2024 TESLA MODEL X

Long Range Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
8 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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suspension

Lower Control Arm - Rear

for 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
12
Steps
13

Replacement of a rear lower control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range AWD. This vehicle uses standard air suspension and a multi-link rear, so air suspension must be disabled in service mode before lifting and the final fastener torque must be applied at ride height.

Warnings

⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. The HV battery is floor-mounted directly beneath the work area on Model X — keep tools and jack arms clear of HV pack penetrations.
⚠️Air suspension reservoirs hold pressure. The system MUST be placed in Jack Mode / Transport Mode via the touchscreen before lifting, and lift points must follow Tesla's published pad locations to avoid puncturing the HV pack or deforming the aluminum underbody.
Model X body and many suspension components are aluminum. Do not strike with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift to avoid cracking castings.
Critical chassis bolts (control arm, ball joint, strut) MUST be torqued with the suspension loaded at ride height. Torquing at full droop will pre-load bushings and cause premature failure.
Falcon doors: keep them closed during this job. Opening with the vehicle on a lift can cause sensor faults or contact with shop equipment.
ℹ️An alignment is required after replacing any rear suspension link on this vehicle.

Tools required

Tesla-approved lift or hoist with rated lift padsEssential
Jack stands rated for EV curb weight (Model X ~5,400 lb)Essential
Metric socket set (10–24 mm)Essential
Metric wrench setEssential
Torque wrench, 20–150 Nm rangeEssential
Torque wrench, 150–250 Nm range (for control arm bolt final torque)Essential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar end link counter-hold)Essential
Breaker bar
Pry bar
Ball joint separator / pickle fork (non-marring preferred)
Wheel chocksEssential
Penetrating oil

Parts

  • Rear lower control arm assembly (manufacturer-specified, side-specific) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model X rear lower control arm — verify left/right by VIN
  • Control arm fasteners (replace if single-use per OEM specification) × 1 — OEM-spec bolts/nuts as required by Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk (similar position to Model S). Follow Tesla's documented disconnect sequence.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Before disconnecting 12V: enter the touchscreen Service menu and place the air suspension in Jack Mode (or Transport Mode) so the system does not attempt to self-level on the lift.
  7. Confirm the vehicle is fully powered down and the air suspension has stopped cycling.
  8. Chock the front wheels.
  9. Identify the OEM-specified lift points for Model X (reinforced pinch-weld pucks ahead of the rear wheels). Do NOT lift on the HV pack edges.
  10. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the wheels are still on the ground.
  11. Raise the vehicle and support it on rated jack stands.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove the rear wheel
    Fully remove the rear wheel lug nuts and pull the wheel. Set the wheel face-down to protect the finish.
  2. 2
    Inspect and photograph the rear suspension layout
    Before disturbing anything, photograph the orientation of the lower control arm, any toe/camber adjuster cams (if equipped on this link), and routing of brake/ABS lines and parking brake cable. The Model X rear is a multi-link design — orientation marks are critical for reassembly.
  3. 3
    Support the rear knuckle/upright
    Place a transmission jack or suitable support under the rear knuckle to control its position once the control arm is released. This prevents the half-shaft from over-articulating and prevents damage to the brake hose and ABS wiring.
    Do not let the upright hang on the half-shaft — it can damage the inner CV joint.
  4. 4
    Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it interferes)
    If the sway bar end link routes across or attaches near the lower control arm, remove the lower nut while counter-holding the stud with an Allen key on the flat. Swing the link out of the way.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Release the outboard ball joint / knuckle attachment
    Remove the ball joint nut securing the lower control arm to the rear knuckle. Separate the joint using a non-marring separator. Avoid hammering the aluminum knuckle. If the arm uses a through-bolt at the knuckle rather than a ball joint, remove that bolt instead.
    Aluminum knuckle — do not strike with a steel hammer.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Mark and remove the inboard control arm bolt
    If an eccentric/cam alignment bolt is present at the inboard pivot, paint-mark its position relative to the subframe before loosening. Remove the inboard control arm bolt and withdraw the bolt fully.
    ℹ️Even with cam marks, an alignment is still required after this repair.
  7. 7
    Remove the lower control arm
    Maneuver the arm out from between the subframe and the knuckle. Inspect the bushings, mounting bores in the subframe, and the knuckle pocket for damage, elongation, or corrosion. Compare new and old arms side-by-side to confirm correct part and orientation.
  8. 8
    Install the new lower control arm — finger tight
    Position the new arm. Install the inboard pivot bolt (re-aligning any cam marks) and the outboard ball joint / knuckle fastener. Run all fasteners up snug but do NOT final-torque yet — the arm bushings must be clamped at ride height.
  9. 9
    Reconnect the sway bar end link
    Reinstall the sway bar end link nut, counter-holding the stud with an Allen key on the flat to prevent the stud from spinning.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Final-torque the outboard ball joint / knuckle fastener
    Torque the ball joint nut to specification. If the fastener is a castellated nut with cotter pin or a prevailing-torque nut specified as single-use by Tesla, follow OEM replacement guidance.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Reinstall the wheel
    Mount the wheel and run the lug nuts up by hand in a star pattern. Snug them, but final torque is applied after the vehicle is on the ground.
  12. 12
    Lower vehicle to ride height and final-torque the inboard control arm bolt
    Lower the vehicle so full curb weight is on the wheels (or simulate ride height with the suspension loaded on a drive-on hoist). With the bushing clamped at ride height, final-torque the inboard control arm bolt. This is critical — torquing at droop will damage the bushing.
    Do not final-torque the control arm bolt with the suspension hanging.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Final-torque the lug nuts
    With the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified spec.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Confirm no tools, rags, or fasteners remain in the wheel well or on the subframe.
  2. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk.
  3. Power up the vehicle. Exit Jack Mode / Transport Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to self-level.
  4. Cycle the suspension through height settings (Low / Standard / High) if available, listening for clunks or air leaks.
  5. Check for any suspension, ABS, or stability control alerts on the touchscreen and clear/diagnose as needed.

Verification

  • Perform a 4-wheel alignment — mandatory after any rear suspension link replacement on Model X. Tesla publishes specific rear toe/camber targets for the air-sprung X; use current OEM values.
  • Road test at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps which would indicate an under-torqued bushing bolt or a bushing that was clamped off ride height.
  • Road test at highway speed and confirm the vehicle tracks straight, the steering wheel is centered, and no chassis or stability warnings appear.
  • Re-inspect all fasteners visually after the road test.
  • Note for the owner: while you have the vehicle in for suspension work, this is a good opportunity to verify Tesla's other time-based service items — brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2 years (3 years if HEPA-equipped), and drive unit gear oil per Tesla's revised 12,500 mi initial / 25,000–50,000 mi interval guidance.

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