suspension
Subframe Bushing
for 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Expert
Time
4.0 h
Tools
14
Steps
13
Replace worn front or rear subframe (cradle) bushings on a 2024 Model X Long Range AWD. This is a heavy, suspension-loaded job requiring a lift, transmission jack, and the manufacturer-specified subframe alignment pins to maintain wheel geometry.
Warnings
⚠️Air suspension can suddenly drop or extend if 12V is reconnected during service. Place vehicle in Jack Mode BEFORE disconnecting 12V, and support the chassis on the lift pads — never trust ride height alone.
⚠️The HV battery pack is floor-mounted directly above the subframe area. Do NOT pry against, drill into, or strike the pack enclosure. Any orange cable contact = STOP.
⚠Model X has an aluminum-intensive body and cast suspension components. Do not strike castings with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow or brass drift.
⚠Subframe removal disturbs alignment. A 4-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job.
⚠Falcon doors: keep the key fob well away from the vehicle and do not open the rear doors during the lift — auto-presenting doors can strike shop equipment.
ℹ️Control arm bolts must be final-torqued at ride height (vehicle weight on wheels), not while suspension is hanging.
Tools required
Two-post or four-post lift with rolling jackEssential
Transmission jack or subframe support cradleEssential
Subframe alignment pins (manufacturer-specified)Essential
Hydraulic press or bushing R&R tool kit (sized for Model X subframe bushings)Essential
Torque wrench, 1/2" drive (up to 200 Nm)Essential
Torque wrench, 3/8" drive (10-100 Nm)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Metric socket and Torx/E-Torx setEssential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar end links)Essential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork (non-marring preferred)
Air suspension service mode access via vehicle touchscreen (Jack Mode)Essential
Pry bars
Penetrating oil
Paint pen / scribe (mark subframe position)Essential
Parts
- Subframe bushings (front or rear, as applicable) × 4 — Tesla Model X 2024 OEM subframe bushing set — order by VIN
- Subframe mounting bolts (single-use, if specified by Tesla) × 4 — OEM single-use bolts — replace if torque-to-yield
- Ball joint nuts (if disturbed) × 2 — OEM self-locking nut
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Use the touchscreen to enable Jack Mode (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling before lifting.
- Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk (refer to architecture notes for location). Cover the negative terminal to prevent accidental contact.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Confirm Falcon doors are closed and will remain closed; keep fob outside the shop bay.
- Raise the vehicle on a lift using Tesla-approved lift pad locations only. Do NOT lift on the battery pack or subframe.
- Remove all four wheels (if doing both subframes) or the two wheels at the affected axle.
- Remove the relevant aero underbody panels / belly pans to access the subframe.
- Have replacement bushings, alignment pins, and (if required) new single-use bolts on hand before disassembly.
Procedure
- 1Mark subframe reference pointsUsing a paint pen or scribe, mark the position of the subframe relative to the body at each mounting point. This provides a fallback reference even when using alignment pins, and helps confirm correct re-installation.
- 2Disconnect sway bar end linksAt the affected axle, remove the sway bar link nuts where they attach to the lower control arm or strut. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key to prevent spinning. Swing the links clear of the subframe.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 3Separate ball joints / steering knuckle linkagesDisconnect the lower ball joint(s) from the knuckle as required for subframe drop. Use a proper separator — do not hammer the aluminum knuckle. If tie rod ends or steering shaft couplers must be disconnected to clear the subframe, mark their orientation first.⚠Center and lock the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering shaft to avoid clock spring damage.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 4Disconnect air suspension lines and harnesses at subframeWith Jack Mode active and 12V disconnected, carefully release any air suspension lines, ride-height sensor linkages, ABS/wheel-speed harnesses, and electric power steering connectors that are routed across the subframe. Cap any opened air lines to prevent contamination.⚠Air lines are quick-connect — pull the collar squarely. Do not yank or kink the line.
- 5Disconnect strut lower mounts (if required for subframe drop)If the service procedure for this bushing location requires partial strut separation, remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts. Support the knuckle so the CV axle is not stressed.Torque specStrut Bolts115 Nm (85 lb-ft)
- 6Support subframe with transmission jackPosition a transmission jack or subframe cradle squarely under the subframe. Apply just enough lift to take the weight off the mounting bolts. Confirm the subframe cannot tip or slide off the jack.⚠️An unsupported subframe will fall and can cause crush injuries. Confirm the jack is centered and strapped if possible before removing bolts.
- 7Remove subframe mounting boltsRemove the four (or six, depending on axle) subframe-to-body bolts. Note the location and length of each bolt — they are not always interchangeable. If Tesla specifies these as single-use, discard them and use new bolts on reassembly.
- 8Lower subframe and remove from vehicleLower the transmission jack slowly, watching for any harness, line, or linkage still attached. Once clear of the body, walk the subframe out and transfer it to a workbench.⚠Watch the HV pack underside as the subframe descends — there must be zero contact with pack cooling lines or pack housing.
- 9Remove old bushingsUsing a hydraulic press or appropriate bushing R&R tool, press the old bushings out of the subframe. Note orientation marks on the old bushings (voids, arrows) before removal — new bushings must be installed in the same orientation.⚠Do not heat aluminum subframe sections with a torch to free bushings — this will weaken the casting.
- 10Install new bushingsClean and inspect the bushing bores. Press in the new bushings squarely, using only the outer steel sleeve as the pressing surface. Match orientation marks to the original. Confirm the bushing is fully seated and not cocked.
- 11Reinstall subframe with alignment pinsInsert the manufacturer-specified subframe alignment pins into the body's locating holes. Raise the subframe on the transmission jack until the pins fully engage and the subframe seats flush against the body. Install the subframe mounting bolts hand-tight.⚠Do not omit the alignment pins. Eyeballing the position will produce out-of-spec geometry that cannot be corrected by alignment alone.
- 12Torque subframe mounting boltsTorque the subframe mounting bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for this specific year/axle, as torque-to-yield sequences may apply. Remove alignment pins after torque is achieved.⚠Subframe-to-body torque is critical and not on our verified list — do not guess. Confirm with current Tesla service documentation.
- 13Reconnect suspension, steering, and harnessesReconnect ball joints (new self-locking nuts), tie rod ends, sway bar links, strut lower bolts (if removed), and all electrical/air connections. Route harnesses and air lines exactly as factory — no rubbing points.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)Strut Bolts115 Nm (85 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall any belly pans / aero panels with all original fasteners and clips — missing aero panels reduce range.
- Reinstall wheels, tightening lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle so full weight is on the wheels.
- With suspension at ride height, final-torque the control arm bolts to the verified spec (Control Arm Bolts: 165 Nm / 122 lb-ft). Failing to do this at ride height will cause premature bushing failure.
- Torque wheel lug nuts to spec in a star pattern (Wheel Lug Nuts: 136 Nm / 100 lb-ft).
- Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk; close the frunk.
- Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to self-level.
Verification
- Confirm no warning messages on the touchscreen related to suspension, steering, ABS, or air suspension after wake-up.
- Cycle the air suspension through Low / Standard / High via the touchscreen and confirm normal lift/lower behavior with no audible leaks.
- Verify steering wheel is centered when driving straight; if off, alignment shop will correct.
- Perform a 4-wheel alignment — mandatory after any subframe R&R. Provide the alignment shop with Tesla's published spec for this VIN.
- Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps (indicates loose subframe bolt or improperly seated bushing) and feeling for steering pull.
- Re-inspect subframe bolt torque and bushing seating after the first 100-200 miles of driving.
- While the vehicle is on the lift, this is a good opportunity to check service-interval items: brake fluid (2-year interval), drive unit gear oil condition, and battery coolant condition (Tesla now recommends inspection at 4 years / 50,000 mi).