Replace the outer tie rod end on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Dual Motor. Because the Cybertruck uses steer-by-wire, post-repair alignment and steering calibration via Tesla service tooling is required to ensure correct toe and yoke-to-wheel correlation.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (manufacturer-specified for Cybertruck) × 1 — OEM Tesla Cybertruck outer tie rod end
• Castle nut cotter pin (new) × 1 — Standard cotter pin sized to castle nut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery. NOTE: Cybertruck uses a 48V architecture (not 12V) — verify the correct battery location and use 48V-appropriate procedures per Tesla Service Manual.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are 800V high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Controls → Service → Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Chock the rear wheels. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle and support on rated jack stands. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
9. Turn the steering (with low-voltage power off, the yoke will not move the wheels — rotate the wheels manually if needed) to gain access to the tie rod end.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, mark the inner tie rod threads at the lock nut with a paint pen and measure the exposed thread length. This preserves toe alignment as closely as possible until the truck can be aligned.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut
   Apply penetrating oil to the lock nut where the outer tie rod end threads onto the inner tie rod. Hold the inner tie rod with a wrench on its flats (do NOT grip the rubber boot or tube body) and break the lock nut loose. Back it off the outer tie rod end by a few turns but do not remove yet.
   ⚠Do not rotate the inner tie rod — twisting it can damage the steering rack internals on a steer-by-wire system.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end ball stud. Discard it. Remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Use a press-style ball joint separator to push the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle-fork separators if you intend to reuse the boot on any related component, and never strike the knuckle or the stainless body. If the stud spins, apply downward pressure on the separator while breaking it loose.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the wheel speed sensor harness or brake hose.
5. 5

   Count and remove the outer tie rod end
   Counting the exact number of turns, unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Record the count — this gives a starting point to preserve toe until alignment.
6. 6

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns recorded in Step 5, until the marked thread reference and lock nut position match the original. Snug the lock nut by hand for now — final torque is set after alignment.
7. 7

   Reinstall the ball stud into the knuckle
   Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification. If the castle nut slots do not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to retain.
   ⚠️Always tighten the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — never back off.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Preliminary lock nut torque (pre-alignment)
   Snug the tie rod lock nut against the outer tie rod end. Final torque is applied AFTER alignment is performed; do not fully torque yet.
9. 9

   Reinstall wheel
   Reinstall the front wheel. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern, then lower the truck until the tire just contacts the ground and torque to specification in a star pattern.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Lower the vehicle fully and remove jack stands.
2. Reconnect the low-voltage battery per Tesla Service Manual procedure for the 48V system.
3. Exit Jack Mode and allow the air suspension to self-level before driving.
4. Drive only at very low speed (or load onto a flatbed) to an alignment shop equipped to align Cybertruck — toe must be set before any normal road use.
5. After alignment is complete, torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to specification.
6. Have a Tesla-certified technician (or Tesla mobile service) perform any required steer-by-wire calibration / steering angle reset. The yoke-to-wheel relationship is software-defined and may need to be relearned.

Verification

• Confirm a NEW cotter pin is installed through the castle nut and the legs are properly bent.
• Visually verify the lock nut is fully seated against the outer tie rod end and torqued to spec AFTER alignment.
• Have a 4-wheel alignment performed and verify front toe is within Tesla specification.
• Confirm steer-by-wire calibration has been completed: with the truck on the ground, yoke centered should produce wheels straight ahead. Any offset indicates calibration is required.
• Test drive at low speed in a safe area first — listen for clunks over bumps and confirm the vehicle tracks straight with no pull or wandering.
• Recheck the cotter pin and castle nut after the first 100 miles of driving.

More procedures for this vehicle