Replace the rear trailing arm bushing on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Dual Motor AWD. The Cybertruck uses an independent rear suspension with air springs; the trailing arm locates the rear knuckle longitudinally and its bushing is a high-load wear item.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Trailing arm bushing (OEM replacement) × 1 — Tesla Cybertruck rear trailing arm bushing — refer to Tesla Service Manual / EPC for current part number
• Trailing arm pivot bolt and hardware (replace if torque-to-yield or as specified by Tesla) × 1 — OEM trailing arm pivot fastener kit

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery. NOTE: Cybertruck uses a 48V LV system — locate and disconnect per Tesla Service Manual; do not assume 12V procedure.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. On the touchscreen, enter Service Mode and place the air suspension in Jack/Transport Mode to prevent auto-leveling.
7. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while tires are still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle using only Tesla-specified lift points — avoid the HV battery case and air spring reservoirs.
9. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side and set aside.
10. Inspect for orange HV cables, harnesses, and air suspension lines in the work area; route tools clear of all of them.
11. Mark the orientation of the trailing arm and any cam/eccentric bolts with a paint marker before disassembly to aid in pre-alignment.

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the rear suspension
   Place a transmission/suspension jack under the rear lower control arm or knuckle on the affected side to support suspension load. Do not compress the air spring. Take up just enough load to neutralize the trailing arm bushing.
   ⚠Do not jack against the air spring, air line, or HV battery enclosure.
2. 2

   Disconnect components blocking access
   Remove or reposition any underbody shielding, wheel liner sections, or brackets needed to access both ends of the trailing arm. Carefully unclip any wiring harness retainers (ABS sensor harness, brake wear sensor) routed along the trailing arm so they are not strained when the arm is removed.
3. 3

   Mark and remove the outboard trailing arm fastener
   Paint-mark the outboard trailing arm bolt and any eccentric/cam washers for reference. Remove the outboard fastener that secures the trailing arm to the rear knuckle/hub carrier. Support the arm so it does not fall.
   ℹ️If an eccentric alignment cam is present, mark its rotational position precisely — this preserves rough toe alignment until a final alignment is performed.
4. 4

   Remove the inboard trailing arm pivot bolt
   Mark the inboard pivot bolt position. Remove the inboard pivot bolt that passes through the trailing arm bushing and the body/subframe bracket. Penetrating oil may be required. Retain hardware for inspection; replace any fastener Tesla specifies as single-use.
5. 5

   Remove the trailing arm from the vehicle
   Carefully maneuver the trailing arm down and out of the vehicle. Inspect the arm, mounting bracket, and surrounding structure for cracks, corrosion, or elongated bolt holes. Note bushing orientation (any voids/arrows) before removal.
6. 6

   Press out the worn bushing
   Using a hydraulic press with bushing cups sized to the trailing arm eye, press the old bushing out in the manufacturer-specified direction. If on-vehicle pressing is required (i.e., bushing is housed in the chassis bracket rather than the arm), use a manufacturer-approved on-car bushing press tool — do not use a torch or impact methods that can damage the chassis or stainless structure.
   ⚠Do not apply heat near the HV battery, air suspension lines, or stainless body structure.
7. 7

   Inspect bore and prepare for installation
   Clean the bushing bore thoroughly. Inspect for ovaling, cracks, or corrosion. Light surface corrosion may be cleaned with a non-aggressive abrasive; do not enlarge the bore. Apply the bushing lubricant specified by the bushing manufacturer (typically a soapy water solution or supplied paste — do NOT use petroleum grease on rubber bushings).
8. 8

   Press in the new bushing
   Align the new bushing per any orientation marks (voids/arrows) and press it in squarely using the proper cups until it is fully seated to the manufacturer-specified depth. Verify it is centered and not cocked.
   ⚠An incorrectly oriented voided bushing will fail prematurely and can cause rear-end clunking or alignment drift.
9. 9

   Reinstall the trailing arm
   Position the trailing arm back into the inboard bracket and install the pivot bolt finger-tight. Reconnect the outboard end to the knuckle and install that fastener finger-tight. Re-align any eccentric/cam to the paint marks made earlier.
10. 10

    Reattach harnesses and shielding
    Reinstall any wiring harness clips, ABS/brake sensor routing, and underbody shielding that was removed. Verify nothing is pinched or contacting moving suspension components or air lines.
11. 11

    Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so full curb weight is on the wheels before final-torquing the trailing arm fasteners.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque the trailing arm fasteners at ride height
    With the vehicle's full weight on the wheels and air suspension at normal ride height, final-torque the trailing arm pivot bolts to OEM specification. The verified Control Arm Bolt spec applies where the trailing arm is treated as a control arm fastener; for any fastener not listed, torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
    ⚠️Torquing these fasteners with the suspension hanging will pre-load the new bushing and cause premature failure and ride-height issues.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Confirm all underbody shielding, harness clips, and fasteners removed for access are reinstalled.
2. Final-torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified spec.
3. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode on the touchscreen so the air suspension resumes normal operation.
4. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery and verify no fault messages appear at startup.

Verification

• With the vehicle running and air suspension active, cycle ride height (Low / Standard / High via the touchscreen if available) and confirm normal operation with no error messages.
• Inspect the new bushing and trailing arm fasteners visually after a short test drive — check for movement, witness marks, or fluid contamination.
• Test drive on smooth and rough pavement; listen for clunks or knocks from the rear suspension over bumps and during throttle on/off transitions.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed on a rack capable of supporting Cybertruck weight and air suspension; rear toe and thrust angle must be reset after any trailing arm service.
• Because steer-by-wire decouples the yoke from the wheels, do not rely on steering feel to assess rear alignment — confirm via measured alignment readings.
• While the vehicle is being serviced, this is a good time to verify other Tesla service intervals: brake fluid (every 2 years), cabin air filter (every 2 years), drive unit gear oil (Tesla now recommends inspection at 12,500 mi then every 25,000–50,000 mi), and battery coolant (4 years / 50,000 mi inspection).

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