steering
Rack and Pinion Boots
for 2021 Honda Accord 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
10
Steps
10
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace the protective rubber boots on the steering rack and pinion assembly to prevent contamination and maintain proper lubrication of the steering gear.
Warnings
⚠This vehicle uses electric power steering (EPS) with no hydraulic fluid. Do not attempt to add power steering fluid.
⚠Ensure vehicle is properly supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
ℹ️Wheels must be in straight-ahead position before beginning work to maintain steering alignment reference.
⚠Inspect inner tie rod threads and ball joints during boot replacement. Replace any worn components now to avoid repeating this job.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
Socket set (10mm-19mm)Essential
Tie rod separator or pickle forkEssential
Steering rack boot clamp pliers or boot clamp toolEssential
Breaker bar
Wire brush
Grease gun with lithium greaseEssential
Pry bar
PliersEssential
Parts
- Steering rack boot kit (left) × 1 — Use OEM Honda part or quality aftermarket
- Steering rack boot kit (right) × 1 — Use OEM Honda part or quality aftermarket
- Boot clamps × 4 — Included in boot kit or use OEM specification
- Cotter pin (if removing tie rod ends) × 2 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and set wheels to straight-ahead position
- Set parking brake and place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at proper lift points
- Remove both front wheels
- Mark steering wheel position with tape to maintain center reference
Procedure
- 1Remove front wheel and access steering componentsWith the vehicle safely supported, remove the front wheels completely. Turn the steering wheel (or have an assistant do so) to gain better access to the tie rod end on the side you're working on first. Work on one side at a time to maintain structural reference.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
- 2Remove tie rod end from knuckle (if necessary)If boot replacement requires tie rod end removal for your access method: Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut. Using a 17mm socket, loosen the tie rod end castle nut but do not remove completely. Use a tie rod separator tool to break the taper between the tie rod end and steering knuckle. Remove the castle nut and separate the tie rod end from the knuckle. Mark the tie rod position with paint or counting threads for reassembly reference.⚠Do not strike the tie rod end threads directly with a hammer. Use a proper separator tool to avoid damaging threads.ℹ️Count exposed threads or mark tie rod position before removal to maintain toe alignment during reassembly.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 3Access and remove outer boot clampLocate the outer boot clamp (toward the tie rod end). If using crimp-style clamps, use diagonal cutters to carefully cut the clamp off without damaging the rack housing. If using worm-gear clamps, loosen with appropriate screwdriver or pliers. Slide the clamp away from the boot.
- 4Remove inner boot clampLocate the inner boot clamp on the steering rack bellows housing. This may require reaching behind the rack or working from underneath. Cut or loosen the inner clamp using the same method as the outer clamp. Take care not to scratch or damage the rack housing during clamp removal.
- 5Remove old boot and inspect componentsSlide the old boot off the tie rod and rack housing. Clean the rack housing and tie rod shaft with a wire brush and degreaser. Thoroughly inspect the inner tie rod threads, ball joint, and rack housing for wear, scoring, or damage. Check for grease leakage from the rack itself. If the rack housing shows fluid or excessive grease loss, the rack and pinion may need replacement, not just boots.⚠Torn boots often allow water and dirt contamination. Carefully inspect all metal surfaces for rust or pitting that could indicate internal damage.
- 6Install new boot with greaseApply a generous amount of lithium-based steering grease to the inner tie rod joint and rack housing area as specified in the boot kit instructions (typically 1-2 oz per side). Slide the new boot onto the tie rod end first, then stretch it over the rack housing bellows section. Ensure the boot is properly seated in both grooves without twisting or kinking.ℹ️The boot must sit fully in both the inner and outer grooves. A partially seated boot will tear quickly and allow contamination.
- 7Install and secure boot clampsPosition the inner clamp in the groove closest to the rack housing. Using boot clamp pliers or the appropriate tool for your clamp type, secure the inner clamp tightly. Ensure the clamp ears are fully closed and the boot cannot rotate. Repeat for the outer clamp at the tie rod end. Both clamps must be tight enough to prevent boot movement but not so tight they cut into the rubber.ℹ️Crimp-style clamps require a specific tool and cannot be reused. Worm-gear clamps can be reused if in good condition.
- 8Reinstall tie rod end to knuckle (if removed)If the tie rod end was removed, align it with the steering knuckle taper and insert the stud. Thread the castle nut onto the tie rod end and torque to specification. The castle nut slots must align with the cotter pin hole - if not aligned at proper torque, tighten further (never loosen) until the next slot aligns. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.⚠Always use a new cotter pin. Never reuse old cotter pins as they may be weakened.ℹ️Castle nut may be tightened beyond specified torque for cotter pin alignment, but never loosened below spec.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 9Repeat procedure for opposite sideRepeat steps 1 through 8 for the opposite side steering rack boot. Both boots should be replaced together even if only one appears damaged, as they typically wear at similar rates.
- 10Reinstall wheels and lower vehicleReinstall both front wheels, threading lug nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to finger-tight. Lower the vehicle until wheels just touch the ground but suspension is not fully loaded. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify both boots are properly seated without twists or kinks
- Check that all clamps are secure and boots do not rotate on rack housing
- Ensure tie rod ends are properly torqued with new cotter pins installed
- Verify steering wheel returns to center position matching original tape mark
Verification
- Start engine and turn steering wheel full lock to lock while stationary - listen for any unusual noises
- Visually inspect both boots for proper seating and no tears or displacement during steering movement
- Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify steering response is normal with no pulling or binding
- Check for any grease leakage around boot clamps after test drive
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment if tie rod ends were removed or if toe measurement was disturbed