steering
Tie Rod End - Outer
for 2021 Honda Accord 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
11
Steps
10
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers replacement of the outer tie rod end on a 2018-2024 Honda Accord 1.5L Turbo, including removal, installation, and preparation for wheel alignment.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Replacing tie rod ends will alter wheel alignment. A professional alignment is required after this repair to prevent tire wear and handling issues.
⚠Do not damage the steering knuckle threads or tie rod threads during separation. Damaged threads will require additional costly repairs.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (30-150 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
19mm socket and ratchetEssential
17mm wrenchEssential
21mm socket (wheel lug nuts)Essential
Hammer
Wire brush
Penetrating lubricant
Marking tool or paint penEssential
Pliers for cotter pin removalEssential
Parts
- Outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Cotter pin × 1 — 2mm x 25mm or equivalent
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen wheel lug nuts on the affected side while vehicle is on the ground
- Raise vehicle with floor jack at appropriate jacking point and support with jack stands under frame rails
- Remove wheel completely
- Spray tie rod end castle nut and tie rod lock nut with penetrating lubricant and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Mark tie rod positionUsing a marking tool or paint pen, mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod threads. Count and record the number of visible threads between the lock nut and the outer tie rod end. This provides a reference for reinstallation to approximate the previous alignment setting.
- 2Remove cotter pin and castle nutUsing pliers, straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut. Discard the old cotter pin. Using a 19mm socket, remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud. Do not reuse this nut if damaged or if threads show wear.
- 3Separate tie rod end from steering knuckleUsing a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork, separate the tie rod end ball joint from the steering knuckle. Position the separator between the tie rod end boot and the knuckle. Strike the separator tool firmly with a hammer or use a threaded separator to apply pressure until the taper releases. Avoid damaging the steering knuckle or ball joint boot if reusing components.⚠The tie rod end will release suddenly under spring tension. Keep hands clear of pinch points between the tie rod and knuckle.
- 4Loosen tie rod lock nutUsing a 17mm wrench, loosen the lock nut securing the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod. Do not remove the lock nut completely yet. Back it off several turns to allow access to the outer tie rod end.
- 5Remove outer tie rod endWhile holding the lock nut in place with a wrench, thread the outer tie rod end counterclockwise off the inner tie rod. Count the number of complete rotations required to remove it. The lock nut will slide off once the outer tie rod is removed. Inspect the inner tie rod threads and clean with a wire brush if needed.
- 6Install new outer tie rod endThread the lock nut onto the new outer tie rod end first, followed by threading the outer tie rod end clockwise onto the inner tie rod threads. Turn the outer tie rod the same number of rotations counted during removal, or thread it on until it aligns with your previously made reference mark. This will provide an approximate starting point for alignment.
- 7Install tie rod end to steering knuckleInsert the tie rod end ball stud into the steering knuckle taper hole. Ensure the stud seats fully into the taper. Thread the castle nut onto the stud by hand, then tighten to specification using a torque wrench. If the cotter pin holes do not align after reaching proper torque, tighten the nut further (up to 1/6 turn additional) until the next castle slot aligns with the cotter pin hole. Never loosen the nut to align the cotter pin hole.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 8Install new cotter pinInsert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and tie rod end stud hole. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castle nut to secure it in place. Ensure the cotter pin cannot work loose during vehicle operation.
- 9Reinstall wheelPlace the wheel back onto the hub and thread lug nuts on by hand. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to seat the wheel, but do not torque fully yet while vehicle is elevated.
- 10Lower vehicle and torque componentsLower the vehicle from jack stands until the wheel contacts the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification. Fully lower the vehicle and remove the jack.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Do NOT torque the tie rod lock nut until after a professional wheel alignment has been performed
- Drive vehicle carefully to alignment shop, keeping speeds moderate and avoiding sudden steering inputs
- After professional alignment is complete, have the technician torque the tie rod lock nut to 64 Nm (48 lb-ft) specification
Verification
- Verify the tie rod end ball stud has no vertical play in the steering knuckle
- Confirm cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent removal
- Check that wheel lug nuts remain tight after initial test drive of 10-15 miles
- Verify wheel alignment has been performed and steering wheel is centered when driving straight
- Confirm tie rod lock nut has been torqued to specification after alignment