drivetrain
CV Axles - Front Pair
for 2021 Honda Civic 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.8 h
Tools
11
Steps
15
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Remove and replace both front CV axles on a 2016-2021 Honda Civic 1.5L Turbo, including hub nut removal, lower ball joint separation, and inner CV joint disconnection from the transmission.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Axle nut must be loosened while vehicle is on the ground with brakes applied. Do not attempt to loosen with wheel suspended.
⚠Transmission fluid will drain when inner CV joints are removed. Have drain pan ready and expect 8-16 oz of fluid loss per side.
ℹ️Ball joint separator tools can damage rubber boots. Inspect boots after separation and replace if torn.
Tools required
32mm axle nut socketEssential
Breaker bar or impact wrenchEssential
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (100-300 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket for ball joint nut
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Pry barEssential
Drain panEssential
Wire or bungee cord for suspension support
Hammer
Punch and hammer for staking axle nutEssential
Parts
- CV axle assembly - driver side × 1 — OEM Honda part number recommended
- CV axle assembly - passenger side × 1 — OEM Honda part number recommended
- Axle nut - driver side × 1 — Use new, self-locking type
- Axle nut - passenger side × 1 — Use new, self-locking type
- Lower ball joint castle nut (if damaged) × 2 — Reuse if threads intact
Fluids
- Honda DW-1 ATF — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- With vehicle on ground and brake applied, use breaker bar to crack loose both 32mm axle nuts approximately 1/4 turn (do not remove completely)
- Lift front of vehicle and secure on jack stands at factory jacking points
- Remove front wheels completely
- Place drain pan under transmission area to catch any fluid spillage
Procedure
- 1Remove axle nut and washerWith vehicle raised and wheel removed, completely remove the 32mm axle nut and washer from the hub. The nut should turn freely now that it was cracked loose on the ground. Discard the old nut as a new one must be installed.
- 2Separate lower ball joint from knuckleRemove the castle nut from the lower ball joint using a 19mm socket. Insert a ball joint separator tool between the lower control arm and steering knuckle. Tighten the separator or strike with a hammer to pop the ball joint taper free. Once separated, support the lower control arm with a wire or bungee to prevent suspension from hanging.⚠Do not strike the ball joint stud directly with a hammer as this can mushroom threads and prevent nut reinstallation.
- 3Push axle out of wheel hubWith the ball joint separated, pull the knuckle assembly outward away from the vehicle. The outer CV joint splines should slide out of the hub bearing. If the axle is stuck, tap the end of the axle shaft with a plastic mallet or use a brass punch. Do not strike the threads.
- 4Remove inner CV joint from transmission - driver sidePosition drain pan under the driver side inner CV joint. Insert a pry bar between the inner CV joint housing and transmission case. Pry with steady force to pop the circlip free from the differential side gear. Pull the entire axle assembly out of the transmission. Transmission fluid will drain out. Plug the transmission opening with a clean rag to minimize fluid loss.⚠Pry only against the CV joint housing, not the axle shaft itself, to avoid damaging the shaft or joint.
- 5Remove inner CV joint from transmission - passenger sideRepeat the removal process for the passenger side axle. Position drain pan, pry the inner CV joint from the transmission with a pry bar until the circlip releases, and remove the axle assembly. Plug the transmission opening with a clean rag.
- 6Inspect differential side gears and sealsWith both axles removed, inspect the transmission side gears for damage or excessive wear. Check the differential seals for leaks or damage. Replace seals if any seepage is present. Wipe the seal area clean before installing new axles.
- 7Install new passenger side axle into transmissionRemove protective cap from new axle if present. Align the inner CV joint splines with the differential side gear. Push the axle straight into the transmission with firm pressure until the circlip clicks into the groove. Tug outward on the axle to verify it is locked in place and will not pull out.ℹ️Ensure the circlip on the new axle is properly seated in its groove before installation. A damaged or missing circlip will allow the axle to pull out during operation.
- 8Install new driver side axle into transmissionRepeat the installation process for the driver side. Align splines, push axle in until circlip clicks, and verify it is locked by pulling outward on the inner joint housing.
- 9Install outer CV joints into wheel hubsGuide the outer CV joint splines into the wheel hub bearing. Push the knuckle inward toward the vehicle while aligning the splines. The axle should slide through the hub. If resistance is encountered, rotate the axle slightly to align splines, then push through completely.
- 10Reconnect lower ball joints to knucklesLift the lower control arm up to the knuckle and align the ball joint stud into the knuckle bore. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut slots and ball joint stud, then bend pin legs to secure.Torque specBall Joint Nut97 Nm (71 lb-ft)
- 11Install axle nut and washerPlace the washer onto the axle shaft, then thread the NEW 32mm axle nut onto the axle. Hand tighten only at this stage. Do not torque yet.
- 12Reinstall wheels and lower vehicleInstall wheels and hand tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower vehicle until wheels just touch the ground but vehicle weight is still on jack stands. This prevents hub from spinning during final axle nut torque.
- 13Torque axle nutsWith vehicle weight partially on wheels to prevent spinning, torque both 32mm axle nuts to specification using a torque wrench. After torquing, stake the nut collar into the axle shaft groove using a punch and hammer. Strike the nut collar in at least two points to deform it into the shaft groove, preventing the nut from loosening.⚠Staking the axle nut is critical for safety. The nut must be permanently deformed into the axle groove to prevent loosening during vehicle operation.Torque specAxle Nut242 Nm (181 lb-ft)
- 14Final wheel installation and torqueFully lower vehicle to the ground and remove jack stands. Torque all wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
- 15Check and top off transmission fluidCheck transmission fluid level using the dipstick or fill plug (depending on transmission type). Add Honda DW-1 ATF as needed to bring level back to the proper mark. Typically 8-16 oz will need to be added to replace fluid lost during axle removal.
Reassembly
- Ensure both axle nuts are properly staked after torquing to prevent loosening
- Verify all suspension components are properly reconnected and torqued
- Check for any transmission fluid leaks around the differential seals after test drive
Verification
- Test drive vehicle and listen for clicking or popping noises from CV joints during turns, which would indicate improper installation or defective parts
- Verify no vibration is present during acceleration, which could indicate improperly seated axle splines in the hub or transmission
- Recheck transmission fluid level after test drive and top off if necessary
- Inspect area under vehicle for any transmission fluid leaks from differential seals
- Verify axle nuts are properly staked and show no signs of loosening