Wheel Bearing - Press-In Rear

Replacement of a press-in rear wheel bearing on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. The rear hub assembly must be removed from the knuckle and the bearing pressed out and a new one pressed in, ideally with the knuckle on a press for best results.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear wheel bearing (press-in type, OEM-spec) × 1 — Tesla Model 3 rear bearing — match to VIN
• New axle/spindle nut × 1 — OEM rear axle nut (single-use)
• Cotter pin (if axle nut is castellated style) × 1 — OEM cotter pin
• Hub-to-knuckle bolts (if specified single-use) × 4 — OEM specification — replace if manufacturer requires

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V (Li-ion) is typically located under the rear floor area or behind the right rear seat panel — refer to architecture notes and confirm before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. The HV pack runs the full length of the floor directly under your work zone.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in 'Transport Mode' / 'Jack Mode' via the touchscreen BEFORE lifting, then disconnect 12V. This prevents the air/leveling and parking systems from fighting the lift (note: Model 3 LR is coil sprung, but Jack Mode also disables wake/movement events).
7. Loosen the rear lug nuts and the axle nut while the wheel is still on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands. Remove the rear wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove axle nut and free the halfshaft
   With the vehicle securely supported, remove the previously-loosened rear axle nut and discard it (single-use). If a cotter pin or stake is present, remove it first. The halfshaft splines may need to be tapped inward slightly with a brass drift to free them from the hub — do not strike with a steel hammer.
   ⚠Do not let the halfshaft hang by the inner CV joint. Support it with wire or a bungee once freed.
2. 2

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Unbolt the rear brake caliper bracket from the knuckle. Suspend the caliper from the coil spring or subframe with a hanger — do not stress the brake hose or the integrated parking brake actuator wiring. Remove the brake rotor (you may need to back off the parking brake shoes via the adjuster if the rotor is stuck).
   ⚠The rear caliper houses the electric parking brake motor. Do not disconnect or pull on its wiring harness.
3. 3

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Locate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the knuckle. Remove its retaining bolt and gently pull the sensor straight out. Unclip the harness from any retainers along the suspension arm. Set the sensor aside where it cannot be stepped on or contaminated.
   ℹ️If the sensor is seized in the bore, work it free with penetrating oil — do not pry against the encoder face.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate halfshaft from hub
   Push the halfshaft out of the hub splines. If tight, use a hub puller or carefully tap the shaft inward with a brass drift on the threaded end (a sacrificial old nut threaded flush helps protect the threads). Swing the halfshaft aside and support it.
5. 5

   Remove the hub/knuckle to access the bearing
   For a press-in bearing, the knuckle should come to the press. Disconnect the necessary suspension links from the knuckle (typically the upper control arm/camber link, toe link, and lower control arm pinch or ball joint per the manufacturer-specified procedure). Mark camber/toe eccentrics before loosening so alignment can be approximated on reinstall. Separate the knuckle from the suspension and remove it from the vehicle.
   ⚠Aluminum suspension components — do not pry between mating aluminum surfaces with a steel chisel. A four-wheel alignment is required after this job regardless of marking eccentrics.
6. 6

   Remove the hub flange from the knuckle
   Unbolt the hub flange from the rear of the knuckle (typically four bolts). The hub may need to be pressed out of the bearing inner race. If the inner race stays on the hub flange, remove it with a bearing splitter and small press or a cutting wheel (carefully, without damaging the hub).
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Press out the old bearing
   Remove any retaining clip(s) from the bearing bore in the knuckle. Support the knuckle squarely on the press bed with the bearing OD shoulder clear. Using a driver matched to the bearing OD, press the old bearing out in the direction specified by the bearing's shoulder in the knuckle. Inspect the bore for scoring, ovality, or cracks — replace the knuckle if damaged.
   ⚠Never press on the inner race of the new or old bearing when removing/installing through the knuckle bore. Always press on the outer race.
8. 8

   Press in the new bearing
   Clean the bore. Lightly lubricate it with a thin film of clean assembly oil (no grease in the bore). Start the new bearing squarely by hand, then press it in using a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race until it is fully seated against the shoulder. Reinstall any retaining clip. Do not hammer the bearing in.
   ℹ️If the bearing has a magnetic encoder side (one seal looks dull/black, the other shiny), the encoder side typically faces the ABS sensor. Verify orientation before pressing.
9. 9

   Press the hub flange into the new bearing
   Support the bearing's INNER race on the press (not the outer race or the knuckle) and press the hub flange in until fully seated. Failure to support the inner race will destroy the new bearing. Reinstall the hub-to-knuckle bolts.
   ⚠️Pressing the hub through the bearing while supporting the outer race will cause immediate internal damage and bearing failure within a few hundred miles.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the knuckle to the vehicle, reconnecting all suspension links. Torque each fastener to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Align eccentric marks made during disassembly.
2. Insert the halfshaft splines into the hub. Install a NEW axle nut finger-tight for now.
3. Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor and torque the ABS Sensor Bolt to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). Reroute the harness in its original clips.
4. Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper bracket. Torque caliper bracket bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
5. Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (loaded enough to prevent rotation).
6. Torque the axle nut to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft) and install a new cotter pin or stake the nut as applicable.
7. Torque the wheel lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
8. Reconnect the 12V battery. Close hood/trunk panels.

Verification

• With ignition on, confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control warnings are present on the touchscreen. A persistent ABS fault usually indicates incorrect bearing encoder orientation or a damaged sensor.
• Drive the vehicle slowly in a safe area; ABS self-tests at low speed and any speed-sensor mismatch will throw a fault almost immediately.
• At 30-60 km/h on a smooth road, listen for any hum, growl, or rumble that changes with cornering load — a properly installed bearing will be silent.
• Re-check the axle nut torque and cotter pin/stake after the first short test drive.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed — required any time rear suspension links were disturbed on Model 3.
• While the wheels are off, take the opportunity to inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends DOT 4 brake fluid replacement every 2 years) and verify rear drive unit gear oil service interval (Tesla now recommends initial service ~12,500 mi then every 25,000-50,000 mi — not 'lifetime').

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

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