Replace the front lower control arm bushing on a 2024 Model X Long Range. Due to the bonded rubber/voided design and aluminum control arm construction, Tesla typically services this as a complete control arm assembly rather than pressing individual bushings.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm assembly (OEM, side-specific) — recommended over loose bushing on this aluminum arm × 1 — Tesla OEM front lower control arm, Model X 2024 — confirm left/right by VIN
• Front lower ball joint cotter pin × 1 — OEM cotter pin, single use
• Control arm pivot bolts (if specified single-use by Tesla) × 2 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual — replace if marked TTY/single-use

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk (remove frunk liner, disconnect negative terminal first, isolate cable end).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V: enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Controls → Service → Jack Mode) to disable the air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle on a two-post lift using only the OEM-specified pinch-weld points; never on the HV battery case.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side and set aside.
10. Inspect the area for any orange HV cable, coolant lines, or wiring harnesses routed near the lower control arm before proceeding.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document and inspect
   With the wheel removed, photograph the existing routing of brake hose, ABS/wheel-speed sensor harness, and any clips attached to the lower control arm. Inspect the bushing for cracking, separation, or fluid weep (hydraulic-type voided bushings can leak). Verify which arm is being serviced and confirm replacement part is side-correct.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link from lower control arm
   Locate the sway bar end link where it attaches to the lower control arm. Hold the stud with the appropriate Allen/hex key while loosening the nut with an open-end wrench. Remove the nut and swing the end link out of the way.
   ⚠Always counter-hold the link's internal hex — spinning the stud will destroy the boot.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the knuckle
   Place a transmission jack or jack stand under the steering knuckle/lower spring perch area to support the assembly before separating the ball joint. This prevents the knuckle from dropping and stressing the upper components, brake line, or air strut.
   ⚠️Air suspension struts are charged. Do not allow the knuckle to drop unsupported — it can damage the air line fitting at the strut top.
4. 4

   Separate lower ball joint from knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint stud and discard. Loosen but do not fully remove the ball joint nut — back it off to protect the threads. Use a screw-type ball joint separator (preferred over a pickle fork to preserve the boot if reusing the arm) to break the taper. Once free, remove the nut completely and swing the knuckle outboard.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle with a steel hammer to break the taper. Use a separator tool only.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Mark and remove control arm pivot bolts
   Before removal, paint-mark the pivot bolt positions and any cam/eccentric washers (if present) to assist with rough alignment on reassembly. Remove the inboard pivot bolts attaching the control arm to the front subframe. Support the arm as the last bolt comes out.
   ℹ️Pivot bolts may be torque-to-yield. Replace if specified by the Tesla Service Manual.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the lower control arm
   Maneuver the control arm down and out of the subframe. Note bushing orientation if you plan to press in a new bushing rather than replacing the entire arm.
7. 7

   Bushing service decision point
   Tesla typically services this bushing as part of a complete control arm assembly. If the bushing is supplied as a discrete service part and Tesla provides a press procedure, follow the manufacturer's bushing replacement procedure exactly using a hydraulic press and the correct bushing drivers — do not use heat on the aluminum arm. If unsure or no separate bushing is available, install a complete replacement control arm.
   ⚠Do not apply torch heat to an aluminum control arm to remove a bushing — it will permanently weaken the arm. Press only.
8. 8

   Install the control arm into the subframe
   Position the new (or rebuilt) control arm into the subframe brackets. Hand-thread both pivot bolts and any cam washers in their original orientation. Do not fully torque yet — these bolts must be final-torqued at ride height.
9. 9

   Reconnect ball joint to knuckle
   Guide the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install the ball joint nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening only as needed to align the next castellation slot with the cotter pin hole — never back off to align. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per OEM standard.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar end link
    Re-engage the end link stud into the control arm. Hold the internal hex with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reattach any harness clips, brake hose brackets, or wheel-speed sensor routing to the new control arm exactly as documented.
2. Reinstall the front wheel and torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
3. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is fully loaded at normal ride height (with air suspension, this requires reconnecting 12V and exiting Jack Mode so the system can pressurize to standard ride height).
4. With the vehicle at ride height and weight on the wheels, final-torque the control arm pivot bolts to specification.
5. Reinstall the frunk 12V battery negative terminal cover and frunk liner.
6. Clear any chassis/suspension fault codes that may have been set during the repair.

Verification

• After reconnecting 12V, allow the vehicle to wake up and self-level on the air suspension. Confirm no air suspension fault appears on the touchscreen.
• Visually verify ride height is even side-to-side at the front.
• Perform a four-wheel alignment on a Tesla-capable alignment rack — Model X requires specific ride-height settings during alignment for accurate camber/caster readings.
• Road test at low speed first: check for clunks over bumps (indicating loose pivot bolts), pulling, or off-center steering wheel.
• At highway speed, confirm tracking is straight and there is no vibration or wander.
• Re-inspect torque on the ball joint nut and pivot bolts after the first 100 miles, and confirm the cotter pin is intact.
• Note: While the vehicle is on the lift, this is a good opportunity to inspect items that fall under Tesla's actual (not marketing) service intervals — brake fluid (every 2 years), cabin filter (every 2 years; 3 years for HEPA), and front drive unit gear oil (initial 12,500 mi then 25,000–50,000 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle