brakes
Brake Hose - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
9
Steps
7
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replacement of a rear brake hose on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. The hose connects the hard line at the body bracket to the rear caliper; this job requires brake bleeding afterward.
Warnings
⚠️Even though this is a non-HV job, treat all orange cabling as lethal. Do not route tools or your body near orange HV harnesses under the vehicle.
⚠Brake fluid will strip paint and damage Tesla's body panels and underhood plastics. Wipe spills immediately and rinse with water.
⚠Model 3 uses a stamped steel + aluminum hybrid body. Use Tesla-approved jack pad adapters at the designated lift points only — incorrect jacking will deform rocker pinch welds or cast structures.
⚠Tesla specifies DOT 4 brake fluid. Some legacy data lists DOT 3 — confirm with the door jamb/owner's manual and use DOT 4.
ℹ️Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If the fluid is due, perform a full flush while the system is open.
Tools required
Metric socket setEssential
Metric line/flare wrench setEssential
Torque wrench (5-100 Nm range)Essential
Floor jack and jack stands (with manufacturer-specified jack pad adapters for Model 3)Essential
Brake bleeder kit (vacuum or pressure type)Essential
Brake fluid catch containerEssential
Lint-free shop ragsEssential
Brake cleaner
Hose clamp / line plug to cap open hard line
Parts
- Rear brake hose (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model 3 LR AWD) × 1 — Tesla OEM rear brake hose — verify side-specific (LH/RH)
- Copper sealing washers for banjo fitting × 2 — Match OEM banjo bolt size — typically 2 per hose
Fluids
- DOT 4 brake fluid (per Tesla Model 3 specification — do NOT use DOT 3 despite legacy database entries) — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V is located behind the right rear seat back panel (some 2024+ builds use a lithium 12V under the floor — verify before disconnecting).
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Enable Service Mode through the touchscreen if available, or otherwise place the vehicle in Tow/Transport configuration before lifting (this prevents the vehicle from attempting to apply the electronic parking brake during service).
- Loosen the rear lug nuts on the affected side while the wheel is still on the ground.
- Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified rear jacking point using a Tesla-approved puck adapter, and support on jack stands.
- Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
- Place a drain pan beneath the work area to catch brake fluid.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and clean fittingsWipe the banjo fitting at the caliper and the hard-line-to-hose junction at the body bracket clean with a lint-free rag and brake cleaner. Inspect for corrosion before applying wrenches; corroded fittings should be soaked with penetrant before disassembly to avoid rounding.
- 2Minimize fluid lossTop off the brake fluid reservoir, then either clamp the flexible hose with a brake-line-safe hose clamp upstream of the work area, or be prepared to cap the hard line immediately after disconnection to limit reservoir drain-down.⚠Do not let the master cylinder run dry — it complicates bleeding significantly on Model 3 and may require a scan tool procedure for the iBooster/ABS module.
- 3Disconnect the hard line at the body bracketUsing a line/flare wrench, hold the brake hose hex on the hose end and loosen the hard-line tube nut. Separate the fitting and immediately cap or plug the hard line to prevent fluid loss and contamination.⚠Use a line wrench only — open-end wrenches will round the soft tube nut.Torque specLine Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
- 4Release the hose from the chassis bracketRemove the retaining clip securing the hose end to the body-side bracket, then withdraw the hose end from the bracket. Set the clip aside for reuse if undamaged; replace if deformed.
- 5Remove intermediate hose bracket (if equipped)If the rear brake hose is secured to a mid-span bracket on the suspension or subframe, remove the small fastener retaining it. Note routing for reinstallation — incorrect routing can cause hose chafing during suspension travel.Torque specBrake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 6Disconnect banjo bolt at caliperPosition a drain pan under the caliper. Remove the banjo bolt from the rear caliper inlet. Discard both copper sealing washers — they must not be reused. Allow residual fluid to drain.⚠Always replace banjo copper washers. Reusing washers will cause a slow leak that may not appear until after road testing.Torque specBrake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
- 7Remove old hoseWithdraw the old hose from the vehicle, noting orientation, twist, and any clocking features at the caliper end. Compare side-by-side with the replacement hose to confirm correct length and end fittings before installation.
Reassembly
- Position the new hose at the caliper with NEW copper washers on each side of the banjo fitting. Start the banjo bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Torque the banjo bolt to the Brake Hose Banjo Bolt specification. Ensure the hose is clocked so it does not contact suspension components through full travel.
- Seat the upper hose end into the body-side bracket and install the retaining clip fully.
- Start the hard-line tube nut into the hose fitting BY HAND for several turns before applying a wrench, to avoid cross-threading the soft tube nut. Torque to the Line Fittings specification using a line wrench.
- Reinstall the intermediate hose bracket fastener (if applicable) and torque to the Brake Hose Bracket specification.
- Verify the hose has no twists, no contact with the tire, control arms, or driveshaft, and that it does not become taut at full droop.
- Bleed the rear brake circuit on the affected side using a vacuum or pressure bleeder. Continue until clean, bubble-free fluid emerges. Torque the bleeder screw to the Bleeder Screw specification. Note: full flush procedures on Model 3 may require Toolbox/Service Mode to cycle the iBooster — if you cannot achieve a firm pedal, stop and have the system bled by a Tesla-certified technician.
- Top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with DOT 4.
- Reinstall the rear wheel. Torque the lug nuts to the Wheel Lug Nuts specification in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Reconnect the 12V battery and close out Service Mode.
Verification
- With the vehicle running and brake system pressurized, inspect both the banjo at the caliper and the hard-line junction for any seepage. Wipe clean and re-check after several brake applications.
- Pump the brake pedal — it should be firm within 2-3 strokes. A spongy pedal indicates remaining air; re-bleed.
- Check for ABS, traction control, or brake system warnings on the touchscreen. Any warning related to the iBooster or ABS module after a brake fluid service typically requires a Tesla scan tool to clear and may indicate incomplete bleeding.
- Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area, then a moderate-speed test, confirming straight, even braking with no pulling.
- Re-inspect all fittings after the road test for any weeping fluid.
- Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — log this service date so the next interval is tracked.