drivetrain

Wheel Bearing - Press-In Front

for 2017 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · RWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.6 h
Tools
15
Steps
15
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with the 5.0L V8 Coyote engine, including hub removal, bearing press-out/press-in, and reinstallation.

Warnings

⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands rated for its weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
Hydraulic press work requires proper training and technique. Improperly supported components can become projectiles causing serious injury.
Do not reuse the old bearing or inner seal. Always install new components.
ℹ️This procedure requires a hydraulic press and specialized bearing tools not available to most home mechanics. Consider having a machine shop perform the press work if equipment is unavailable.

Tools required

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
  2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
  3. Raise front of vehicle and secure on jack stands at frame contact points
  4. Remove front wheel on side being serviced
  5. Spray all fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove brake caliper and rotor
    Remove the two brake caliper slide bolts and carefully hang the caliper from the frame using a wire or bungee cord to avoid stress on the brake hose. Do not let caliper hang by the hose. Remove the rotor by pulling it off the hub. If stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap it loose from behind.
  2. 2
    Remove ABS wheel speed sensor
    Locate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the back of the steering knuckle. Disconnect the electrical connector, then remove the sensor mounting bolt. Carefully pull the sensor straight out of the knuckle bore. Clean the sensor tip and bore with brake cleaner.
    Torque spec
    ABS Sensor Bolt14 Nm (10 lb-ft)
  3. 3
    Remove axle nut
    Have an assistant apply the brake pedal or use a pry bar against the wheel studs to prevent hub rotation. If equipped with a cotter pin, remove and discard it. If equipped with a staked nut, use a chisel to unstake. Use a breaker bar and appropriate socket to remove the axle nut. This nut is torqued to 250 Nm and will require significant force. Discard the old nut if staked type.
    Axle nut is extremely tight. Ensure socket is fully seated to prevent rounding.
    Torque spec
    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Separate tie rod end and lower ball joint
    Remove the tie rod end castle nut and discard the cotter pin. Use a pickle fork or tie rod separator to disconnect the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut, then use a pry bar to spread the knuckle clamp and separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Take care not to damage the ball joint boot.
  5. 5
    Remove hub mounting bolts and knuckle assembly
    From the rear of the knuckle, locate the four hub mounting bolts. Remove all four bolts completely. The hub assembly should now be free within the knuckle but may be stuck due to corrosion. If necessary, tap the hub from behind using a brass drift. Once loosened, remove the entire knuckle/hub assembly from the vehicle by pulling it off the axle shaft and maneuvering around the suspension components.
    Hub assembly is heavy and may release suddenly when freed. Support it with both hands.
    Torque spec
    Hub Bolts127 Nm (94 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Separate hub from knuckle
    Place the knuckle assembly on a workbench with the hub facing up. Using the hydraulic press with appropriate adapters, press the hub down and out of the bearing inner race. The hub should separate from the knuckle, leaving the bearing races and outer cage still installed in the knuckle bore. Set the hub aside and inspect for damage or wear.
  7. 7
    Remove inner bearing race from hub
    The inner bearing race will likely still be pressed onto the hub shaft. Install a bearing separator (splitter) around the race, position the hub in the press with proper support underneath, and press the inner race off the hub. Take care not to damage the hub surface during this operation.
  8. 8
    Press out old bearing from knuckle
    Place the knuckle in the press with the outer side facing down, supported on the outer edges of the knuckle (not on the bearing). Using a bearing race driver or appropriate sized socket slightly smaller than the bearing outer diameter, press the bearing assembly out from the inside of the knuckle. Remove the inner seal from the back side of the knuckle and discard.
    Ensure knuckle is properly supported on outer edges only. Pressing against thin sections can crack the knuckle.
  9. 9
    Clean and inspect knuckle bore
    Thoroughly clean the bearing bore in the knuckle using brake cleaner and a wire brush. Remove all old grease, rust, and debris. Inspect the bore for scoring, cracks, or damage. Check that the bore is clean and smooth with no high spots or burrs that would prevent proper seating of the new bearing.
  10. 10
    Press in new bearing
    Place the knuckle in the press with the outer side facing up. Position the new bearing squarely in the bore, ensuring it is not cocked or tilted. Using a bearing race driver that contacts only the outer race of the bearing (never press on the inner race), carefully press the bearing into the knuckle until it bottoms against the shoulder. Verify the bearing is fully seated and flush with the knuckle surface.
    ⚠️Only apply press force to the outer bearing race. Pressing on the inner race, cage, or rolling elements will destroy the bearing.
  11. 11
    Install new inner seal
    Apply a light coating of clean grease to the new inner seal lip. Position the seal at the rear opening of the knuckle with the lip facing inward toward the bearing. Using a seal driver or large socket that matches the seal outer diameter, carefully press or drive the seal into position until it seats flush with the knuckle housing.
  12. 12
    Press hub into new bearing
    Clean the hub mating surface and apply a thin film of clean grease to the axle splines. Position the knuckle in the press with the outer side down. Insert the hub shaft into the bearing from the outer side. Using a press adapter that contacts only the inner bearing race (through the hub center), press the hub into the bearing until fully seated. The hub should sit flush and square in the bearing with no gaps or misalignment.
  13. 13
    Reinstall knuckle assembly to vehicle
    Maneuver the hub/knuckle assembly back into position, sliding the axle shaft through the hub. Connect the lower ball joint to the knuckle and install the pinch bolt (do not torque yet). Reconnect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle and install a new castle nut and cotter pin (do not torque yet). Thread the axle nut onto the axle shaft by hand but do not tighten yet.
  14. 14
    Install hub bolts and ABS sensor
    From the rear of the knuckle, install the four hub mounting bolts. Tighten them in a criss-cross pattern to prevent cocking the hub. Torque all four bolts to specification. Clean the ABS sensor bore and sensor tip with brake cleaner, then install the sensor and torque the mounting bolt to specification. Reconnect the ABS sensor electrical connector.
    Torque spec
    Hub Bolts127 Nm (94 lb-ft)
    ABS Sensor Bolt14 Nm (10 lb-ft)
  15. 15
    Torque axle nut and complete assembly
    Have an assistant apply the brake pedal or use a pry bar against the wheel studs. Torque the axle nut to specification. If equipped with a staked nut, use a chisel and hammer to stake the nut collar into the axle shaft groove. If equipped with a castellated nut, align the slots with the cotter pin hole and install a new cotter pin, bending the ends to secure. Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper. Install the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
    Torque spec
    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Torque all suspension fasteners (ball joint, tie rod) to manufacturer specifications using a separate service procedure
  2. Lower vehicle until tire just contacts ground and torque wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern
  3. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands
  4. Perform a final torque check on wheel lug nuts after lowering completely

Verification

  • Raise vehicle slightly and check for wheel play by grasping tire at 12 and 6 o'clock positions and attempting to rock it - there should be no perceptible movement
  • Rotate wheel by hand to verify smooth rotation with no grinding, binding, or unusual noise
  • Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area and verify no vibration, noise, or ABS warning lights
  • Perform a visual inspection after test drive to ensure all fasteners remain tight and no leaks are present
  • After 50-100 miles, re-torque wheel lug nuts and verify axle nut security

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

🔧Stuck on this wheel bearing - press-in front? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Ford within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
⚠ STILL BEHIND THE PAYWALL
The 2017 Ford F-150 repair data is incomplete because no one has sponsored it yet. For $99, we generate the full step-by-step procedures, then fact-check them with a second AI pass and your expert review. Your name on every procedure, permanently.
The same data would cost $169/mo from Mitchell1 or $30/year from ALLDATAdiy — and you'd be renting access, not freeing it. Sponsor once, free forever.
Sponsor the Ford F-150 — $99 →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 10 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →