brakes
Brake Rotors - Front Pair
for 2017 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.3 h
Tools
13
Steps
12
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the replacement of both front brake rotors on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with the 5.0L V8 Coyote engine, including caliper removal, rotor replacement, and proper reassembly with torque specifications.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL SYSTEM: Brake system failure can result in loss of vehicle control, collision, serious injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight and positioned on solid frame contact points.
⚠️Do not allow brake calipers to hang by the brake hose. This can damage the hose and cause brake failure.
⚠Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and skin. Wear gloves and eye protection. Clean spills immediately.
⚠Brake dust may contain asbestos or other harmful materials. Do not blow off with compressed air. Use brake cleaner in a well-ventilated area.
⚠Rotors may have sharp edges. Handle with care to avoid cuts.
ℹ️This procedure does NOT require brake bleeding if brake hoses remain connected. Do not open brake hydraulic connections unless necessary.
ℹ️New rotors often have a protective coating that must be cleaned off with brake cleaner before installation.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Torque wrench (10-350 Nm range)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Socket set (including 13mm, 18mm, 21mm)Essential
C-clamp or brake caliper piston toolEssential
Wire or bungee cord for caliper supportEssential
Turkey baster or brake fluid evacuator
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
Brake cleaner
Anti-seize compound
Threadlocker (medium strength)
Silicone brake grease
Parts
- Front brake rotor × 2 — OEM Ford BR3Z-1125-A or equivalent
- Rotor set screws × 2 — W710189-S300 or equivalent
Fluids
- Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid ground. Place transmission in Park (automatic) or 1st gear (manual). Apply parking brake firmly.
- Check master cylinder brake fluid level. Use turkey baster to remove approximately 1/4 of fluid from reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground.
- Lift front of vehicle with floor jack at designated front jacking point and secure with jack stands under frame rails behind front wheels. Verify vehicle stability before working underneath.
- Remove both front wheels completely and set aside.
- Spray caliper slide pin bolts and rotor set screws with penetrating oil if present. Allow to soak while preparing tools.
Procedure
- 1Compress brake caliper pistonBefore removing the caliper, use a C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool to slowly compress the caliper piston(s) back into the caliper bore. Position the clamp against the back of the caliper body and the outer brake pad. Compress slowly to avoid damaging the piston seal. This step makes caliper removal easier and is necessary for rotor clearance.
- 2Remove caliper slide pin boltsLocate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the rear side of the caliper (towards the engine). Using an 18mm socket or wrench, remove both slide pin bolts completely. Note: These are NOT the larger caliper bracket bolts. The slide pins allow the caliper to float and are typically located at the top and bottom of the caliper on the inboard side.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 3Support and remove caliperCarefully lift the caliper assembly off the rotor and brake pads. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose. Support the caliper by hanging it from the suspension or frame using a wire hanger or bungee cord. Position it so there is no tension on the brake hose. The brake pads may come off with the caliper or remain in the bracket; keep track of their orientation for reinstallation.⚠️Never allow caliper to hang unsupported by brake hose. Hose damage can cause brake failure.
- 4Remove caliper bracket boltsWith the caliper supported out of the way, locate the two large caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle/spindle. These are typically 18mm or 21mm hex bolts located behind where the rotor sits. Use a breaker bar if necessary as these are torqued to 127 Nm. Remove both bolts completely and remove the caliper bracket assembly. If brake pads are still in the bracket, remove and inspect them.Torque specBracket Bolts127 Nm (94 lb-ft)
- 5Remove rotor set screws and rotorLocate the rotor set screw(s) on the face of the rotor hat (typically 1-2 Phillips or T25 Torx screws). Remove the set screw(s). If seized, use penetrating oil and an impact driver. Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub. If the rotor is stuck due to corrosion, tap the rear surface (not the friction surface) with a rubber mallet or use the threaded holes (if present) to press it off with bolts. Do not hammer the friction surface or use excessive force that could damage wheel bearings.⚠Do not strike rotor friction surfaces. Use rubber mallet on rotor hat or backing plate only.Torque specRotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 6Clean hub surfaceWith the rotor removed, clean the wheel hub mounting surface thoroughly with a wire brush to remove all rust, corrosion, and debris. The hub face must be clean and flat for the new rotor to seat properly. Any debris or corrosion will cause rotor runout and brake pulsation. Clean the wheel studs as well.
- 7Prepare and install new rotorRemove new rotor from packaging. Clean both friction surfaces thoroughly with brake cleaner to remove protective oil coating. Allow to dry completely. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the hub face (not the rotor friction surfaces). Slide the new rotor onto the hub, aligning the holes. The rotor should sit flush against the hub with no gap. Install new rotor set screw(s) and torque to specification.⚠Never apply oil, grease, or anti-seize to rotor friction surfaces. This will contaminate brake pads and cause brake failure.Torque specRotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 8Reinstall caliper bracketPosition the caliper bracket back onto the steering knuckle/spindle. Install both caliper bracket bolts and hand-thread them to prevent cross-threading. Torque both bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern using a torque wrench. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to bolt threads before installation if recommended by manufacturer.Torque specBracket Bolts127 Nm (94 lb-ft)
- 9Install brake padsIf brake pads were removed, inspect them for wear, cracks, or contamination. Replace if worn below 3mm or damaged. Install brake pad shims and anti-rattle clips if equipped. Slide brake pads into the caliper bracket with friction material facing the rotor. Ensure pads move freely in the bracket. Apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease to pad slide points and caliper bracket contact areas (not friction surfaces).
- 10Reinstall caliper assemblyRemove the caliper from its temporary support. Ensure the brake hose was not twisted or damaged. Position the caliper over the brake pads and rotor. The caliper piston should already be compressed from Step 1. Align the caliper slide pin bolt holes. Clean slide pins and apply silicone brake grease to the pin shafts (not threads). Install both slide pin bolts and hand-tighten. Torque slide pin bolts to specification.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 11Repeat for opposite sideRepeat steps 1-10 for the other front wheel to replace the second front rotor. Always replace rotors in pairs (both front or both rear) to maintain balanced braking performance.
- 12Reinstall wheelsClean wheel mounting surfaces on the rotor hat. Position wheel onto studs and hand-thread all lug nuts. Lower vehicle until tire just touches ground (still supported primarily by jack stands). Torque lug nuts to specification in a star/crisscross pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Perform final torque check on lug nuts in star pattern with vehicle on ground.ℹ️Always torque lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even wheel seating and prevent warping.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Check brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir. Add Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid as necessary to bring level to MAX mark. Do not overfill.
- Pump brake pedal slowly several times until pedal feels firm. The pedal should feel normal with no sponginess. If pedal feels soft or goes to floor, there may be air in the system or a problem with installation.
- Inspect all work areas for any forgotten tools, parts, or loose connections before test drive.
Verification
- With vehicle still in Park/gear and parking brake applied, start engine and firmly apply brake pedal. Pedal should feel solid with normal travel. If pedal is soft, spongy, or sinks to floor, DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE. Recheck all connections and bleed brakes if necessary.
- Check for any brake fluid leaks around calipers, hoses, and master cylinder. Wipe clean and inspect after pedal application.
- Perform a slow-speed test drive in a safe area (parking lot) at 5-10 mph. Apply brakes gently and verify vehicle stops straight without pulling to either side. You may hear light scraping as pads seat to new rotors.
- Perform a series of moderate stops from 30-40 mph in a safe area to begin bedding-in the new rotors and pads. Avoid hard braking for the first 200-300 miles to allow proper pad transfer and rotor seasoning.
- After test drive, recheck wheel lug nut torque and brake fluid level. Inspect for any leaks or unusual conditions.
- Expect some brake noise and slight vibration for the first few stops as pads and rotors mate. This should diminish quickly. If vibration persists or increases, rotors may have excessive runout or be improperly installed.