Replace the front wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. The unit is a pressed/bolted hub assembly retained by hub bolts behind the steering knuckle, with the axle nut securing the front halfshaft.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing/hub assembly × 1 — Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh) front hub assembly — verify by VIN
• Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM single-use axle nut — replace per service manual
• Cotter pin (if applicable) × 1 — OEM cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion on Plaid-equivalent variants) low-voltage battery under the nose cowl panel. Verify the vehicle does not wake when a door is opened.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V if equipped with air suspension, to prevent the system from trying to re-level. (If 12V is already disconnected, the system will be inactive.)
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the wheel is on the ground.
8. Loosen the axle nut while the wheel is on the ground (it is staked/cotter-pinned — remove the retainer first). The axle nut requires very high breakaway torque.
9. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points using a hockey-puck style pad to protect the battery pack, and support on jack stands.
10. Remove the front wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper
   Remove the two caliper bracket bolts and lift the caliper and bracket as one assembly off the rotor. Support the caliper with wire or a bungee — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Inspect the hose for cracks while it's accessible.
2. 2

   Remove brake rotor
   Remove the rotor retaining screw (if present) and slide the rotor off the hub. If the rotor is seized to the hub, apply penetrating oil at the hat and tap evenly with a brass hammer — never strike the friction surface.
3. 3

   Disconnect ABS/wheel speed sensor
   Locate the ABS sensor on the steering knuckle. Remove the retaining bolt and gently pry the sensor out of its bore. Trace the harness and unclip it from the strut and knuckle brackets. Set the sensor aside where it cannot be damaged — this sensor is critical for ABS, traction control, regen, and Autopilot.
   ⚠Do not pull on the ABS sensor harness. If the sensor is seized in the knuckle, twist gently with pliers on the sensor body, not the wire.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove axle nut and free the halfshaft
   Remove the previously loosened axle nut and discard it (single-use). Push the halfshaft splined stub inward through the hub. If it is seized, use a hub-puller or tap gently with a brass drift on the stub end — do not strike with a steel hammer or you will mushroom the threads.
   ⚠Do not allow the halfshaft inner CV joint to hang unsupported — it can over-extend and damage the inner tripod.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Separate suspension/steering as needed for hub access
   Depending on knuckle clearance, you may need to separate the outer tie rod end and/or lower ball joint from the knuckle to swing the knuckle outward enough to clear the halfshaft. Mark any alignment-critical fasteners before loosening. Use a proper ball joint separator — do NOT use a pickle fork on aluminum components.
   ⚠An alignment will likely be required after this job if tie rod or camber-adjustable bolts are disturbed.
6. 6

   Remove the wheel bearing hub assembly
   From behind the knuckle, remove the hub assembly retaining bolts. The hub assembly may be seized to the knuckle bore due to corrosion. Use a slide hammer attached to the hub flange, or carefully tap the hub face with a brass hammer in a cross pattern. Do NOT pry between the hub and aluminum knuckle with a steel pry bar — you will gouge the bore.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Inspect and clean the knuckle bore
   Clean the knuckle hub-mounting face and bore with a wire brush and brake cleaner. Remove all corrosion and old threadlocker from the bolt holes (chase threads with the correct tap if necessary). Inspect the knuckle for cracks or distortion. Apply a thin film of anti-seize to the bore where the new hub pilots — do NOT get anti-seize on the bolt threads.
8. 8

   Install new wheel bearing hub assembly
   Seat the new hub squarely into the knuckle bore. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the hub bolt threads (unless the bolts are pre-coated). Hand-thread all bolts before torquing to prevent cross-threading the aluminum knuckle. Torque in a star/cross pattern in two passes.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle threads are easily cross-threaded. If a bolt does not turn freely by hand for the first several threads, STOP and re-start.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall halfshaft and axle nut
   Slide the halfshaft splines through the new hub. Install a NEW axle nut (single-use). Torque to specification, then either install a new cotter pin or stake the nut collar into the axle slot per the OEM design. The halfshaft must be loaded (vehicle weight on wheel) or the hub locked before final torque — follow the method specified in the service manual.
   ⚠️An improperly torqued or unstaked axle nut can back off and allow the wheel to separate from the vehicle. This is a critical fastener.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall ABS sensor
    Wipe the sensor tip and the knuckle bore clean of any debris (the sensor reads the encoder ring on the new hub — metal shavings will cause erratic readings). Lightly lubricate the O-ring, seat the sensor fully, and torque the retaining bolt. Re-clip the harness in its original routing.
    Torque spec

    ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall brake rotor and caliper
    Slide the rotor onto the new hub. Reinstall the caliper bracket assembly — apply threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolts and torque to spec. Pump the brake pedal several times after reassembly (after 12V is reconnected) to seat the pads against the rotor before driving.

Reassembly

1. Reconnect any separated tie rod or ball joint fasteners and torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
2. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall the frunk cowl panel.
6. Allow the vehicle to wake; pump the brake pedal firmly several times until it is solid before moving the car.
7. Clear any stored ABS/ESC/traction faults via the touchscreen if they appear after the first wake cycle.

Verification

• Confirm no warning indicators on the touchscreen: ABS, traction control, stability control, EPB, or 'Service Vehicle Soon'.
• With wheel off the ground, spin the hub by hand — it should rotate smoothly with no roughness or noise.
• Test drive at low speed first: listen for grinding/humming from the corner. Wheel bearing noise typically changes pitch with load — gentle left/right sweeps will load each front bearing alternately.
• At 30+ mph, verify Autopilot/TACC engages without faults — the front wheel speed sensors feed these systems and a misseated sensor will block engagement.
• Re-torque the wheel lug nuts after 50–100 miles.
• If tie rod was separated, perform a 4-wheel alignment.
• Tesla Service Interval reminder: while the wheels are off, this is a good time to verify brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and to rotate tires if due (every ~6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle