electrical

Headlight Assembly

for 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD

Difficulty

Moderate

Time

1.0 h

Tools

Steps

Replacement of a front headlight assembly on a 2024 Tesla Model X. Requires partial removal of the front fascia or wheel liner access panel to reach the rear of the headlight; calibration may be required after install.

Warnings

⚠️Model X uses falcon wing rear doors — these are NOT involved in this job, but ensure no one operates the doors while you are working near the front of the vehicle. Park with adequate clearance.

⚠The Model X body is largely aluminum. Do NOT strike panels with a hammer or pry aggressively against fender edges — aluminum dents and creases far more easily than steel and is expensive to repair.

⚠Front fascia retaining clips are often single-use and brittle in cold weather. Have replacement clips on hand before starting.

⚠Headlight assemblies on the Model X contain matrix LED modules and integrated electronics. Do not pry on the lens or housing — only handle by the mounting tabs.

ℹ️After replacement, the vehicle may require headlight aim verification and, depending on configuration, software recognition of the new module. If error messages persist, a Tesla-certified technician with Toolbox access may be required.

Tools required

Plastic trim removal tool setEssential

Torque wrench (1-30 Nm range)Essential

T20 / T25 / T30 Torx bit setEssential

10mm socket and ratchetEssential

Insulated gloves (for 12V disconnect)

Soft fender cover / blanket to protect aluminum body panels

Headlight aim wall chart or aiming fixture

Parts

Headlight assembly (Model X 2024 LH or RH, matrix LED as equipped) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model X 2024 headlight — verify side and trim level before ordering
Replacement fascia clips / push pins (often single-use) × 1 — OEM front fascia retainer clips

Preparation

Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the frunk (under the front trunk liner/access panel — similar position to Model S). Loosen and isolate the negative terminal first.
DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Disable the air suspension's auto-leveling by entering Service Mode or by ensuring the vehicle remains undisturbed; air suspension is standard on Model X and may attempt to self-level if the vehicle is touched.
Confirm you have the correct LH or RH headlight assembly matched to the VIN/build (matrix LED variants differ between trims and markets).
Lay a soft cover over the front fender and frunk lip to protect the aluminum body.

Procedure

1
Open frunk and access front fascia fasteners
Open the frunk. Remove the frunk liner/trim as needed to expose the upper row of fascia retaining bolts and push-pin clips along the front edge of the frunk opening. Use a plastic trim tool to release clips without scoring the aluminum.
2
Release wheel liner edge for side access
Turn the steering toward the opposite side to gain wheel-well access on the side being serviced. Remove the front portion of the inner fender liner fasteners (typically Torx and push pins) to expose the side of the headlight and the fascia-to-fender attachment.
⚠Do not yank the liner — release all clips first to avoid tearing the liner or breaking captive nuts.
3
Loosen front fascia (only as required)
Release the upper fascia row and the side fascia-to-fender clips on the affected side enough to allow the fascia to be eased forward and clear the headlight tabs. Full fascia removal is typically not required for a single headlight — only enough flex to clear the outboard mounting tab.
⚠Have a helper support the fascia or use foam blocks. Do not let the fascia hang on its harnesses (parking sensors, ambient temp sensor, camera wiring).
4
Disconnect headlight electrical connectors
Reach behind the headlight and release the locking tabs on each connector (low/high beam, turn signal, DRL, control module). Press the lock fully before pulling — the connectors are robust and will break if forced. Set harnesses aside so they do not snag during removal.
5
Remove headlight assembly mounting bolts
Remove the headlight assembly mounting bolts (typically three: two upper at the radiator support / frunk lip, one outboard at the fender). Support the assembly with one hand as the last bolt comes out so it does not fall against the fascia.
Torque spec
Headlight Assembly Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
6
Withdraw the headlight assembly
Pull the headlight straight forward to disengage any locating pins at the rear. Do not twist or pry on the lens. Inspect the locating grommets and pins on the body — replace any damaged isolators.
⚠If the assembly resists, recheck for a missed connector or a hidden fastener — never force it.
7
Compare new and old assemblies
Place the new headlight next to the old one. Confirm side, connector count, mounting tab geometry, and any internal module connectors match. Transfer over any reusable hardware only if specified by the manufacturer.
8
Install new headlight assembly
Align the rear locating pin into its grommet and seat the assembly. Hand-start all mounting bolts before torquing any to allow the assembly to self-align with the fender and fascia gap.
Torque spec
Headlight Assembly Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
9
Torque headlight mounting bolts
Torque the headlight assembly mounting bolts to specification in a cross pattern. Verify the panel gaps to the fender and fascia are even before final torque.
Torque spec
Headlight Assembly Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10
Reconnect electrical connectors
Reconnect each connector until the locking tab clicks. Tug-test each one. Route the harness back into its retaining clips so it cannot contact the cooling fan shroud or chafe against the radiator support.
11
Adjust headlight aim if equipped with manual adjusters
If the assembly has external adjuster screws, set initial aim to the manufacturer's reference position. Final aim verification is done after the vehicle is buttoned up and on level ground at proper ride height.
ℹ️Air suspension ride height directly affects beam aim — verify the vehicle is at standard ride height before final aim.
Torque spec
Adjuster Screws3 Nm (2 lb-ft)

Reassembly

Reposition the front fascia and start the upper row of fasteners by hand. Reseat all fascia clips along the fender edge — replace any that broke.
Reinstall the inner fender liner fasteners.
Reinstall any frunk trim that was removed for access.
Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal. Torque terminal bolt to specification.
Close the frunk and confirm proper latching.

Verification

Power up the vehicle. Check the instrument display for any lighting, ADAS, or auto-high-beam fault messages.
Cycle low beam, high beam, DRL, turn signal, and (if equipped) cornering/matrix functions. Confirm both sides operate identically.
With the vehicle at standard air-suspension ride height on level ground, verify headlight aim against a wall chart or with an aiming fixture per the Tesla Service Manual.
Inspect panel gaps between the new headlight, the fender, the fascia, and the frunk lid — they should be uniform with the opposite side.
Test drive briefly at night or in a dark garage to confirm beam pattern and auto-high-beam transitions (if equipped).
Note: This job is not part of a scheduled service interval, but while the front of the vehicle is open, it is a good time to check cabin air filter age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years, or every 3 years for HEPA/Bioweapon-Defense-equipped Model X) and brake fluid age (Tesla recommends every 2 years).