Wheel Bearing - Press-In Rear

Replace the press-in rear wheel bearing on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. The rear bearing is pressed into the knuckle and requires removing the half-shaft and using a hydraulic press or in-vehicle bearing tool kit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear wheel bearing assembly (press-in) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified rear wheel bearing for 2024 Model S AWD — verify by VIN
• Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM single-use stake/castle nut
• Cotter pin (if castle-style nut used) × 1 — OEM cotter pin
• Hub bolts (if specified single-use) × 4 — OEM hub-to-knuckle hardware

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (If this VIN is equipped with a 16V Li-ion unit, follow the appropriate disconnect location per architecture notes.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE 12V disconnect to disable air suspension self-leveling (Performance/Plaid trims with air suspension).
7. Loosen the rear axle nut and wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on rated jack stands. Confirm vehicle is stable before going underneath.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove rear wheel
   Remove the rear wheel lug nuts and pull the wheel. Inspect tire wear pattern — uneven inner/outer wear can confirm bearing or alignment issues. Set the wheel aside on its sidewall to protect the finish.
2. 2

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the rear brake caliper bracket bolts and lift the caliper assembly off the rotor. Support it with a hanger or bungee — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the rotor retaining clip/screw if present and pull the rotor off the hub.
   ⚠Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed — it will eject the pistons.
3. 3

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Locate the ABS speed sensor on the rear knuckle, unclip the wiring harness from any retainers along the upper control arm, and remove the sensor retaining bolt. Carefully withdraw the sensor and set it aside out of the work area to avoid damaging the tone ring or sensor tip.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove axle nut and free the half-shaft from the hub
   Remove the staked/castle axle nut (and cotter pin if equipped). Discard — this is single-use. Push the outer CV stub through the hub. If it is seized, use a soft-faced puller; do NOT hammer the axle threads. Once free, support the half-shaft with wire — do not let it hang.
   ⚠Discard the old axle nut. Always reinstall with a new nut and (if applicable) new cotter pin.
5. 5

   Disconnect suspension links to free the knuckle (if required by chosen tool method)
   Depending on whether you are using an in-vehicle bearing press or removing the knuckle entirely: if removing the knuckle, separate the upper control arm, toe link, and lower control arm/spring link fasteners per the OEM service manual sequence. Mark eccentric alignment bolts before loosening to preserve alignment as closely as possible. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
   ℹ️An alignment is required after this job regardless — but marking bolts saves time getting it close to drive to the alignment shop.
6. 6

   Remove the hub flange from the knuckle
   Remove the four hub-to-knuckle bolts from the back side of the knuckle and separate the hub flange. The hub typically remains pressed into the inner bearing race and must be pulled from the bearing using a slide hammer or bearing separator. Inspect the hub flange for galling or scoring; replace if damaged.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Press out the old bearing
   Using a hydraulic press (with the knuckle removed) or an in-vehicle bearing press kit, press the old bearing out of the knuckle bore. If the inner race remained on the hub, use a bearing splitter to remove it from the hub before reuse. Clean the knuckle bore thoroughly — remove all corrosion and old grease. Inspect bore for cracks, ovality, or scoring.
   ⚠Press only on the appropriate race during removal/installation. Pressing on the wrong race destroys a new bearing instantly.
8. 8

   Press in the new bearing
   Lightly coat the knuckle bore with a thin film of clean grease. Press the new bearing squarely into the bore using a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race. Press until fully seated against the shoulder. Do not press on the inner race or seal during installation.
   ⚠Confirm the bearing is seated square. A cocked bearing will fail within hundreds of miles.
9. 9

   Reinstall hub flange into new bearing
   Press the hub flange into the new bearing's inner race using a press with proper support under the inner race (NEVER pressing through the outer race — this destroys the new bearing). Reinstall the hub flange to the knuckle with the manufacturer-specified hardware.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. If the knuckle was removed, reinstall it and reconnect upper control arm, lower link, and toe link. Torque all suspension fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Final-torque suspension bolts at ride height when possible to avoid bushing preload.
2. Slide the half-shaft outer stub through the new hub. Apply a light film of anti-seize to the splines if specified by the bearing manufacturer.
3. Install a NEW axle nut. Torque to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft) and stake the nut collar OR install a new cotter pin per the nut style fitted to this VIN.
4. Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor and torque to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). Reseat the harness in all retainers.
5. Reinstall the brake rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper. Torque caliper hardware to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
6. Reinstall the rear wheel and snug lug nuts by hand.
7. Lower the vehicle to the ground and torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
8. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk.
9. Power the vehicle on and exit Jack Mode if it was enabled. Allow air suspension (if equipped) to self-level.

Verification

• Confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control faults appear on the touchscreen after a key cycle. A faulted ABS sensor after this job usually means the sensor was reinstalled crooked or the tone ring was damaged.
• Slowly drive the vehicle at parking-lot speed and listen for grinding or roaring from the repaired corner — a properly installed bearing is silent.
• Verify steady-state highway behavior: no rumble that changes with vehicle load (loaded rumble that disappears on opposite-direction sweepers indicates a bearing still failing).
• Confirm Regen and traction systems function normally — the rear wheel speed signal feeds these.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately. The rear toe link and camber bolts on Model S directly affect rear tire wear, and Tesla's heavy curb weight and instant torque accelerate misalignment wear.
• Re-torque the lug nuts after approximately 50–100 miles of driving — Tesla recommends a re-torque check after wheel service.
• While the vehicle is on the lift, take advantage of access to inspect: rear brake pad thickness, tire rotation interval (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi), and brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage).

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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