suspension
Sway Bar Bushing - Front
for 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
30 min
Tools
8
Steps
9
Replace the front sway bar (anti-roll bar) bushings on a 2024 Model X. The bushings sit in two brackets that clamp the sway bar to the front subframe; access on the X is from underneath with the vehicle safely supported and air suspension service mode engaged.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. The HV pack is floor-mounted directly above your work area on the Model X — keep tools and jack points away from battery enclosure seams.
⚠Air suspension is standard on Model X. You MUST place the vehicle in Jack Mode (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) before lifting, or the system will attempt to self-level and can drop the vehicle off stands.
⚠Falcon doors: keep them closed during this job. Opening with the vehicle on stands at uneven height can confuse the door's pinch sensors and obstacle detection.
⚠Model X has aluminum subframe and body components — do NOT strike brackets with a steel hammer. Use a soft mallet if persuasion is needed.
ℹ️Only the verified torque values below are confirmed. Any fastener not listed: torque to OEM specification per the Tesla Service Manual rather than guessing.
Tools required
Floor jack with rubber padEssential
Jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Metric socket set (including deep sockets)Essential
Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Breaker bar
Pry bar
Trim/fastener removal tool (for aero shield)Essential
Silicone-safe rubber lubricant (for new bushings)
Parts
- Front sway bar bushing (manufacturer-specified, matched to bar diameter) × 2 — Tesla Model X front anti-roll bar bushing — verify diameter against existing bar before ordering
- Front aero/belly pan fasteners (replace any damaged push-pins) × 1 — Generic plastic push-pin and bolt set
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery — located in the frunk (similar position to Model S). Remove frunk trim as required to access the negative terminal.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Before disconnecting 12V: enter Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling. Confirm the vehicle has stopped any height adjustments.
- Loosen front lug nuts slightly while wheels are on the ground (optional — wheel removal makes bracket access easier but is not strictly required).
- Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points and support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight. Verify stability before going underneath.
- Remove the front aero underbody shield/belly pan to expose the front subframe and sway bar.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and documentWith the belly pan removed, photograph the sway bar, end links, and bracket orientation. Note the split direction of the existing bushings and any alignment marks on the sway bar — new bushings must be installed with the split facing the same direction.
- 2Support the sway barPlace a transmission jack or sturdy support under the center of the sway bar to prevent it from dropping when both brackets are loose. Apply only light upward pressure — do not preload it.
- 3Disconnect sway bar end links (if required for clearance)If bracket-only access is insufficient on this chassis, separate the sway bar from the end links by removing the link nuts. Hold the link's internal hex with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning. On reassembly, torque per spec.⚠Always counter-hold the end-link stud with an Allen key. Spinning the stud will destroy the link's internal seal and require link replacement.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 4Remove the sway bar bracket boltsUnbolt both front sway bar brackets from the subframe. Support the bar as the second bracket comes free. Set bolts aside in order — inspect threads and replace any corroded fasteners with manufacturer-specified equivalents.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
- 5Lower the bar and remove old bushingsLower the sway bar just enough to slide the brackets and old bushings off. The bushings are split — open them along the slit and peel off the bar. Clean the sway bar's bushing seats with a non-abrasive shop towel; do not use solvents that attack rubber.
- 6Inspect sway bar and bracketsCheck the sway bar's bushing surface for scoring, corrosion, or wear ridges. Inspect the brackets for cracks or distortion. Replace any damaged hardware. Verify the new bushing inner diameter matches the bar exactly — Model X has had multiple bar diameters across production.⚠Installing the wrong-diameter bushing will cause clunking and premature failure. Measure before installing.
- 7Install new bushingsOpen the new bushings at the split and seat them onto the sway bar in the same locations as the originals. Orient the split toward the direction specified by the manufacturer (typically forward or downward). If the bushings are supplied with a compatible lubricant, apply only that lubricant — never use petroleum grease, which will degrade the rubber.
- 8Reinstall bracketsPosition the sway bar so each bushing sits squarely in its bracket. Start both bracket bolts by hand on each side before torquing — this prevents cross-threading the aluminum subframe. Snug both sides evenly, then torque to spec.⚠The subframe is aluminum. Cross-threading is permanent damage. Hand-start every bolt.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
- 9Reconnect sway bar end links (if disconnected)Reattach the end links, counter-holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut to spec.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front aero underbody shield with all original fasteners; replace any broken push-pins.
- Reinstall front wheels (if removed) and snug lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground and torque lug nuts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
- Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk (negative terminal last). Reinstall any frunk trim removed for access.
- Close the frunk and allow the vehicle to wake. Exit Jack Mode is automatic once the vehicle resumes normal driving conditions, but verify air suspension returns to normal ride height before driving.
Verification
- Confirm air suspension self-levels to standard ride height after exiting Jack Mode — listen for compressor cycling and verify even ride height front-to-back.
- Check the touchscreen for any chassis, suspension, or 12V-related alerts after reconnecting the battery. Clear any transient warnings by cycling Drive.
- Test drive at low speed over uneven pavement and listen for clunks from the front sway bar area — a properly installed bushing is silent.
- Perform a sharp lane-change at moderate speed (in a safe area) to confirm body roll feels normal and symmetrical left/right.
- Re-inspect the brackets after the first 50-100 miles to confirm bolts have not loosened — re-torque if necessary.
- While underneath, take the opportunity to note the date — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years and cabin air filter every 2 years (3 years for HEPA-equipped X). If due, schedule those services.