steering
Tie Rod Assembly
for 2017 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
14
Steps
12
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the outer tie rod end assembly on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8 engine, including proper alignment reference marking and torque specifications.
Warnings
⚠This vehicle uses electric power steering; no fluid service is required during this repair.
⚠Replacing tie rod ends will affect wheel alignment. A professional alignment is required after completion.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use proper jack stands rated for vehicle weight.
ℹ️Mark tie rod thread position before removal to approximate alignment and enable vehicle to be driven to alignment shop.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
19mm and 21mm combination wrenchesEssential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
Ball joint separator (alternative)
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
Thread locker (medium strength)
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Tape measure or stringEssential
Marker or paint penEssential
Diagonal cutters or pliersEssential
New cotter pinsEssential
Breaker bar
Parts
- Outer tie rod end assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or Motorcraft MEOE-68
- Cotter pin (tie rod end) × 1 — 1/8 inch diameter
- Thread locker (optional) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is on ground
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking point
- Support vehicle with jack stands under frame rails
- Remove wheel completely
- Spray tie rod end nut, castle nut, and jam nut threads with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Mark tie rod position for alignment referenceBefore loosening any fasteners, use a paint pen or marker to mark the exact position where the outer tie rod end threads into the inner tie rod. Count and record the number of exposed threads visible beyond the jam nut. Measure the total length from the center of the tie rod end ball stud to the inner tie rod boot for reference. This ensures approximate toe setting is maintained.
- 2Remove cotter pin from tie rod end castle nutLocate the cotter pin securing the tie rod end castle nut at the steering knuckle. Using diagonal cutters or pliers, straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin and pull it out completely. Discard the old cotter pin as it cannot be reused.
- 3Loosen and remove tie rod end castle nutUsing a 21mm wrench or socket, loosen the castle nut securing the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Remove the nut completely but leave it threaded on by 2-3 turns to protect the ball stud threads during separation. Do not remove the nut entirely yet.⚠Leaving the nut partially threaded prevents the tie rod from dropping suddenly when the taper releases.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 4Separate tie rod end from steering knucklePosition the tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork between the steering knuckle and tie rod end taper. Strike the tool firmly with a hammer to break the taper fit. Alternatively, use a ball joint separator tool if available. Once the taper breaks free, remove the castle nut completely and pull the tie rod end out of the knuckle.⚠Avoid striking the tie rod end ball stud directly as this can damage the threads or internal components.
- 5Loosen tie rod jam nutLocate the jam nut (lock nut) that secures the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod shaft. Using a 19mm wrench, loosen the jam nut but do not remove it completely. Back it off several turns to allow the outer tie rod end to unthread.Torque specTie Rod Lock Nut85 Nm (63 lb-ft)
- 6Remove outer tie rod endWhile holding the jam nut in place with one wrench, unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod by turning it counterclockwise. Count the number of full rotations required to remove it and record this number. This, combined with your earlier marking, will help restore approximate alignment. Remove the jam nut from the threads once the tie rod end is off.
- 7Clean threads and inspect inner tie rodUse a wire brush to clean the threads on the inner tie rod shaft. Inspect the inner tie rod boot for tears, cracks, or leaks. Check that the inner tie rod is tight to the steering rack and shows no play. If the boot is damaged or inner tie rod is loose, those components must be replaced before proceeding.ℹ️A damaged inner tie rod boot will allow contamination into the steering rack, causing premature wear and potential failure.
- 8Install new outer tie rod endThread the jam nut onto the inner tie rod shaft first, positioning it several turns down. Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod shaft clockwise, counting the same number of rotations noted during removal. Align the tie rod end with your reference marks to achieve approximate original position. The jam nut should be positioned against the back of the outer tie rod end housing.
- 9Install tie rod end into steering knuckleInsert the tie rod end ball stud into the taper hole in the steering knuckle. Ensure the stud is fully seated in the taper. Install the new castle nut and hand-tighten it onto the ball stud threads. Verify the tie rod end boot is not twisted or pinched.
- 10Torque tie rod end castle nut and install cotter pinUsing a torque wrench, tighten the castle nut to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Check that one of the castle nut slots aligns with the hole in the ball stud. If not aligned, tighten the nut further (do not loosen) until the next slot aligns with the hole. Maximum additional tightening should not exceed 1/6 turn. Insert a new cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends to secure it.⚠Never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole. Only tighten further if needed.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 11Tighten jam nut (preliminary)While holding the outer tie rod end to prevent it from turning, tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end housing using a 19mm wrench. Torque to 85 Nm (63 lb-ft). Note that this torque specification is final only after professional wheel alignment is completed.ℹ️The jam nut must be re-torqued after alignment is performed, as the alignment technician will adjust toe by rotating the tie rod end.Torque specTie Rod Lock Nut85 Nm (63 lb-ft)
- 12Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleMount the wheel onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but weight is still supported by jack stands. Using a torque wrench in a star pattern, torque the lug nuts to 169 Nm (125 lb-ft). Remove jack stands and lower vehicle completely to the ground. Perform final torque check on lug nuts.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts169 Nm (125 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are properly torqued to specification
- Verify cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent removal
- Check that tie rod end boot is not twisted, pinched, or damaged
- Confirm steering moves freely through full range of motion with no binding
Verification
- Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify steering response
- Check that steering wheel returns to center after turns
- Listen for any unusual noises from the tie rod area during turning
- Schedule professional wheel alignment immediately - vehicle toe setting is only approximate and will cause tire wear if not properly aligned
- After alignment is complete, verify jam nut is torqued to 85 Nm (63 lb-ft)
- Inspect for any fluid leaks around steering components after test drive