Complete replacement of all hydraulic brake lines on a 2024 Model X Long Range, including hard lines and flexible hoses at all four corners, followed by a full system bleed. This is a wet, multi-hour job requiring proper flare wrench technique and careful routing around the air suspension and aluminum subframe components.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front flexible brake hose (left) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model X 2024 front LH brake hose — verify against VIN
• Front flexible brake hose (right) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model X 2024 front RH brake hose — verify against VIN
• Rear flexible brake hose (left) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model X 2024 rear LH brake hose — verify against VIN
• Rear flexible brake hose (right) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model X 2024 rear RH brake hose — verify against VIN
• Hard brake line set (front-to-rear and crossover lines) × 1 — OEM Tesla pre-formed brake lines — order by VIN, do not substitute generic
• Brake hose-to-caliper sealing washers (copper/aluminum crush) × 8 — Match OEM banjo washer spec
• Brake line retaining clips × 1 — OEM chassis clip set

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed, fresh container) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the frunk (similar position to Model S). Follow on-screen prompts if applicable and remove the negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V: enter Service Mode / Jack Mode on the touchscreen to disable air suspension self-leveling. Confirm suspension is in 'Jack' or transport state.
7. Close and confirm both falcon-wing doors are fully shut and will not be cycled during the procedure.
8. Loosen all four wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
9. Lift vehicle at the four manufacturer-specified jack points using approved pucks; support on rated stands. Remove all four wheels.
10. Cover painted body panels and the front trunk seal area with absorbent shop towels to catch fluid drips.
11. Have a sealed container of fresh DOT 3 brake fluid on hand — do not use any fluid that has been open more than a few months.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document existing brake line routing
   Before removing anything, photograph the routing of every hard line and flexible hose, including each chassis clip, P-clamp, and grommet pass-through. Pay particular attention to clearance from the air suspension lines, HV harness shielding, and the floor-mounted HV pack edge. The Model X uses pre-formed lines that follow specific paths; replicating the route exactly is critical to avoid abrasion failures.
   ⚠️Identify any orange HV cabling near the brake line route. Plan removal so tools never contact orange cables.
2. 2

   Cap reservoir and prepare for fluid drain
   Open the frunk and locate the brake fluid reservoir on the brake master cylinder assembly. Use a clean syringe or fluid extractor to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir to minimize spillage during line removal. Wipe the reservoir cap area clean before opening to prevent contamination.
3. 3

   Loosen flare fittings before unbolting clips
   Working at one corner at a time, use a proper flare-nut wrench to crack loose every hard-line-to-flex-hose union and the flex-hose-to-caliper banjo (or threaded) fitting. Do this BEFORE removing any retaining clips — the clip holds the hard line stationary while you break the fitting loose. If a fitting is seized, apply penetrant and wait; do not over-torque or you will twist and ruin the hard line.
   ⚠Never use an open-end wrench on brake line flare nuts. They will round off and require line replacement at minimum.
4. 4

   Remove front flexible hoses
   At each front corner, fully unscrew the hard-line union, then remove the bolt/banjo at the caliper end. Discard the sealing washers — always use new ones. Remove the retaining clip at the strut/chassis bracket and withdraw the hose. Cap the open hard line and caliper port immediately to keep contaminants out.
5. 5

   Remove rear flexible hoses
   Repeat the process at each rear corner. Note that rear hose routing on Model X passes near the air suspension lines and the rear subframe — do not let the new hose contact air lines or sharp edges during reinstall. Cap all openings as you work.
6. 6

   Remove hard brake lines
   Working from the master cylinder back, release each hard line from its chassis clips using a trim tool — do not pry with a screwdriver against painted underbody or aluminum panels. Disconnect at the master cylinder/ABS module unions last. Drain remaining fluid into a catch container as lines are freed. Lay the old lines out on the bench in their installed orientation to use as templates for the new pre-formed set.
   ⚠Do not loosen or disconnect any line at the ABS/iBooster module beyond the brake line ports themselves. Internal module service requires Tesla diagnostic software.
7. 7

   Inspect and prepare new lines
   Compare every new hard line and flex hose against its old counterpart for length and bend geometry. Test-fit before final installation. Confirm that flex hoses have no twists when the suspension is at ride height (not droop). Inspect chassis clips and grommets — replace any that are cracked or distorted.
8. 8

   Install new hard lines
   Route new pre-formed hard lines along the documented path. Hand-thread every flare fitting first — never start a fitting with a wrench. Once hand-tight at both ends, snug them with a flare wrench, then torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the exact hard-line union torque (typically low, around 14–18 Nm range, but confirm). Seat each line into its chassis clips.
   ⚠Cross-threading a flare fitting will leak permanently. If a fitting does not turn freely by hand for the first two threads, back it out and re-start.
9. 9

   Install new flexible hoses with new sealing washers
   Install each flex hose with NEW crush washers on both sides of any banjo fitting. At the caliper end, torque the banjo bolt or threaded fitting to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Confirm the hose is not twisted: the manufacturing stripe (if present) should run straight along the hose length. Secure the chassis end clip fully — a partially seated clip is a future failure point.
10. 10

    Verify all clips, clearances, and retainers
    With everything connected, inspect every hose and line for: (a) clearance from the air suspension air lines and reservoir, (b) clearance from suspension control arms through full travel, (c) no contact with any orange HV cabling or shielding, (d) all clips fully seated. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock (with vehicle still lifted, motor off, just by turning the wheel manually if possible) to confirm front hoses do not bind.
11. 11

    Refill reservoir and bleed the system
    Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid to the MAX line. Bleed using a pressure bleeder or two-person method. The bleed sequence on Tesla vehicles must be confirmed against the service manual — typical Model X sequence runs from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder to the closest, but the iBooster system may require a specific software-assisted bleed at the ABS module after manual bleeding. Open each bleeder, expel old fluid and air until clear fluid runs without bubbles, then close. Keep the reservoir topped up — do NOT let it run dry or you will introduce air at the master cylinder.
    ⚠If the iBooster/ABS module was opened or run dry, a complete bleed may require Tesla diagnostic software to actuate the module. If pedal does not firm up after manual bleed, STOP and seek dealer-level service.
    ℹ️Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years — log this date.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall wheels
    Lift wheels onto hubs, hand-thread all lugs, then snug in a star pattern. Final torque must be applied with vehicle weight on the ground or just before — torque each lug in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Lower vehicle off stands following manufacturer-recommended sequence (one corner at a time, slowly, watching for line contact).
2. Final-torque wheel lugs in a star pattern with full vehicle weight on the wheels.
3. Reconnect 12V battery (positive first, then negative) in the frunk.
4. Close frunk; allow vehicle to wake and re-initialize air suspension. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode.
5. Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX with fresh DOT 3 and seal cap.
6. Pump brake pedal repeatedly until firm before moving the vehicle. The pedal MUST be firm and high — if it is soft or sinks, do not drive.

Verification

• With vehicle on, press brake firmly and hold for 30 seconds — pedal must not sink. Any sinking indicates a leak or master cylinder issue.
• Inspect every fitting (8 caliper-end, 4 corner unions, all master cylinder/ABS unions) with a clean white paper towel after pressure is applied — any wetness = leak. Re-check after a 24-hour rest.
• Clear any brake-related fault codes via the touchscreen service menu (or dealer scan tool if persistent).
• Low-speed road test (under 25 mph) in an empty area: perform several firm friction-brake stops. Regenerative braking will mask hydraulic issues — you must specifically use the friction brakes.
• Re-inspect all fittings and check fluid level after road test.
• Log brake fluid service date — next replacement due in 2 years per Tesla recommendation.
• Confirm air suspension is operating normally and self-levels after drive cycle; no suspension fault should appear on the display.

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