Wheel Bearing - Press-In Front

Replace a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Dual Motor. The Cybertruck uses a hub assembly with a press-fit bearing; the knuckle is typically removed from the vehicle and the bearing pressed out using a hydraulic press or in-vehicle bearing puller kit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing (press-in type, OEM specification for Cybertruck Dual Motor) × 1 — Tesla Cybertruck front wheel bearing — verify with VIN at parts counter
• Axle nut (single-use) and/or new cotter pin × 1 — OEM single-use fastener
• Hub bolts (if specified single-use by Tesla) × 3 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery (Cybertruck uses 48V LV — NOT 12V). Locate per Tesla Service Manual; insulate the disconnected terminal.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are 800V and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enter Service Mode / Jack Mode on the touchscreen to disable air suspension self-leveling before lifting.
7. Loosen wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. While the vehicle is on the ground, have an assistant hold the brake and break the axle nut loose (it is at very high torque). Do NOT break the axle nut loose with the vehicle in the air.
9. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on rated jack stands. Verify the air suspension has fully bled down and is not attempting to re-level.
10. Remove the front wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the brake caliper bracket bolts and suspend the caliper from the upper control arm or coil spring with a hanger — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the brake rotor. If the rotor is seized to the hub, use the threaded jack-off holes (if present) rather than striking it.
   ⚠Do not pry against the stainless body or air suspension lines.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS sensor and harness
   Unbolt the ABS wheel speed sensor from the knuckle and disconnect its harness clip. Move the sensor clear of the work area. Inspect the sensor tip for damage — bearing failure often contaminates it.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove axle nut and separate halfshaft from hub
   Remove the cotter pin (or grind off the stake) and remove the axle nut. Push the outer CV stub back through the hub splines using a soft-faced punch. If seized, use a hub puller — do NOT hammer the axle threads. Support the halfshaft so it does not hang from the inner CV.
   ⚠Damage to the outer CV threads will require halfshaft replacement.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Disconnect steering tie rod and suspension links as needed
   Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle using a proper tie rod separator. Depending on access, also separate the upper ball joint or unbolt the upper control arm at the knuckle to allow the knuckle to swing out far enough to remove the hub or to fit the bearing press tool. Note alignment marks if present.
   ⚠Steer-by-wire system: do not power-cycle the vehicle with the tie rod disconnected.
5. 5

   Remove hub assembly from knuckle
   From the rear of the knuckle, remove the hub mounting bolts. Withdraw the hub flange. If the hub is corroded into the knuckle bore, use a hub puller — do not pry against the stainless body or strike the knuckle with a steel hammer.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the knuckle (if pressing off-vehicle)
   If using a shop press, remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt or strut-to-knuckle bolts as required to free the knuckle, and transfer it to the bench. If using an in-vehicle bearing press kit, the knuckle can remain installed.
7. 7

   Press out the old bearing
   Remove any retaining snap ring (if equipped). Using a hydraulic press or proper in-vehicle bearing tool, press the old bearing out of the knuckle bore in the manufacturer-specified direction. If the inner race remains on the hub, remove it with a bearing splitter or cut-off wheel (carefully, without scoring the hub). Clean and inspect the knuckle bore for scoring, ovality, or corrosion — replace the knuckle if damaged.
   ⚠Never reuse a press-in bearing once it has been removed from the bore — even if it appears intact.
8. 8

   Press in the new bearing
   Lightly lubricate the knuckle bore with the manufacturer-specified assembly lube. Press the new bearing in squarely using a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race — never the inner race or seal. Press until fully seated against the shoulder or until the snap ring can be installed. Reinstall the snap ring if equipped.
   ⚠️Pressing on the inner race will destroy the new bearing immediately and may not be detectable until failure on the road.
9. 9

   Press hub flange into new bearing
   Support the inner race of the new bearing on the press (critical) and press the hub flange through the bearing inner race. Failure to support the inner race will push the bearing apart. Verify the hub spins freely with no binding or roughness.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the knuckle to the strut/lower ball joint if it was removed. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
2. Reinstall the hub assembly to the knuckle and torque the hub bolts in a star pattern.
3. Reconnect the upper control arm / ball joint. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
4. Insert the outer CV stub through the hub splines. Install a NEW axle nut and torque to spec, then install a new cotter pin or stake the nut per its original style.
5. Reconnect the tie rod end to the knuckle. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Install a new cotter pin if the original used one.
6. Reinstall the ABS sensor and route the harness in its original clips.
7. Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper. Caliper bracket bolts: torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
8. Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts.
9. Lower the vehicle to the ground and final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
10. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery.
11. Exit Jack Mode / Service Mode and allow the air suspension to re-level.

Verification

• Pump the brake pedal until firm before moving the vehicle (caliper pistons may have been displaced).
• With the vehicle running, check the touchscreen for ABS, traction control, steer-by-wire, or air suspension faults. Clear any stored DTCs.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for bearing noise (growl that changes with cornering load) and feeling for vibration.
• Recheck axle nut torque and lug nut torque after the first ~50 miles.
• If any steering, suspension, or alignment-affecting fasteners were disturbed (tie rod, ball joint, control arm), have a 4-wheel alignment performed — Cybertruck steer-by-wire calibration relies on accurate alignment data.
• Note: while in there, inspect the CV boot, brake pads, and rotor condition. Tesla's 'no scheduled maintenance' claim does not include brake fluid (replace every 2 years) or tire rotation (every 6,250 mi) — check service history.

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