Brake Rotors - Front Pair

Replace both front brake rotors on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. The fronts use a fixed multi-piston caliper mounted to the knuckle (not a sliding caliper bracket), so rotor removal requires unbolting the caliper body itself.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake rotors (pair, OEM-spec for Model S LR 19"/21" fitment — verify by VIN) × 2 — Tesla OEM or equivalent — confirm size by VIN/wheel package
• Rotor set screws (replace if corroded/damaged) × 2 — OEM Torx-head rotor retaining screw

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion on applicable Plaid units) low-voltage battery located under the front trunk nose cowl panel. Refer to architecture notes for exact battery type on this VIN.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Service Mode in the touchscreen prior to 12V disconnect if you wish to suppress alerts; not strictly required for a brake rotor job.
7. If the vehicle has air suspension (Performance/Plaid), set ride height to High and enable Jack Mode in the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V to prevent the system from leveling while on stands.
8. Loosen front lug nuts ¼ turn while wheels are on the ground.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front lift points using rubber pucks, and support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
10. Remove both front wheels and set aside on their faces to protect finish.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the caliper, wear sensor wiring (if equipped), and brake hose routing on both sides before disassembly. Note rotor thickness and any uneven wear patterns. Confirm rotor diameter matches the replacement parts before proceeding.
2. 2

   Support the caliper
   Position a caliper hanger or bungee from the upper control arm or coil spring. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the flexible brake hose at any point — this can damage the internal hose liner.
   ⚠Hanging the caliper by the hose can cause hidden internal damage that fails later under braking pressure.
3. 3

   Remove brake pads (recommended for clearance)
   On the front fixed caliper, remove the pad retaining hardware and slide the pads out radially per OEM procedure. This is recommended because retracting the multiple pistons is required to clear the new (thicker) rotor on reinstall. Use a spreader tool to gently push pistons back evenly — do this with the bleeder cracked open and a catch bottle attached to avoid backfeeding contaminated fluid into the ABS module.
   ⚠Do NOT push pistons back with the master cylinder reservoir sealed — open the bleeder to expel old fluid into a catch bottle. Backflowing dirty fluid through the ABS/iBooster can damage internal valves.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Unbolt the front caliper from the knuckle
   The 2024 Model S front uses a fixed caliper bolted directly to the steering knuckle (no separate caliper bracket up front). Remove the two caliper-to-knuckle bolts. These are torque-to-yield-style fasteners with threadlocker — replacement or fresh threadlocker is required on reinstall. Lift the caliper off the rotor and secure it to the hanger.
   ⚠Verify the correct fastener torque spec for your specific 2024 Model S configuration — refer to Tesla Service Manual to confirm sequence and whether bolts are single-use.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the rotor set screw
   Locate the small Torx-head set screw retaining the rotor to the hub face. If seized, apply penetrant and use a hand impact driver — do NOT round the head. Replace the screw if damaged.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the rotor
   Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If corrosion has bonded it to the hub, thread two bolts into the rotor's threaded jacking holes (if present) and tighten alternately to break it free. DO NOT strike the hub or knuckle with a steel hammer — these are aluminum/cast components and can crack. A dead-blow on the rotor friction surface is acceptable.
   ⚠Aluminum suspension and body components — never strike with a steel hammer.
7. 7

   Clean the hub face
   Wire-brush the hub mounting face to bare metal. Any rust or debris between the hub and rotor will cause lateral runout and brake pulsation. Apply a thin film of anti-seize to the hub center pilot only — keep it off the friction surface and lug stud threads.
8. 8

   Install the new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor friction surfaces with brake parts cleaner to remove shipping oil. Place the rotor onto the hub, aligning the set screw hole. Install and torque the rotor set screw.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall the caliper
   Confirm pistons are retracted enough to clear the new rotor. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper-to-knuckle bolts (or use new bolts if specified by service manual). Install the caliper over the rotor and torque the bolts to spec, following the manufacturer-specified sequence.
   ⚠Verify tightening sequence with the Tesla Service Manual — incorrect sequence on fixed calipers can distort the caliper body.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall pads and hardware
    Install the new (or existing serviceable) brake pads and any anti-rattle clips/pins per OEM orientation. Close the bleeder screw and torque to spec. Top off the brake fluid reservoir with the DOT 3 brake fluid specified for this VIN (verify — newer Model S may specify DOT 4).
    ⚠Verify DOT 3 vs DOT 4 specification by VIN before adding fluid. Mixing incompatible fluids can damage seals.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Repeat for the opposite side
    Perform steps 2–10 on the other front wheel. Do not work both sides simultaneously without pads installed — keep at least one circuit serviceable in case the vehicle must be moved.
12. 12

    Pump pedal and check fluid
    With the 12V still disconnected, pump the brake pedal repeatedly until firm to seat the pistons against the new rotors. Top off the reservoir to the MAX line. Confirm no fluid leakage at bleeders or hose fittings.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall front wheels. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern by hand.
2. Lower vehicle to the ground.
3. Final-torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk.
5. Close frunk and verify all dash warnings clear after a full wake/sleep cycle.
6. If air suspension was placed in Jack Mode, exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen so the system re-levels.

Verification

• With the vehicle stationary and brake pedal pressed, confirm the pedal is firm and does not sink — a sinking pedal suggests air ingestion during piston retraction and requires a full bleed.
• Check the touchscreen for any ABS, traction control, or brake system alerts. Any amber/red brake icon must be resolved before driving.
• Perform a low-speed roll test (under 10 mph) in a safe area and apply brakes lightly — confirm the vehicle stops straight with no pulling or grinding.
• Bed in the new rotors per the pad manufacturer's procedure: a series of moderate stops from approximately 60→10 mph, allowing cooling between cycles. Note that Tesla's strong regenerative braking will reduce friction-brake usage afterward — drivers should periodically perform manual brake applications to keep rotors clean of surface rust.
• Recheck lug nut torque after the first 50–100 miles.
• Note: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If due, schedule a full system flush as a follow-up service.

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