Replace both front sway bar end links on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. The front sway bar links connect the bar to the lower control arm assembly and are a straightforward suspension job, but require careful jack point selection due to the floor-mounted HV battery.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar end link (left) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S 2021+ refresh front sway bar link — verify by VIN
• Front sway bar end link (right) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S 2021+ refresh front sway bar link — verify by VIN

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake (via touchscreen Controls > Safety).
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key moved at least 10 feet from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located under the nose cowl panel in the front trunk). Note: 2024 Model S typically uses a 16V Li-ion auxiliary battery — disconnect per the manufacturer-specified procedure.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If equipped with air suspension, enter Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) BEFORE the vehicle is on the lift to prevent the system from trying to self-level.
7. Chock the rear wheels.
8. Loosen front lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle ONLY at Tesla-approved front jack points (forward of the battery pack). Support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
10. Remove both front wheels.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect old links and surrounding components
   Visually inspect both sway bar end links for torn boots, play in the ball studs, and corrosion. Note the orientation and any spacers/washers — new links should match. Inspect sway bar bushings and brackets while accessible; this is a good time to replace bushings if worn.
2. 2

   Apply penetrating oil
   Spray penetrating oil on the upper and lower nut threads of both sway bar links. Allow several minutes to soak. This reduces the chance of the stud spinning when removing the nut.
3. 3

   Remove driver-side (LH) sway bar link — upper nut
   Locate the upper attachment where the link meets the sway bar end. Insert an Allen/hex key into the end of the stud to hold it stationary, then loosen and remove the nut with the appropriate wrench. Retain the nut for reference but plan to use the new nut supplied with the link.
   ⚠If the stud spins freely and cannot be held with a hex key, cut the nut off with a small cut-off wheel — do not heat with a torch near the aluminum subframe or HV pack underbody.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove driver-side (LH) sway bar link — lower nut
   Locate the lower attachment where the link meets the lower control arm (or strut bracket per design). Hold the stud with a hex key and remove the nut. Withdraw the old link from the vehicle.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Install new driver-side (LH) sway bar link
   Insert the new link into both upper and lower mounting locations in the same orientation as removed. Hand-thread both nuts to ensure clean engagement. Do not fully torque yet — leave snug so the link can self-align as the suspension loads.
6. 6

   Repeat removal and installation on passenger-side (RH)
   Repeat steps 3-5 on the passenger side: remove upper nut, remove lower nut, withdraw old link, install new link, and hand-thread the nuts snug.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Final torque on both sway bar links
   With the link aligned naturally (not pre-loaded in a twisted position), torque both upper and lower nuts on both links to specification. Hold the stud with a hex key while torquing to ensure the nut — not the stud — is rotating against the wrench reading.
   ⚠Over-torquing will damage the new link's internal ball joint or shear the stud. Use a calibrated torque wrench.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Inspect sway bar bracket bolts (optional spec check)
   While the area is accessible, confirm the sway bar bracket bolts are seated and torqued to OEM specification. Do not loosen unless replacing bushings.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread lug nuts in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque lug nuts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual (typically a star/cross pattern).
4. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery in the frunk. Reinstall the cowl/nose panel.
5. Close the frunk.
6. If air suspension equipped: exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the system to re-level before driving.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, push down firmly on each front corner — suspension should rebound smoothly with no clunking or rattling.
• Test drive at low speed over a speed bump or rough surface — listen for any clunks from the front end, which would indicate a loose link nut or misaligned stud.
• At highway speed, confirm steering tracks straight and there is no new vibration. Sway bar link replacement does not require alignment, but if the vehicle pulls or steering is off-center, schedule an alignment.
• After ~100 miles, re-check both sway bar link nuts for the specified torque — settling can occasionally loosen new components.
• Note: while you have the front suspension exposed, this is also a convenient time to check the cabin air filter service interval (every 2 years, or every 3 years for HEPA-equipped models) and brake fluid (every 2 years per Tesla's published recommendation) — neither is required for this job, but both are commonly overdue on Model S vehicles.

More procedures for this vehicle