drivetrain
Wheel Bearing Hub - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.2 h
Tools
15
Steps
11
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replacement of a rear wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. The rear hub is integrated with the bearing and bolts to the rear knuckle; the half-shaft must be partially withdrawn to clear the hub flange.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. The HV pack runs under the floor pan — keep jack points and stands at the factory-marked lift locations only.
⚠The Model S has an aluminum body and aluminum suspension components. Do not strike knuckles or control arms with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow or brass drift.
⚠Axle nut torque (200 Nm) is critical to bearing life. Under-torquing causes premature bearing failure; over-torquing damages the new bearing.
⚠Do not let the half-shaft hang by the inner CV joint — support it to avoid damaging the inner tripod/CV.
ℹ️While the wheel is off, inspect rear pads, rotor, and ABS tone ring. Tesla recommends brake fluid service every 2 years — verify last service date.
Tools required
Breaker bar, 1/2" driveEssential
Metric socket and wrench setEssential
Rubber mallet / dead-blow hammerEssential
Wire/bungee to support brake caliperEssential
Threadlocker, medium strength (blue)Essential
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Parts
- Rear wheel bearing hub assembly × 1 — OEM-spec rear hub/bearing for 2024 Model S AWD — verify by VIN
- Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — Replace if specified by Tesla — single-use stake/crimp nut
- Hub mounting bolts × 4 — Reuse only if undamaged; replacement recommended if stretched/TTY
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located under the nose cowl/frunk trim). Follow Tesla's documented disconnect order for the low-voltage system.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place the vehicle into Jack/Service Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE losing 12V (this disables auto-leveling on air suspension and prevents the car from shifting out of P during lift). If 12V is already disconnected, ensure the vehicle is on stands at the factory lift points.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts and the rear axle nut while the vehicle is still on the ground (the axle nut torque is very high — do not attempt with the wheel off the ground).
- Raise the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified lift points and support on jack stands rated for EV weight. Remove the rear wheel.
Procedure
- 1Remove the axle nutWith the wheel removed, fully unthread and remove the rear axle/hub nut from the end of the half-shaft. Discard if it is a single-use stake nut and a replacement is specified by Tesla.
- 2Remove the brake caliper and bracketUnbolt the rear brake caliper bracket from the knuckle. Support the caliper with wire or a bungee — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake line. Remove the brake rotor (it may need a gentle tap with a dead-blow; do not strike with a steel hammer).⚠Aluminum knuckle — use a dead-blow or rubber mallet only.
- 3Disconnect the ABS / wheel speed sensorRemove the ABS sensor retention bolt and carefully withdraw the sensor from the knuckle. Unclip the sensor harness from any retainers along the trailing/upper control arms so the sensor is not pulled when the knuckle is moved.ℹ️If the sensor is seized, twist gently — do not pry against the tone ring on the new hub.
- 4Separate the half-shaft from the hubPush the outer CV stub axle inward, out of the hub splines. If seized, use a hub puller or tap with a brass drift on the stub end. Once free, support the half-shaft horizontally with wire — do not allow it to dangle from the inner joint.⚠If the half-shaft will not retract enough to clear the hub, you may need to loosen one suspension link to gain clearance — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the link to release on this trim.
- 5Remove the hub assembly from the knuckleFrom the rear/inboard side of the knuckle, remove the four hub mounting bolts securing the bearing/hub assembly. Withdraw the hub assembly from the knuckle face. If corroded in place, use a soft mallet on the hub flange — never pry against the aluminum knuckle face.Torque specWheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 6Clean and inspect the knuckle mating surfaceThoroughly clean the hub mounting face on the knuckle with brake cleaner and a non-abrasive pad. Remove any corrosion or debris. Inspect the knuckle bore and bolt threads for damage. Verify the new hub seats flat and flush against the knuckle.
- 7Install the new hub assemblyPosition the new hub against the knuckle, aligning the ABS tone-ring orientation and bolt holes. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the hub bolts if specified. Install the four bolts hand-tight, then torque in a cross/star pattern.⚠Do not use impact tools for final torque — use a calibrated torque wrench in two passes.Torque specWheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 8Re-engage the half-shaftGuide the outer CV stub through the new hub splines. A light film of anti-seize on the splines is acceptable; keep it off the threaded end and the bearing seal. Start a new axle nut by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- 9Reinstall the ABS sensorInsert the ABS wheel speed sensor into its bore on the knuckle, ensuring the sensor face is clean and seated fully against the tone ring shoulder. Install the retaining bolt and reclip the harness in its original routing.
- 10Reinstall the brake rotor and caliperSlide the rotor onto the new hub. Reinstall the caliper bracket onto the knuckle with threadlocker on the bolts, then reinstall the caliper over the pads. Verify pads slide freely and the caliper guide pins move smoothly.
- 11Final axle nut torqueWith the wheel reinstalled and lug nuts snug, lower the vehicle so the tire just contacts the ground (or have an assistant hold the brake). Torque the axle nut to the verified critical value. If a stake/crimp nut is specified, stake it into the half-shaft groove per Tesla service procedure.⚠️Improper axle nut torque is the #1 cause of premature bearing failure. Use a calibrated torque wrench — do not estimate.Torque specAxle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern using a calibrated torque wrench.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk.
- Close the frunk, re-enter the vehicle, and exit Jack/Service Mode via the touchscreen.
- Allow the vehicle to wake fully and clear any transient ABS/TC warnings by driving at low speed in a safe area.
Verification
- Confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control faults appear on the touchscreen after a short drive above ~10 mph (the ABS module needs wheel-speed signal to clear).
- Listen for bearing noise (humming/growling that changes with cornering load) at 30–50 mph — should be silent on a correctly installed new hub.
- Re-check wheel lug torque after the first 50–100 miles (Tesla's published recommendation for any wheel removal).
- Verify no brake drag, no ABS warning, and that regenerative braking behaves normally — abnormal regen behavior can indicate an ABS sensor seating or tone-ring issue.
- While the rear was apart, confirm the rear drive unit gear oil service status: Tesla now recommends inspection/replacement on a service interval (initial ~12,500 mi, then 25,000–50,000 mi) — note this in the service record if due.
- Confirm tire rotation status — Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi due to high torque and vehicle weight.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
B0290Heated Steering Wheel CircuitC0021LF Wheel Speed Sensor Range/PerformanceC0022RF Wheel Speed Sensor Range/PerformanceC0035Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0036Left Front Wheel Speed Signal ErraticC0040Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0041Right Front Wheel Speed Signal ErraticC0050Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0051Right Rear Wheel Speed Signal ErraticU0229Lost Communication With Heated Steering Wheel ModuleU0314Software Incompatibility With Four Wheel Drive Control ModuleU0414Invalid Data Received From Four Wheel Drive Control Module
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →