1.5L I4 TurboFWDCVTgasturbo
6 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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steering

Tie Rod Assembly

for 2017 Honda Civic 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
14
Steps
12
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the outer tie rod end assembly on a 2016-2021 Honda Civic with 1.5L turbo engine, including proper measurement and torque specifications.

Warnings

Vehicle must be aligned after tie rod replacement. Measurements are temporary only to minimize toe change.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
Do not loosen the inner tie rod connection at the steering rack unless replacing the entire tie rod assembly. This procedure covers outer tie rod end only.
ℹ️This vehicle uses electric power steering with no fluid to maintain or bleed.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
19mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
17mm wrench for tie rod lock nutEssential
19mm wrench for tie rod end castle nutEssential
Torque wrench (30-130 Nm range)Essential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Thread sealant
Tape measure or stringEssential
Marker or paint penEssential
Needle nose pliers for cotter pinEssential
Hammer

Parts

  • Outer tie rod end assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
  • Cotter pin for tie rod end castle nut × 1 — Use OEM specification
  • Tie rod lock nut (if corroded) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
  2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
  3. Loosen wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn before raising vehicle
  4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated lift point
  5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands under frame rails
  6. Remove wheel completely
  7. Spray tie rod end castle nut, lock nut, and threads with penetrating oil if corroded

Procedure

  1. 1
    Measure and mark existing tie rod position
    Before removal, measure the exact distance from the inner tie rod lock nut to the outer tip of the tie rod end using a tape measure or string. Record this measurement. Use a marker or paint pen to mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod threads, marking both the tie rod end and the threaded shaft so you can align them during reassembly. This preserves approximate alignment.
  2. 2
    Remove castle nut cotter pin
    Locate the cotter pin through the castle nut at the steering knuckle connection. Use needle nose pliers to straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin. Pull the cotter pin completely out and discard it. A new cotter pin must be used during reassembly.
  3. 3
    Remove tie rod end castle nut
    Using a 19mm wrench or socket, remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle. Do not reuse this nut if it shows any thread damage. Keep the nut if it will be reused, but a new cotter pin is mandatory.
    Do not strike the tie rod end threads directly as this will damage them and prevent nut installation.
  4. 4
    Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
    Install a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork between the steering knuckle and the tie rod end. Strike the tool with a hammer or use a threaded separator to force the taper free. The tie rod end ball joint will pop out of the knuckle taper. If using a pickle fork, note that it may damage the tie rod end boot, so only use this method if replacing the tie rod end.
    The tie rod end will separate suddenly when the taper breaks free. Keep hands and tools clear of pinch points.
  5. 5
    Loosen tie rod lock nut
    Using a 17mm wrench, loosen the lock nut that secures the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod. Loosen it several turns but do not remove it completely yet. This lock nut sits between the inner and outer tie rod assemblies.
  6. 6
    Remove outer tie rod end
    While holding the inner tie rod steady, unthread the outer tie rod end by rotating it counterclockwise. Count the number of complete turns required to remove it, and note how your alignment marks separate. The lock nut will come off with the tie rod end. Clean the inner tie rod threads with a wire brush to remove any corrosion or debris.
  7. 7
    Prepare new tie rod end
    Thread the lock nut onto the new outer tie rod end with the nut facing toward the tie rod end head (away from the inner tie rod connection). Compare the new tie rod end with the old one to verify correct part. Apply a light coat of thread sealant to the inner tie rod threads if desired, though not mandatory.
  8. 8
    Install new tie rod end to match measurement
    Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod shaft, aligning with the paint marks you made during disassembly. Thread it on the same number of turns you counted during removal, or until the measurement from lock nut to tie rod end tip matches your original measurement. Leave the lock nut loose at this stage.
  9. 9
    Install tie rod end into steering knuckle
    Insert the tie rod end ball stud into the taper hole in the steering knuckle. Ensure the stud seats fully into the taper. Install the castle nut onto the ball stud and thread it on by hand until it contacts the knuckle.
  10. 10
    Torque castle nut and install cotter pin
    Using a torque wrench, tighten the tie rod end castle nut to specification. If the cotter pin holes do not align after reaching proper torque, tighten the nut further (never loosen) until the next castle slot aligns with the hole in the ball stud. Maximum additional tightening should not exceed 60 degrees. Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball stud, then bend the ends of the cotter pin to secure it.
    Never loosen the castle nut to align cotter pin holes. Always tighten to the next slot if needed.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Torque tie rod lock nut
    While holding the outer tie rod end to prevent it from turning, use a 17mm wrench and torque wrench to tighten the lock nut against the inner tie rod to specification. This secures the outer tie rod end position on the inner tie rod threads. Note that final torque should be applied after alignment, but initial torque prevents movement during test drive to alignment shop.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod Lock Nut64 Nm (48 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Position the wheel onto the hub and install all lug nuts by hand. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern until snug. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but the suspension is not loaded. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Wheel installation and torque is covered in the final step
  2. If both tie rod ends were replaced, repeat the entire procedure for the opposite side
  3. Do not consider the lock nut final torque as permanent until after alignment

Verification

  • Verify cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent castle nut loosening
  • Check that tie rod end ball joint has no vertical play in the steering knuckle
  • Test steering lock-to-lock while stationary to ensure full range of motion without binding
  • Schedule a professional wheel alignment immediately - temporary measurements are not a substitute for proper alignment
  • After alignment, verify tie rod lock nut is torqued to specification
  • Test drive vehicle at low speed to verify steering response and listen for any unusual noises
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