brakes
Brake Pads - Front
for 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
13
Steps
10
Replace the front brake pads on a 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range. Although regenerative braking dramatically reduces pad wear, pads still require periodic inspection and replacement, and brake caliper hardware should be serviced carefully due to the heavy curb weight of the vehicle.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. Although this job is not HV, orange HV cabling runs near the floor pan; if exposed or damaged, STOP.
⚠️Tesla Model X is extremely heavy (~5,400 lb). Use jack stands rated appropriately and only lift at Tesla-approved jacking points to avoid damaging the floor-mounted HV battery pack.
⚠Vehicle has air suspension. Place vehicle in 'Jack Mode' via the touchscreen (Service menu) BEFORE lifting to prevent the suspension from trying to self-level.
⚠Falcon doors: keep the area around the rear doors clear during this job. Do not lean tools or parts on door tracks or sensors.
⚠Aluminum body and suspension components — do not strike with steel hammers; use a dead-blow or rubber mallet only if needed to free a stuck rotor or caliper.
ℹ️When pressing the caliper piston back, monitor the brake fluid reservoir in the frunk — fluid will rise and may overflow. Extract fluid first if reservoir is near MAX.
Tools required
Floor jack rated for 6,000+ lb vehicleEssential
Jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (to protect battery pack and pinch welds)Essential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (including 21mm or 22mm for lug nuts)Essential
Hex/Allen socket setEssential
Brake caliper piston compression tool / large C-clampEssential
Brake cleaner
Wire brush
Bungee cord or caliper hangerEssential
Silicone brake greaseEssential
Medium-strength threadlocker (blue)Essential
Turkey baster or fluid extractor (for brake reservoir)
Parts
- Front brake pad set (Model X, manufacturer-specified for this VIN) × 1 — OEM Tesla front pad set — verify by VIN; Model X uses different front pads than Model S in some configurations
- Caliper hardware/abutment clips (if worn or included with pad kit) × 1 — OEM-equivalent clip kit
Fluids
- DOT 3 Brake Fluid (top-up only if needed)
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk (similar position to Model S). Refer to the under-hood access panel procedure.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Before disconnecting 12V: enable 'Jack Mode' on the touchscreen (Service > Suspension > Jack Mode) so the air suspension does not auto-level while lifted.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Lift the front of the vehicle ONLY at Tesla-approved jacking points using puck adapters; support with jack stands.
- Inspect the rotors, dust shields, and caliper boots for damage before beginning work.
Procedure
- 1Remove front wheelsFully remove the front lug nuts and pull the wheels off. Place wheels under the rocker panels as a secondary safety measure. Inspect the wheel hub face for corrosion.
- 2Inspect brake assemblyVisually inspect the caliper, rotor, and existing pads. Note the orientation of any anti-rattle clips, shims, or wear sensor wiring (if equipped). Photograph the assembly for reference during reassembly.
- 3Relieve brake reservoir pressureOpen the frunk and check the brake fluid reservoir level. If at or near MAX, use a clean fluid extractor or turkey baster to remove fluid down to the MID line so that pushing the caliper piston back doesn't overflow the reservoir.⚠Brake fluid damages paint. Wipe spills immediately with water.
- 4Remove caliper slide/guide boltsRemove the caliper slide pin bolts that secure the caliper body to the bracket. Support the caliper as the bolts come free. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the flexible brake hose — suspend it with a bungee cord or caliper hanger from the suspension.⚠Hanging the caliper by the brake hose can damage the hose internally and cause future failure.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 5Remove old brake padsSlide the worn pads out of the caliper bracket. Note the inboard vs. outboard orientation. Remove and discard old anti-rattle clips if a new clip kit is included with the pad set.
- 6Compress caliper pistonUsing a caliper piston compression tool, slowly press the piston straight back into the caliper bore. Watch the brake fluid reservoir level as you do this. Inspect the piston dust boot for tears or fluid weeping — if damaged, the caliper must be rebuilt or replaced before proceeding.⚠If the piston will not retract or the boot is damaged, STOP. A leaking caliper requires replacement, not just pad service.
- 7Clean and lubricate hardwareWipe the caliper bracket abutments clean with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Install new anti-rattle clips if provided. Pull each slide pin from the bracket, wipe clean, inspect the rubber boot, and apply a thin film of silicone brake grease before reinstalling. Pins must slide freely by hand.ℹ️Use only silicone-based brake grease — petroleum greases will swell rubber slide pin boots.
- 8Install new brake padsInstall the new pads into the caliper bracket in the same orientation as the originals. Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to the back of the pad backing plates (NOT the friction surface) and the contact points with the abutment clips to prevent squeal.
- 9Reinstall caliperLower the caliper body over the new pads and align with the slide pins. Hand-thread the slide pin bolts to avoid cross-threading, then torque to specification.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 10Repeat on opposite front wheelRepeat steps 1–9 on the other front corner. Always service brakes in pairs (both front pads replaced together).
Reassembly
- Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before snugging to prevent cross-threading on the aluminum hub face.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Top up brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid if needed. Reinstall the cap.
- Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk.
- Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen once the vehicle is back on the ground and powered up; allow the air suspension to self-level before driving.
Verification
- Before moving the vehicle: with the brake pedal depressed, pump the pedal multiple times until firm. The first pump WILL go to the floor — this is normal because the pistons were retracted. Do not drive until pedal feel is firm and consistent.
- Check the brake fluid reservoir level one more time after pumping the pedal; top up to MAX if needed.
- Check the touchscreen for any brake-related alerts. The Model X may display a 'Service Brake System' message that clears after a few brake applications, but persistent alerts indicate a sensor or hydraulic problem.
- Perform a low-speed (5–10 mph) brake test in a safe area before road use. Listen for grinding, dragging, or pulling.
- Bed in the new pads per the pad manufacturer's procedure (typically 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph, then a cooldown). Note that Tesla regenerative braking will reduce friction-brake usage, so deliberate bed-in is more important on EVs than on ICE vehicles.
- Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If fluid is more than 2 years old or shows moisture contamination, schedule a full flush.