Rebuild the front brake calipers on a 2024 Model X Long Range by disassembling the caliper, replacing seals and dust boots, and reinstalling with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Standard friction brake job — no HV systems involved, but air suspension and regen behavior require specific handling.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper rebuild kit (piston seals, dust boots, bleeder cap) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified rebuild kit for 2024 Model X front caliper
• Caliper slide pin boots (if not in kit) × 2 — OEM specification
• Silicone brake grease / caliper lube × 1 — High-temp synthetic, brake-rated
• Brake cleaner (aerosol) × 2 — Non-chlorinated preferred
• Crush washers for brake hose banjo (if equipped) × 4 — OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed, fresh container) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk (under the front trunk liner, similar to Model S layout).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V: on the touchscreen, enable Jack Mode (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to lock air suspension at current height and disable self-leveling.
7. Disable Falcon Wing Door auto-presenting in the touchscreen settings; keep all doors closed and clear during the entire procedure.
8. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved lift pucks at the front jacking points only. Support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight (Model X is ~5400+ lb).
10. Remove front wheels and set aside on rubber pads to protect finish.
11. Place a catch pan beneath the caliper area; have brake cleaner ready.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the caliper, hose routing, and any sensor/wear indicator wiring before disassembly. Note pad thickness and rotor condition. Confirm there is no orange cabling near the work area — front brakes on Model X should not have HV cabling routed there, but verify.
2. 2

   Clamp and disconnect brake hose
   Apply a rubber-jaw hose clamp to the flexible brake line to minimize fluid loss. Place catch pan under the caliper. Remove the brake hose banjo bolt (or flare fitting) from the caliper body. Cap the line and the caliper port immediately. Discard the crush washers if banjo-style.
   ⚠Brake fluid will damage paint. Wipe spills immediately with water.
3. 3

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Remove the two caliper slide pin / guide bolts securing the caliper body to the caliper bracket. Slide the caliper off the rotor. Remove brake pads and anti-rattle clips, keeping inner/outer orientation marked.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket (optional but recommended for full rebuild)
   Remove the caliper bracket bolts from the steering knuckle to access the bracket fully for cleaning and slide-pin service. Note bolt orientation and any threadlocker residue.
   ⚠These bolts are CRITICAL fasteners thread-locked from the factory. Use new threadlocker on reinstallation.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Extract caliper piston
   With the caliper off the vehicle, place a wood block in the pad cavity. Use low-pressure compressed air at the fluid inlet port to walk the piston out, OR use a hydraulic piston tool. Keep fingers clear — the piston can eject forcefully.
   ⚠️Never place fingers between piston and caliper body. Pneumatic ejection can amputate fingertips.
6. 6

   Remove dust boot and piston seal
   Carefully pry the dust boot out of its groove with a non-marring pick. Remove the square-cut piston seal from the internal bore groove. Inspect the bore for pitting, scoring, or corrosion — if pitted, the caliper body must be replaced, not rebuilt.
   ℹ️Do NOT use steel picks that gouge the bore. A scratched bore will not seal.
7. 7

   Clean and inspect
   Clean caliper body, piston, and bracket thoroughly with brake cleaner. Inspect piston for chrome plating wear, corrosion, or scoring. Replace piston if any surface defect is present. Clean slide pin bores and the slide pins themselves.
8. 8

   Install new seals
   Lubricate the new piston seal with clean DOT 3 brake fluid and seat it fully in the bore groove. Install new dust boot per kit instructions (some seat in caliper first, others on piston first). Lubricate piston with brake fluid.
9. 9

   Reinstall piston
   Press the piston squarely into the bore by hand or with a piston-press tool. It should slide in smoothly with even resistance. Seat the dust boot retention ring fully. Confirm the boot is not folded or pinched.
10. 10

    Service slide pins
    Clean slide pins, inspect boots for tears, replace boots if damaged. Apply silicone brake grease to slide pins before reinsertion into the bracket.
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper bracket (if removed)
    Apply fresh threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolts. Install bracket to the steering knuckle and torque per spec.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Install pads and caliper
    Install anti-rattle clips and brake pads in original orientation (or new pads if being replaced). Slide caliper over rotor and pads. Install slide pin bolts and torque to spec.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reconnect brake hose
    Install new crush washers (if banjo-style) on each side of the fitting. Reconnect the brake hose to the caliper. Torque the banjo/flare fitting to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Remove the hose clamp.
14. 14

    Bleed brakes
    With a fresh sealed bottle of DOT 3, bleed the caliper at the bleeder screw until clear bubble-free fluid flows. Torque the bleeder screw without overtightening. Top off the master cylinder reservoir in the frunk to the MAX line. Since the system was opened, a full 4-corner flush is strongly recommended; Tesla service interval for brake fluid is 2 years.
    ⚠Do not let the master cylinder reservoir run dry during bleeding — this introduces air into the ABS/iBooster.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying torque.
2. Lower vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
4. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk and reinstall any covers/trim.
5. Close frunk and confirm latch.
6. Power up the vehicle; exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow air suspension to self-level.
7. Re-enable Falcon Wing Door auto-presenting if previously disabled.

Verification

• With the vehicle still stationary and in P, pump the brake pedal multiple times until firm — do NOT drive until pedal is solid.
• Inspect each caliper, bleeder, and hose fitting for leaks under pedal pressure.
• Check brake fluid reservoir level in the frunk; top off to MAX with DOT 3.
• Confirm no brake-related alerts on the touchscreen (ABS, iBooster, brake fluid level).
• On first drive, perform several low-speed friction-only stops in a safe area. Tesla regenerative braking can mask a soft pedal — use the brake pedal directly to confirm proper bite.
• Verify air suspension self-levels normally and Falcon doors operate without faults.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 50 miles (Tesla recommends re-torque after wheel service).
• Log the brake fluid service date — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.

More procedures for this vehicle