Replace the rear control arm bushing on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. The rear suspension uses multiple control arms (toe, camber, trailing, upper, lower) — this procedure covers bushing replacement on a single rear control arm with the arm removed from the vehicle.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear control arm bushing (manufacturer-specified for Model 3 rear suspension — match to specific arm being serviced) × 1 — OEM Tesla rear control arm bushing — verify by arm type (trailing/lateral/toe/camber)
• Replacement control arm bolts/nuts if single-use (verify against Tesla Service Manual) × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V (Li-ion) battery is typically located behind the right rear seat back panel or under the floor — refer to architecture notes and Tesla Service Manual to confirm location for this build. Disconnect negative first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the front wheels.
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle using ONLY the manufacturer-designated jack points (use Tesla puck adapters — never lift on the battery pack edges or pinch welds).
9. Support the vehicle on jack stands rated for the load.
10. Remove the rear wheel on the side being serviced.
11. Inspect the area for any orange HV cabling routed near the rear suspension. If present and accessible, do not disturb.

Procedure

1. 1

   Identify the specific control arm
   Confirm which rear control arm bushing is being replaced (upper, lower, trailing, toe link, or camber link). The Model 3 rear multi-link uses several arms — the correct procedure, bushing orientation, and bolt access differ for each. Reference the Tesla Service Manual diagram for your specific arm.
2. 2

   Mark alignment cam positions
   If the arm uses eccentric/cam alignment bolts (common on rear toe and camber links), use a paint marker to mark the cam position relative to the subframe before loosening. This aids approximate reassembly but does NOT replace a post-job alignment.
3. 3

   Support the rear knuckle/hub
   Place a jack with a wood block under the rear knuckle/hub assembly to support its weight. This prevents the half-shaft and other arms from being stressed when the target arm is removed.
   ⚠Do not use the floor pan or HV battery enclosure as a support point.
4. 4

   Disconnect adjacent components if needed
   Depending on which arm is being serviced, you may need to disconnect the sway bar end link to gain clearance. Hold the link shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut. Do not damage the boot.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the control arm fasteners
   Remove the inboard (subframe-side) and outboard (knuckle-side) bolts/nuts securing the control arm. Apply penetrating oil if corroded. Do not strike aluminum components with a steel hammer — use a brass drift or rubber mallet if persuasion is needed.
   ⚠Some bolts may be single-use TTY fasteners — replace per Tesla Service Manual specification.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the control arm from the vehicle
   Carefully maneuver the control arm out of the subframe and knuckle brackets. Take note of the bushing orientation, sleeve direction, and any indexing marks before removal.
7. 7

   Inspect mating surfaces and arm
   On the bench, inspect the control arm for cracks, corrosion, or deformation. Inspect the bushing bores for ovaling or damage. If the arm itself is damaged, replace the entire arm — do not attempt to straighten suspension components.
8. 8

   Press out the old bushing
   Using a hydraulic press or a control arm bushing removal tool kit with the correct cup/driver sizes, press the old bushing out of the arm. Support the arm squarely. Do not heat aluminum arms with an open flame to free the bushing — this anneals and weakens the metal.
   ⚠Wear eye protection — bushing rubber and metal sleeves can fragment under press load.
9. 9

   Clean the bushing bore
   Wire-brush and clean the bushing bore in the control arm. Remove any corrosion or debris. A light film of rubber-safe assembly lubricant (e.g., silicone-based) may be applied to the outer sleeve of the new bushing per the bushing manufacturer's instructions — never use petroleum grease on rubber bushings.
10. 10

    Press in the new bushing
    Align the new bushing per any indexing marks (some bushings are voided/directional and MUST be installed in a specific orientation). Press squarely into the bore until fully seated. Verify the bushing is centered and not cocked.
    ⚠Incorrect bushing clocking on rear toe/camber arms will cause premature failure and abnormal tire wear.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the control arm into the subframe and knuckle brackets. Hand-thread all bolts before tightening any.
2. If the arm uses eccentric cam bolts, set them to your previously marked positions to allow the vehicle to be driven to the alignment shop.
3. Snug all control arm fasteners but DO NOT final-torque yet.
4. Reconnect the sway bar end link if it was disconnected. Torque the Sway Bar Link nut to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft) while holding the shaft with an Allen key.
5. Reinstall the rear wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts.
6. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at normal ride height (tires on ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment lift).
7. With the suspension loaded, final-torque the Control Arm Bolts to 165 Nm (122 lb-ft).
8. Torque the Wheel Lug Nuts to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
9. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (positive first, then negative).
10. Close all doors and allow the vehicle to wake and self-check. Clear any chassis-related alerts on the touchscreen.

Verification

• Visually confirm the new bushing is fully seated and correctly oriented.
• Confirm no orange HV cabling was disturbed during the procedure.
• Check the touchscreen for any suspension, ABS, or stability control alerts after the vehicle wakes.
• Perform a low-speed test drive (parking lot) and listen for clunks, knocks, or abnormal handling. Then road test at moderate speed.
• REQUIRED: Take the vehicle for a four-wheel alignment. Rear toe and camber are adjustable on Model 3 and will be off after this work. Do not skip — Model 3 is sensitive to alignment and will chew rear tires quickly.
• Tesla recommends rear tire rotation every 6,250 miles due to high torque and vehicle weight — note the current odometer for the next rotation.
• Re-inspect the control arm fasteners after the first 100-200 miles for any signs of loosening or movement.

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