This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear brake caliper on a 2021-2024 Ford F-150 with 3.5L EcoBoost V6 engine, including brake fluid line disconnection, caliper removal, and system bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Copper crush washers for brake line banjo bolt × 2 — Typically sold with caliper or separate
• Brake caliper mounting hardware kit (if not included) × 1 — Pins, clips, boots as needed

Fluids

• Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, firm surface and engage parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks in front of both front wheels
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
4. Lift rear of vehicle using proper jacking points per owner's manual and secure with jack stands
5. Remove rear wheel completely on the side being serviced
6. Locate master cylinder reservoir under hood and check fluid level - mark current level with tape or note position
7. Place brake fluid catch pan under work area to capture spilled fluid
8. Verify you have the correct replacement caliper for the side being serviced (driver or passenger)
9. Inspect new caliper for correct configuration and ensure bleeder screw is present and functional

Procedure

1. 1

   Prepare brake fluid reservoir
   Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Remove the reservoir cap carefully. Use a turkey baster or brake fluid syringe to remove approximately 2-3 ounces of brake fluid from the reservoir to prevent overflow when the caliper piston is compressed later. Dispose of old fluid properly - do not reuse. Leave reservoir cap off for now to allow fluid movement during caliper removal.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Locate the brake hose banjo bolt connecting the flexible brake hose to the rear caliper. Position the catch pan directly under the connection point. Using a brake line wrench (flare nut wrench) to prevent rounding, loosen and remove the banjo bolt while supporting the caliper. Brake fluid will drain - this is normal. Remove the banjo bolt completely and separate the brake hose from the caliper. Note the position of the copper crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting). Immediately plug or cap the brake hose end to minimize fluid loss and contamination. Discard the old copper crush washers - they must be replaced.
   ⚠Brake fluid will spill during this step. Ensure catch pan is properly positioned and wipe any spills immediately to prevent paint damage.
3. 3

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper mounting bolts on the rear side of the caliper assembly that secure the caliper to the bracket. These are typically 13mm or 14mm bolts accessed from behind. Using a socket and ratchet, remove both caliper mounting bolts completely. If bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak before removal. Keep these bolts if they are in good condition - inspect threads carefully for damage or corrosion.
   ⚠Support the caliper weight as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling and damaging brake components or causing injury.
4. 4

   Remove old caliper
   With both mounting bolts removed, carefully slide the caliper off the brake rotor and bracket. The caliper may be stuck due to corrosion - gently work it free if necessary. Since the brake line is already disconnected, remove the caliper completely from the vehicle. Inspect the old caliper for signs of failure (leaking seals, damaged piston boot, frozen piston). Place the old caliper in the catch pan to collect residual fluid.
5. 5

   Inspect and clean mounting surfaces
   With the caliper removed, inspect the caliper bracket and mounting points on the vehicle. Use a wire brush to clean the caliper bracket mounting surfaces, removing any rust, debris, or old brake dust. Inspect the brake rotor surface for excessive wear, scoring, or heat damage - if rotor is damaged, it should be replaced while the caliper is off. Check that caliper slider pins (if separate from caliper) move freely and are properly lubricated. Clean the mounting bolt holes in the bracket.
6. 6

   Prepare new caliper for installation
   Remove the new caliper from packaging and verify it matches the old caliper configuration. Remove any protective caps or plugs from the brake line port and bleeder screw. Verify the caliper piston is fully retracted - if not, carefully compress it using a C-clamp or caliper compression tool before installation. Ensure the bleeder screw is closed (snug but not overtightened). If the caliper came with new mounting hardware (pins, clips, boots), install per manufacturer instructions.
7. 7

   Install new caliper onto bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align it with the mounting holes on the caliper bracket. Ensure the caliper is oriented correctly with the bleeder screw positioned at the top (highest point) for proper bleeding. Slide the caliper fully onto the bracket, ensuring it seats properly against the mounting surface.
8. 8

   Install and torque caliper mounting bolts
   Apply blue thread locker to the threads of the caliper mounting bolts as specified. Insert both mounting bolts and thread them by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a socket and torque wrench, tighten both bolts to the specified torque in an alternating pattern (tighten one partially, then the other, then torque each to final spec). This ensures even caliper seating.
   ⚠Use thread locker as specified. Over-torquing can strip threads in the bracket; under-torquing can cause caliper movement and brake failure.
9. 9

   Connect brake hose with new crush washers
   Remove the plug or cap from the brake hose. Install one NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo bolt, then insert the banjo bolt through the brake hose banjo fitting. Position the brake hose connection to the caliper inlet port, ensuring proper alignment and that the hose is not twisted or kinked. Install the second NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo bolt on the caliper side. Thread the banjo bolt into the caliper by hand to ensure proper thread engagement.
   ⚠️NEW copper crush washers are mandatory. Reusing old washers will result in brake fluid leaks and potential brake system failure.
10. 10

    Torque brake hose banjo bolt
    Using a brake line wrench and torque wrench, tighten the brake hose banjo bolt to the specified torque. Ensure the brake hose is positioned without twisting or tension that could cause premature wear or restriction. The hose should have slight slack and not be pulled tight in any steering or suspension position.
    ⚠Do not over-torque the banjo bolt as this can strip the caliper threads or damage the copper washers, causing leaks.
11. 11

    Bleed rear brake caliper
    Attach a clear hose to the caliper bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid. Have a helper sit in the driver's seat. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Instruct helper to slowly pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold firm pressure. While helper maintains pressure, open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn using a box wrench. Brake fluid and air will flow into the hose. Close the bleeder screw before the helper releases the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the fluid stream - typically 5-10 cycles. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir frequently during bleeding to prevent it from running dry.
    ⚠️NEVER allow the master cylinder reservoir to run empty during bleeding. This will introduce air into the ABS system requiring dealer-level equipment to bleed properly.
    ⚠The bleeder screw is brass and easily damaged. Do not over-torque when closing - 10 Nm (7 lb-ft) is sufficient.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final brake system check
    After bleeding is complete and bleeder screw is tightened to spec, remove the bleeding hose. Wipe all brake fluid residue from the caliper and surrounding area. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line and reinstall the reservoir cap. With the engine off, pump the brake pedal several times - it should feel firm with normal travel. If the pedal feels soft or spongy, additional bleeding is required. Inspect all brake line connections at the caliper for any signs of fluid leakage.
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Clean the wheel hub surface and wheel mounting surface of any debris or corrosion. Position the wheel onto the hub and thread all lug nuts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a socket, snug all lug nuts in a star pattern but do not torque yet. Carefully raise the vehicle slightly to remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground with partial weight (tire should not spin freely but vehicle is still supported by jack). Using a torque wrench, torque all lug nuts to specification in a star pattern to ensure even wheel seating.
14. 14

    Final torque and test
    Lower the vehicle completely to the ground and remove the jack. Perform a final torque check on all wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the specified torque. Start the engine and pump the brake pedal several times - the pedal should be firm. With the engine running, check for any brake fluid leaks around the caliper banjo bolt connection and mounting area. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before returning to normal driving.
    ⚠️Before driving at normal speeds, test brakes in a safe, controlled environment at low speed to verify proper operation and firm pedal feel.

Reassembly

1. Ensure all brake line connections are torqued to specification with new copper washers installed
2. Verify bleeder screw is closed and torqued properly after bleeding procedure
3. Confirm master cylinder reservoir is filled to MAX line with DOT 4 LV brake fluid and cap is installed
4. Double-check that wheel lug nuts are torqued to specification in a star pattern
5. Inspect work area for tools or parts left under vehicle before test drive

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal several times - pedal should be firm and consistent, not sinking or spongy
• With engine running, apply firm brake pressure and hold for 30 seconds - pedal should not slowly sink
• Visually inspect the new caliper area for any brake fluid leaks around the banjo bolt connection and caliper body
• Check master cylinder reservoir level - should be at MAX line with no visible air bubbles in fluid
• Perform a low-speed brake test (5-10 mph) in a safe area - vehicle should stop straight with no pulling to either side
• Verify parking brake still functions properly and holds vehicle on an incline
• After test drive, recheck all connections for leaks and verify wheel lug nut torque
• Monitor brake pedal feel for the first 50-100 miles - any change in pedal firmness requires immediate inspection

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