suspension
Ball Joint - Lower
for 2024 Rivian EDV 500 Dual Motor AWD (EDV) · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.9 h
Tools
13
Steps
14
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the lower ball joint on a 2024 Rivian EDV 500 dual motor AWD electric delivery van.
Warnings
⚠️This vehicle uses a high-voltage battery system. Ensure the high-voltage system is powered down and locked out before beginning work.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands.
⚠The EDV 500 has significant curb weight (over 6,000 lbs). Ensure all lifting equipment is rated appropriately.
⚠Ball joint separation tools can cause sudden release. Keep hands and body clear of pinch points.
ℹ️Torque specifications are not currently available in the database. Consult factory service manual or contact Rivian for official torque values before final assembly.
Tools required
Ball joint press kitEssential
Hydraulic floor jackEssential
Jack stands (minimum 3 ton capacity)Essential
Torque wrench (50-250 ft-lb range)Essential
Pickle fork or ball joint separatorEssential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Thread locker (medium strength)Essential
Anti-seize compound
Penetrating oil
Wheel chocksEssential
Parts
- Lower ball joint × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Ball joint boot (if not included with ball joint) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin or castle nut (if applicable) × 1 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Power down the high-voltage system using the vehicle's service mode (consult owner's manual)
- Wait at least 5 minutes after powering down for capacitor discharge
- Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise vehicle with hydraulic jack at designated lift point
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands at frame rails
- Remove wheel and tire assembly completely
- Spray all ball joint fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Disconnect stabilizer linkLocate the stabilizer bar end link connection point at the lower control arm. Remove the nut securing the stabilizer link to the lower control arm. Support the link to prevent it from hanging and potentially damaging the boot. Set fasteners aside for reinstallation.
- 2Support lower control armPosition a hydraulic jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint location. Raise jack just enough to take the weight of the control arm and compress the suspension slightly. This relieves tension on the ball joint and prevents the control arm from dropping suddenly when the ball joint is disconnected.
- 3Remove brake caliperRemove the brake caliper mounting bolts and carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Support the caliper with a wire hanger or bungee cord to prevent strain on the brake hose. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake line. If needed for additional clearance, remove the brake rotor by removing any retaining screws.
- 4Disconnect ABS sensorLocate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the steering knuckle. Disconnect the electrical connector and carefully remove any mounting clips or bolts securing the sensor wire. Move the sensor and wiring out of the work area to prevent damage during ball joint removal.
- 5Remove ball joint castle nutRemove the cotter pin (if equipped) from the ball joint castle nut. Using an appropriate socket, loosen and remove the castle nut securing the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle. Do not fully remove the nut yet if the ball joint is still under tension. Leave it threaded on a few turns to prevent sudden separation.
- 6Separate ball joint from knuckleUsing a pickle fork or ball joint separator tool, insert the tool between the knuckle and control arm at the ball joint taper. Strike the tool firmly with a hammer or use a screw-type separator to break the taper fit. Once the taper breaks free, remove the castle nut completely and separate the ball joint stud from the knuckle. Lower the control arm slightly on the jack to provide clearance.⚠The ball joint may separate suddenly. Keep fingers clear of pinch points and control the separation with the hydraulic jack.
- 7Mark control arm orientationBefore removing the ball joint from the control arm, mark the orientation and position of the ball joint relative to the control arm with paint or a scribe. This ensures proper alignment during reinstallation. Take photos if needed for reference.
- 8Remove ball joint from control armDepending on the design, the ball joint may be bolted or pressed into the control arm. If bolted, remove all mounting bolts and extract the ball joint. If pressed, use a ball joint press kit with the appropriate adapters to press the old ball joint out of the control arm bore. Apply steady pressure and ensure the tool is properly aligned to prevent damage to the control arm.⚠Ensure the ball joint press tool is correctly positioned to avoid damaging the control arm bore or causing tool slippage.
- 9Clean and inspect control armUse a wire brush to thoroughly clean the ball joint mounting area in the control arm. Remove all rust, dirt, and old debris. Inspect the bore for damage, cracks, or excessive wear. If the control arm shows damage or the bore is wallowed out, the control arm must be replaced rather than installing a new ball joint.
- 10Install new ball jointPosition the new ball joint according to the orientation marks made during removal. If pressed design, use the ball joint press kit to press the new joint squarely into the control arm bore until it is fully seated. Apply even pressure and ensure alignment throughout the pressing process. If bolted design, align the ball joint and install all mounting bolts with medium-strength thread locker. Reference the factory service manual for specific torque values.
- 11Install ball joint stud into knuckleRaise the lower control arm using the hydraulic jack to align the ball joint stud with the hole in the steering knuckle. Insert the ball joint stud through the knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to manufacturer specification. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut slots and ball joint stud, bending the ends to secure. If the cotter pin holes do not align, tighten the nut slightly more (never loosen to align).
- 12Reinstall brake componentsIf removed, reinstall the brake rotor ensuring it is properly seated on the hub. Reinstall the brake caliper over the rotor and secure with the caliper mounting bolts to manufacturer specification. Reconnect the ABS sensor to the knuckle and secure all wiring clips. Reconnect the electrical connector.
- 13Reconnect stabilizer linkReconnect the stabilizer bar end link to the lower control arm. Install the mounting nut and tighten to specification. Ensure the link rotates freely and the boot is not damaged or twisted.
- 14Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and tire assembly. Thread all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern but do not fully tighten yet. Remove the hydraulic jack from under the control arm. Raise the vehicle slightly and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
Reassembly
- All components should be reinstalled in reverse order of removal
- Apply anti-seize compound to all fastener threads unless otherwise specified
- Since factory torque specifications are not available in the database, consult the Rivian factory service manual for all torque values before final tightening
- Ensure all electrical connectors are fully seated and secured with locking tabs engaged
Verification
- Re-enable the high-voltage system and verify no warning lights are present on the dashboard
- Perform a visual inspection of all connections and ensure no tools or parts were left in the wheel well
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area and verify no unusual noises, vibrations, or pulling
- Check that steering response is normal and consistent in both directions
- Have the vehicle's front-end alignment checked and adjusted by a qualified technician within 50 miles of completion, as replacing suspension components affects wheel alignment
- After 50-100 miles, re-torque all fasteners to specification and inspect for any looseness or abnormal wear