steering
Tie Rod Assembly
for 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
10
Steps
10
Replacement of an outer tie rod end on a 2024 Model X Long Range. The inner tie rod and steering rack are not disturbed in this procedure; a four-wheel alignment is mandatory afterward.
Warnings
⚠️Tesla Model X has a floor-mounted HV battery pack. Place jack stands ONLY at OEM-designated lift points — lifting elsewhere can crush the pack and start a fire.
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. These are high-voltage and lethal.
⚠A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED after this job. The vehicle's lane keeping, autosteer, and Autopilot calibration depend on accurate front toe. Do not return the vehicle to service until alignment is complete.
⚠Falcon doors: keep the rear doors closed during this procedure and keep the key fob well away — accidental door operation while you're under the vehicle is a serious hazard.
⚠Aluminum suspension components — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a tie rod puller, not impact force.
ℹ️Air suspension is standard on Model X. Disable Jack Mode / suspension auto-leveling via the touchscreen before lifting, and do NOT let the vehicle attempt to self-level while on stands.
Tools required
Metric socket set (15-22mm)Essential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end puller / pickle forkEssential
Open-end wrench set (metric)Essential
Floor jack rated for EV curb weight (>5500 lb capacity)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV curb weightEssential
Tape measure or digital caliper (for thread-count reference)Essential
Cotter pin pliers / needle-nose pliersEssential
Wheel lock key (if equipped)
Penetrating oil
Parts
- Outer tie rod end assembly (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model X) × 1 — OEM Tesla replacement — verify by VIN
- Castle nut cotter pin × 1 — Manufacturer-specified split pin
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (negative terminal first). The 12V battery is located in the frunk on Model X.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Before lifting: on the touchscreen, enable Jack Mode (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling. Note: this must be done before disconnecting 12V; if already disconnected, reconnect briefly to set Jack Mode then disconnect again.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Lift the front of the vehicle at OEM-designated lift points only and support on rated jack stands. Confirm the vehicle is stable before going underneath.
- Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
- Turn the steering wheel toward the side being serviced to expose the tie rod end.
Procedure
- 1Document existing tie rod positionBefore loosening anything, count the exposed threads on the inner tie rod between the lock nut and the outer tie rod end, or measure the distance from the lock nut to a fixed reference on the outer tie rod. This gives you a starting toe setting close to original — the vehicle still MUST be aligned, but it will be drivable to the alignment shop.
- 2Loosen the tie rod lock nutHold the outer tie rod with one wrench and break loose the lock nut on the inner tie rod shaft with another. Do not fully remove it yet — back it off only enough to allow the outer tie rod to spin off later.
- 3Remove cotter pin and castle nutStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle. Then loosen and remove the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin — it must be replaced with a new one on reassembly.⚠Discard the old cotter pin. Reusing a cotter pin on a steering component is unsafe.
- 4Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckleUse a tie rod end puller to separate the tapered stud from the steering knuckle. Do not strike the knuckle with a hammer — Model X uses aluminum suspension components that can crack or deform. If the joint is stubborn, apply penetrating oil and allow it to soak.⚠Aluminum knuckle — use a puller, never a hammer/pickle-fork-and-mallet combo.
- 5Remove the outer tie rod endWhile counting full turns, unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft. Record the exact number of turns required to fully remove it — this is your reference for installing the new one.
- 6Inspect related componentsWith the tie rod removed, inspect the inner tie rod boot for tears or grease leakage, the steering rack boot, and the knuckle taper bore for wear or elongation. Any damage to the inner tie rod or rack boot should be addressed now — re-doing this job later means another alignment.
- 7Install the new outer tie rod endThread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod shaft using exactly the same number of turns counted during removal. This puts toe close to original, but does NOT replace a proper alignment.
- 8Reconnect tie rod end to steering knuckleInsert the tapered stud into the knuckle and install the castle nut. Torque the castle nut to specification, then continue tightening (do not back off) only as far as needed to align the next slot with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs over to lock.⚠Never loosen a castle nut to align the cotter pin slot — only tighten further to the next slot.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 9Snug the lock nut (do not final-torque yet)Hand-snug the inner tie rod lock nut against the new outer tie rod end. The final torque on this nut is applied AFTER alignment, when the alignment technician sets toe.ℹ️Final lock nut torque is applied after alignment, per the torque table.
- 10Reinstall wheelMount the front wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk (negative terminal last) and close the frunk.
- Re-enter the vehicle with the key fob; the air suspension will self-level — verify it rises to normal ride height with no faults on the touchscreen.
- Disable Jack Mode if it is still active.
- Drive the vehicle slowly and only as far as necessary to reach an alignment rack — toe is approximate at this point.
- Have a four-wheel alignment performed. After the alignment technician sets final toe, torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to specification while holding the outer tie rod stationary.
Verification
- Confirm no steering or chassis warnings on the Model X touchscreen after reconnection.
- With wheels straight ahead, verify the steering wheel is centered. If not centered after alignment, the alignment must be redone — do not 'fix' it by clocking the steering wheel.
- Test drive at low speed in a safe area: confirm no clunks, no pull, no looseness in steering.
- Verify Autopilot/Autosteer behaves normally on a known straight road. Lane drift after a tie rod replacement almost always indicates an alignment issue, not a camera issue — recheck alignment before recalibrating cameras.
- Visually re-inspect the new cotter pin and confirm both legs are bent over.
- Note: while not part of this job, this is a good opportunity to check Tesla's other interval-based items if due — brake fluid (every 2 years), cabin air filter (every 2 years, or 3 years for HEPA), and tire rotation (every ~6,250 mi).