Replace worn rear control arm bushing(s) on a 2024 Model X Long Range. The Model X uses a multi-link rear suspension with air suspension and aluminum components — careful handling is required, and final bushing bolt torque must be applied at ride height.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear control arm bushing (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model X) × 1 — OEM Tesla rear control arm bushing — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse
• Control arm bolts/nuts (if single-use per Tesla spec) × 1 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual — replace if specified as single-use

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk (similar position to Model S). Refer to Tesla service documentation for the access panel and disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V: enter Service Mode on the touchscreen and enable Jack Mode to disable air suspension self-leveling. Confirm the suspension does not attempt to adjust before working under the vehicle.
7. Chock the front wheels.
8. Loosen rear lug nuts while the wheels are on the ground.
9. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support on jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points (NOT on the HV battery pack or its frame rails).
10. Remove the rear wheel(s) on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document the rear suspension
   Visually inspect the rear control arm, bushings, ball joint, sway bar link, and surrounding components. Photograph orientation of all eccentric/cam bolts and alignment marks before disassembly — these reference points are critical for getting close to original alignment on reassembly.
2. 2

   Support the rear knuckle/hub assembly
   Place a transmission jack or floor jack with a wood block under the rear knuckle to support its weight. This prevents the assembly from dropping and damaging the half-shaft, brake hose, or wheel speed sensor wiring once the control arm is unbolted.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the brake hose or ABS sensor wire — both are easily damaged and expensive to replace.
3. 3

   Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the sway bar link blocks access to the control arm, disconnect it at the lower mount. Hold the inner shaft with an Allen key to prevent rotation while loosening the nut.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate the ball joint (if required for the specific arm)
   If the control arm being serviced uses an outboard ball joint at the knuckle: remove the cotter pin, back off the castle nut, and separate the ball joint using a screw-type separator. Do NOT use a pickle fork on the boot side — it will destroy the boot. Discard the cotter pin.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — strikes from a hammer can crack the casting. Use a separator tool, not impact.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Mark and remove the inner control arm bolt
   Mark the position of any cam/eccentric washers with a paint pen relative to the subframe so the alignment can be returned close to factory before the alignment shop visit. Remove the inner control arm through-bolt and nut. Note: this is the bolt that passes through the bushing being replaced.
6. 6

   Remove the control arm (or access the bushing in-situ)
   Depending on the bushing location, either remove the control arm from the vehicle for press-out service OR use an on-car bushing service tool to extract the bushing in place. Removing the arm is generally easier and less likely to damage the subframe mount ears.
   ⚠Subframe bushing mount ears are aluminum and can deform under press loads — use proper adapters that bear on the bushing shell, not the subframe.
7. 7

   Press out the old bushing
   Using a hydraulic press with the manufacturer-specified or properly sized adapters, press the old bushing out of the control arm. Support the arm so it cannot rotate or kick under load. Inspect the bushing bore for cracks, scoring, or ovaling — replace the arm if the bore is damaged.
   ⚠️Pressed bushings can release suddenly with high stored energy. Keep hands and face clear of the press travel path.
8. 8

   Prepare the bore and install the new bushing
   Clean the bushing bore. Apply the manufacturer-specified lubricant (typically a soapy water or rubber-safe lube — NEVER petroleum grease on a rubber bushing). Verify the new bushing's orientation: many Tesla rear bushings are voided/clocked and MUST be installed in a specific rotational position relative to the arm. Press in slowly and squarely until fully seated to the specified depth.
   ⚠Installing a voided bushing in the wrong clock position will cause poor ride, premature failure, and possibly an alignment that won't hold spec.
9. 9

   Reinstall the control arm
   Reinstall the control arm to the subframe. Hand-thread the inner through-bolt and nut — do NOT final-torque yet. Reconnect the outer ball joint to the knuckle if it was separated; install a NEW cotter pin after torquing the castle nut.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar link
    Reconnect the sway bar end link, holding the inner shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to ride height
    Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so its full weight is on the wheels at normal ride height. For air suspension, exit Jack Mode and allow the vehicle to settle at standard ride height before final torque.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque the control arm bushing bolt at ride height
    With the vehicle at full ride height and weight on the wheels, torque the inner control arm through-bolt to spec. This sets the bushing's neutral preload position and is critical for bushing life.
    ⚠Skipping the at-ride-height torque step is the #1 cause of repeat bushing failures on independent rear suspensions.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final torque on lug nuts
    Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk and reinstall any covers removed for access.
2. Disable Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
3. Cycle the air suspension by raising and lowering through ride height settings; verify it self-levels normally and reports no faults.
4. Clear any chassis or suspension alerts on the touchscreen.
5. Verify Falcon doors operate normally (sensors can throw faults after 12V disconnect/reconnect — open and close fully at least once).

Verification

• Check the touchscreen for any suspension, ABS, or stability control alerts. Address any DTCs before road test.
• With the vehicle on a level surface, measure ride height at all four corners and confirm it is within Tesla spec — air suspension should settle evenly.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps that would indicate an under-torqued bolt or misclocked bushing.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — any rear control arm service requires alignment to restore camber/toe.
• Recheck the inner control arm bolt torque after the first 100 miles, especially on aluminum-mounted bushings.
• Note: while the vehicle is in for alignment, this is a logical time to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and cabin air filter (every 2 years, or 3 years on HEPA-equipped Model X).

More procedures for this vehicle