooler assembly for shipping plugs or protective caps and remove them. Install the new mounting gasket onto the oil cooler body, ensuring proper alignment with all ports and bolt holes. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to the gasket to aid installation and initial sealing.
- 11Install new oil cooler assemblyPosition the new oil cooler assembly with gasket against the engine block mounting surface. Align the mounting bolt holes carefully. Start both mounting bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement and alignment. Thread bolts at least 3-4 turns by hand before using tools.
- 12Torque oil cooler mounting boltsTighten the oil cooler mounting bolts in an alternating pattern to ensure even gasket compression. Snug the bolts gradually, then torque to 18-22 ft-lbs in two stages: first to 10 ft-lbs, then to final torque. This prevents gasket distortion and ensures proper sealing.
- 13Reconnect oil lines to coolerInstall new copper crush washers on both oil line fittings. Connect the oil supply line to the oil cooler inlet port and the return line to the outlet port. Thread fittings by hand first to ensure proper engagement. Using the line wrench, tighten the fittings to snug plus 1/2 turn beyond finger tight. Do not overtighten as this can damage the copper washers or crack the cooler body.
- 14Reconnect oil lines to engine blockInstall new copper crush washers on the engine block oil line fittings. Connect both the supply and return lines to their respective block ports. Thread by hand first, then tighten with a line wrench to snug plus 1/2 turn. Verify both connections are secure but not overtightened.
- 15Reconnect coolant linesSlide new hose clamps onto the coolant hoses if replacing old clamps. Push the coolant inlet hose firmly onto the oil cooler inlet fitting until it bottoms against the bead. Position the clamp 1/4 inch from the hose end and tighten securely. Repeat for the coolant outlet hose. Ensure clamps are positioned past the fitting bead for proper retention.
- 16Refill fluidsReinstall the oil dipstick. Add 1 quart of 10W-30 conventional engine oil to compensate for oil lost from the cooler and lines. Refill the cooling system with conventional ethylene glycol (green IAT) coolant mixed 50/50 with water to the proper level, adding approximately 2 quarts or the amount drained earlier. Do not overfill.
Reassembly
- Reconnect negative battery cable.
- Lower vehicle from jack stands.
- Double-check all oil and coolant line connections for tightness.
- Verify drain pans are removed from under vehicle.
Verification
- Start engine and allow it to idle. Monitor oil pressure gauge to ensure normal pressure is achieved within 10-15 seconds.
- With engine idling, carefully inspect all oil line connections at the cooler and block for leaks. Look for oil weeping or dripping.
- Inspect coolant hose connections at the oil cooler for leaks. Watch for coolant seepage or drips.
- Allow engine to reach normal operating temperature (thermostat open, approximately 180-195°F). Recheck all connections for leaks under operating temperature and pressure.
- Check engine oil level on dipstick and add oil if necessary to bring to proper full mark.
- Check coolant level in radiator when cool and top off if needed.
- Test drive vehicle for 10-15 minutes, then recheck all connections for leaks while engine is hot.
- After 24 hours of operation, recheck oil and coolant levels and inspect for any delayed leaks.