Wheel Bearing - Press-In Front

Complete procedure for removing, pressing out, and replacing the front wheel bearings on a 1966 Corvette with independent front suspension.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing (inner) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Front wheel bearing (outer) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Spindle bearing inner race × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Spindle bearing outer race × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Grease seal (inner) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Cotter pins (various sizes) × 6 — 1/8" standard assortment
• Wheel bearing grease × 1 — High-temp lithium complex NLGI Grade 2

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake firmly
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on ground (do not remove)
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at frame jacking points
5. Place jack stands under frame rails behind front suspension crossmember
6. Lower vehicle onto jack stands and verify stability
7. Remove front wheels completely
8. Spray all fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 15 minutes

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper assembly
   Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts from the spindle support bracket. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and secure it to the upper control arm using wire or a bungee cord to avoid stressing the brake hose. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake line.
2. 2

   Remove brake rotor
   Remove the dust cap from the center of the rotor hub. Remove the cotter pin from the spindle nut. Remove the spindle nut and washer. Slide the rotor assembly straight off the spindle. Be prepared to catch the outer bearing as the rotor comes off.
3. 3

   Remove inner grease seal and bearing
   Using a seal puller or large flat-blade screwdriver, carefully pry out the inner grease seal from the back of the rotor hub. Remove the inner bearing from the hub. Wipe out old grease from the hub cavity with shop rags and inspect the hub for cracks or damage.
4. 4

   Remove bearing races from hub
   Using a brass drift punch or bearing race driver, tap out the outer bearing race from the front of the hub, working around the circumference evenly. Flip the hub and remove the inner bearing race from the rear. Thoroughly clean the hub bearing bores with solvent and a wire brush.
5. 5

   Disconnect steering linkage
   Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut. Loosen but do not fully remove the castle nut (leave it threaded 2-3 turns to protect threads). Using a tie rod end separator or pickle fork, separate the tie rod end from the spindle steering arm. Remove the castle nut completely.
6. 6

   Disconnect upper ball joint
   Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut. Remove the castle nut completely. Using a ball joint separator, carefully separate the upper ball joint stud from the spindle. Support the spindle to prevent it from falling when the upper joint releases.
7. 7

   Disconnect lower ball joint
   Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut. Remove the castle nut completely. Using a ball joint separator, separate the lower ball joint stud from the spindle. Carefully remove the spindle assembly from the vehicle.
8. 8

   Remove spindle bearing assembly
   Clamp the spindle carefully in a vise using soft jaws to protect the surface. The spindle has a press-fit bearing assembly that must be driven out. Using a slide hammer with appropriate adapter or a spindle removal tool, extract the bearing assembly from the spindle. Work carefully to avoid scoring the spindle bore.
9. 9

   Clean and inspect spindle
   Thoroughly clean the spindle bore with solvent and a wire brush. Inspect the bore for scoring, pitting, or damage. Check the ball joint taper seats for wear or damage. Measure the spindle bore diameter if micrometer is available to verify it is within specification (approximately 1.378-1.379 inches).
10. 10

    Press new bearing races into hub
    Place the new inner bearing race into the hub and using a bearing race driver or press with appropriate adapter, press the race fully into the hub until it seats against the shoulder. Flip the hub and repeat for the outer bearing race. Ensure races are seated evenly and fully.
11. 11

    Pack wheel bearings with grease
    Using a bearing packer or by hand, pack high-temp wheel bearing grease into both the inner and outer bearings. Work grease completely through the bearing rollers until grease appears on the opposite side. Coat the bearing surfaces completely and set aside on clean shop rags.
12. 12

    Press new spindle bearing assembly
    Position the new spindle bearing assembly with the bearing installer tool and press it into the spindle bore using a hydraulic press. Apply pressure evenly and press until the bearing seats against the internal shoulder in the spindle. The bearing must be fully seated and square in the bore.
13. 13

    Reinstall spindle to suspension
    Position the spindle between the upper and lower control arms. Insert the lower ball joint stud into the spindle and thread on the castle nut finger-tight. Insert the upper ball joint stud into the spindle and thread on the castle nut finger-tight. Torque the lower ball joint castle nut to 83 ft-lbs, then tighten further if needed to align cotter pin hole (do not back off to align). Install new cotter pin. Torque upper ball joint castle nut to 50 ft-lbs, align and install new cotter pin.
14. 14

    Reconnect steering linkage
    Insert the tie rod end stud into the spindle steering arm. Thread on the castle nut and torque to 35 ft-lbs. Tighten further if necessary to align the cotter pin hole (never loosen to align). Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends securely.
15. 15

    Install inner bearing and seal
    Place the packed inner bearing into the inner race in the hub. Apply a light coating of grease to the new inner seal lip. Using a seal driver or large socket that contacts only the outer edge of the seal, carefully drive the seal into the hub until it seats flush with the hub face.
16. 16

    Install hub and outer bearing
    Apply a light coating of grease to the spindle. Slide the hub assembly onto the spindle, being careful not to damage the inner seal. Install the packed outer bearing into the outer race. Install the washer and spindle nut.
17. 17

    Adjust wheel bearing preload
    Thread the spindle nut onto the spindle while rotating the hub forward. Torque the spindle nut to 12 ft-lbs while rotating the hub to seat the bearings. Back off the nut completely (one full turn). Hand-tighten the spindle nut snug while rotating the hub, then back off 1/6 turn (one flat of the nut). The hub should rotate freely with 0.001-0.005 inches of end play. Check end play with a dial indicator if available. Align the spindle nut slots with the cotter pin hole, install new cotter pin, and install the dust cap.
18. 18

    Reinstall brake rotor and caliper
    Verify the rotor is properly seated on the hub. Position the brake caliper over the rotor and align the mounting bolt holes. Install the 2 caliper mounting bolts and torque to 70 ft-lbs. Pump the brake pedal several times to reseat the caliper pistons before moving the vehicle.

Reassembly

1. Install wheel and thread lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading
2. Raise vehicle slightly off jack stands with floor jack
3. Remove jack stands and lower vehicle to ground
4. Torque wheel lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs in a star pattern
5. Repeat entire procedure for opposite side if needed
6. Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify proper operation and listen for any abnormal noises

Verification

• Spin each wheel by hand - should rotate freely with no binding or roughness
• Check for excessive end play by grasping tire at top and bottom and attempting to rock in and out - should have minimal movement (0.001-0.005 inches)
• Verify no grease is leaking from hubs after short test drive
• Listen for any grinding, humming, or clicking noises while driving at various speeds
• Verify steering responds normally with no unusual feedback or looseness
• Check that brake pedal feels firm with no change in pedal feel
• Recheck all castle nuts and cotter pins are properly installed after test drive

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