Replace a single front brake rotor on a 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range. The Model X uses heavy 5,400+ lb curb weight with performance-grade front brakes — proper torque on caliper bracket bolts is critical.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake rotor (single, OEM or OEM-equivalent for Model X LR) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front rotor for 2024 Model X Long Range
• Rotor set screw (if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM set screw
• Caliper bracket bolts (if reuse not advised) × 2 — OEM front caliper bracket bolt

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (top-up only if bleeder is opened)

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk (similar location to Model S). Follow Tesla's documented disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V, enter Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Controls → Service → Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jacking point using a hockey-puck pad to protect the battery pack and pinch weld. Support with jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel and set aside on its face to protect the finish.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect assembly before disassembly
   Visually inspect the caliper, bracket, rotor, pads, and flexible brake hose. Note pad thickness, rotor scoring, and any fluid weeping. Photograph routing of any wear sensor wiring (if equipped) before disturbing.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts (caliper body)
   Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts holding the caliper body to the bracket. Do NOT disconnect the brake hose. Slide the caliper off the bracket and rotor.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the caliper
   Suspend the caliper from a suspension component using a wire hanger or bungee. Never let it hang by the brake hose — this can damage the internal liner of the hose and cause delayed failure.
   ⚠Hanging the caliper by the hose can cause hidden internal damage that fails weeks later.
4. 4

   Remove brake pads (optional but recommended)
   Slide the brake pads out of the bracket and inspect. If pads are below service limit or have uneven wear, replace them — front rotor replacement is the right time. Inspect anti-rattle clips and shims; reuse only if undamaged.
5. 5

   Remove caliper bracket bolts
   Remove the two large caliper bracket bolts securing the bracket to the front knuckle. These are torqued high and likely have factory threadlocker — use a breaker bar. Discard or clean threads thoroughly for reuse with fresh threadlocker.
   ⚠Front Model X caliper bracket bolts are torqued to 120 Nm with threadlocker — they will be tight.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove rotor set screw
   Remove the small rotor retention set screw from the rotor hat. If the head is corroded, apply penetrating oil and use a properly-sized bit to avoid stripping. Replace the set screw if the head is damaged.
   ⚠Stripping this set screw turns a 45-minute job into a multi-hour ordeal. Use the correct bit and seat it fully.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the rotor
   Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub. If seized due to corrosion at the hub interface, thread two bolts into the rotor's threaded service holes (if present) and tighten alternately to push the rotor off, OR strike the rotor hat (NOT the friction surface or hub) with a dead-blow mallet. Do not use a steel hammer on aluminum knuckle components.
   ⚠Never strike the wheel hub directly — you can damage the wheel bearing.
8. 8

   Clean hub mating surface
   Wire-brush the hub face to remove all corrosion and debris. A clean, flat hub-to-rotor interface is mandatory to prevent runout and brake pulsation. Do not apply anti-seize to the friction surface; a very thin smear of high-temp anti-seize on the hub center pilot only is acceptable.
9. 9

   Install new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor's friction surfaces with brake cleaner to remove shipping preservative. Install over the hub, aligning the set screw hole. Install and tighten the rotor set screw — this only locates the rotor; the wheel clamps it.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Clean threads on the caliper bracket bolts and apply fresh medium-strength threadlocker. Install the bracket to the knuckle and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall pads and caliper
    Reinstall pads (and any anti-rattle hardware) into the bracket. If pads were replaced or piston is extended, retract the piston with a proper caliper compression tool — open the bleeder when retracting if you want to avoid pushing contaminated fluid back into the ABS module (recommended on Tesla). Reinstall the caliper body over the rotor onto the bracket.
    ℹ️If you opened the bleeder, the brake fluid reservoir level should be checked and the line bled at this corner before road test.
12. 12

    Torque caliper slide pin bolts
    Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease to the slide pin shafts (not the threads). Install slide pin bolts and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Bleed if opened
    If the bleeder was cracked during piston retraction, bleed this corner with DOT 3 brake fluid until clean fluid flows with no air. Torque the bleeder screw — do NOT overtighten; the seat is soft.
    ⚠Bleeder screws strip easily. 10 Nm is hand-snug — stop there.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying torque.
2. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification (Wheel Lug Nuts: 140 Nm / 103 lb-ft).
3. Lower the vehicle fully and remove jack stands.
4. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk.
5. Close the frunk and exit Jack Mode (it may auto-clear when the vehicle wakes; verify air suspension self-levels normally).
6. Top off brake fluid reservoir with DOT 3 if it was opened, to the MAX line — do not overfill.
7. With the vehicle stationary and brake pedal pumped firmly several times until pedal is hard, confirm no fluid leaks at the bleeder or hose.

Verification

• Pump brake pedal until firm BEFORE moving the vehicle — the first pump after caliper service will go to the floor.
• Roll the vehicle slowly in a safe area and confirm brakes engage evenly with no pulling, grinding, or pulsation.
• Check the touchscreen for any brake-related alerts after waking the vehicle.
• Bed in the new rotor: perform 6–8 moderate stops from ~35 mph down to ~5 mph, then 2–3 harder stops from ~50 mph to ~15 mph, without coming to a complete stop. Allow brakes to cool by driving normally for 10 minutes without holding the pedal.
• After the first ~50 miles, re-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 140 Nm.
• Inspect for fluid weeping at the bleeder and slide pins after the first drive.
• Note: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — if it has been longer, schedule a full system flush soon.

More procedures for this vehicle