suspension
Upper Control Arm
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
12
Steps
11
Replacement of an upper control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. The Model 3 uses a multi-link front suspension with multiple upper links — confirm which link is being replaced before ordering parts.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange high-voltage cable. The HV battery floor pack runs the length of the vehicle — keep jack stands and tools clear of the pack.
⚠️Use only Tesla-designated lift points. Lifting on the HV battery case or pinch welds will cause severe damage and may compromise pack integrity.
⚠Model 3 uses a stamped steel + aluminum hybrid body. Do not strike suspension brackets or body structure with a hammer — use a ball joint separator.
⚠Final torque on control arm pivot bolts MUST be applied with the vehicle's weight on the wheels (suspension at ride height) to avoid premature bushing failure.
⚠A wheel alignment is required after any control arm replacement. Drive carefully to the alignment shop.
ℹ️If the vehicle has a 2024 lithium 12V under the floor, follow the architecture-specific disconnect procedure rather than the rear-seat AGM procedure.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands (rated for EV curb weight ~4050 lb)Essential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucksEssential
Metric socket set (10mm–22mm)Essential
Metric combination wrenchesEssential
Calibrated torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Breaker bar
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie-rod pullerEssential
Hex/Allen key set (for holding ball stud shafts)Essential
Cotter pin pliers / needle-nose pliersEssential
Insulated gloves (for 12V disconnect)
Wheel chocksEssential
Drive-on ramps or alignment-friendly stands (for final torque under load)
Parts
- Upper control arm assembly (front, side-specific) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model 3 front upper control arm — confirm left/right and which of the upper links
- Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse
- Control arm pivot bolts/nuts (if single-use) × 1 — Replace per Tesla Service Manual if specified as single-use TTY hardware
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/Li-ion) low-voltage battery. On most Model 3s this is behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024+ units have a Li-ion 12V under the floor — see architecture notes.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place 'Service Mode' through the touchscreen prior to 12V disconnect if you wish to disable air suspension features (N/A on Model 3 — coil only) and prevent vehicle wake events.
- Loosen the wheel lug nuts on the affected side(s) before lifting.
- Lift the vehicle at Tesla-designated front jack points and support on rated jack stands. Confirm stability before going under the vehicle.
- Remove the front wheel(s) on the side(s) being serviced.
- Inspect surrounding components (tie rod, lower control arm, strut, sway bar link) for wear while access is open.
Procedure
- 1Identify the correct upper control armThe Model 3 front suspension uses multiple upper links. Verify visually which link is being replaced (forward upper vs. rearward upper) and confirm the replacement part matches before disassembly. Photograph the original orientation.
- 2Support the knuckle/hub assemblyPlace a jack or stand under the lower control arm or steering knuckle to support the assembly once the upper ball joint is released. This prevents the knuckle from falling and stressing the brake hose, ABS line, and remaining suspension links.⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wiring.
- 3Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and nutStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the ball joint stud. Discard — never reuse. Loosen and remove the ball joint nut. Use a hex/Allen key in the stud end if it spins.
- 4Separate the ball joint from the knuckleUse a proper ball joint separator tool to break the taper. Do NOT strike the knuckle or body with a hammer — Model 3 uses aluminum suspension components that can be damaged. Once free, swing the upper arm clear of the knuckle.⚠Aluminum components — do not impact with hammers or pry against body panels.
- 5Disconnect any sensor or wiring routed on the armIf wheel speed sensor, ride height sensor (where applicable), or wiring clips are routed on or near the upper arm, release them carefully. Note routing for reassembly.
- 6Remove the upper control arm pivot bolt(s)Support the arm and remove the inboard pivot bolt(s) that attach the upper arm to the body/subframe bracket. Note any alignment cams or markings before removal and mark their position with a paint pen.ℹ️If the bolts have eccentric/cam washers used for camber adjustment, mark their position to preserve approximate alignment.
- 7Remove the upper control armWithdraw the arm from the vehicle. Compare side-by-side with the new arm to confirm correct geometry, ball joint orientation, and bushing style.
- 8Install the new upper control armPosition the new arm into the body/subframe bracket and insert the pivot bolt(s) hand-tight. Reseat alignment cams to the marked position. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle.
- 9Torque the upper ball joint nut and install new cotter pinTorque the ball joint nut to specification. If the castellation does not align with the stud hole, tighten further (never loosen) to align. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to retain.⚠️A missing or reused cotter pin can allow the ball joint to separate at speed. Always use new.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 10Snug pivot bolts (do not final-torque yet)Snug the inboard pivot bolt(s) but do not apply final torque. Final torque must occur with the suspension loaded at ride height to avoid pre-loading the bushing.
- 11Reattach wiring/sensor routingReseat any clips, brake hose brackets, or wiring removed earlier. Confirm no contact with moving suspension at full lock or full droop.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Lower the vehicle so full weight rests on the wheels at normal ride height.
- With the vehicle loaded, final-torque the upper control arm pivot bolt(s) to specification — refer to torqueRefs: Control Arm Bolts.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim removed for access.
- Allow the vehicle to wake; verify the touchscreen powers up normally with no new alerts.
- Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary on a smooth surface and listen/look for any contact or binding.
Verification
- Confirm no suspension or ABS warnings on the touchscreen after a short test drive.
- Inspect the cotter pin is fully seated and bent over on the ball joint stud.
- Verify torque was applied at ride height by checking the witness mark on the pivot bolt.
- Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks, then at highway speed checking for steering pull or vibration.
- Have a four-wheel alignment performed — REQUIRED after any control arm replacement on Model 3. Provide alignment shop with Tesla factory specs.
- Re-check lug nut torque (Wheel Lug Nuts spec) after approximately 50–100 miles.
- While the vehicle is on the lift, this is a good opportunity to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and inspect tire wear (rotation due every ~6,250 mi).