Replacement of an inner tie rod end on a 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range. The inner tie rod threads into the steering rack and requires removal of the outer tie rod and a dedicated inner tie rod tool; a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this work.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Inner tie rod end (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model X) × 1 — OEM Tesla inner tie rod assembly — verify by VIN
• Steering rack bellows (boot) × 1 — OEM Tesla rack boot — replace if damaged on removal
• Boot clamps (inner large + outer small) × 1 — OEM-spec rack boot clamp set
• New cotter pin for outer tie rod castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located in the frunk, similar position to Model S). Open the frunk before disconnect, as the latch is electrically released.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V, enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) so the air suspension does not attempt to self-level while raised.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved jack pucks at the designated lift points and support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Mark or measure the exact position of the outer tie rod on the inner tie rod threads (count threads exposed or measure overall length) so toe is approximately preserved until alignment.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect work area for HV components
   Visually scan the front subframe, steering rack area, and inner fender for any orange-jacketed cables. The steering rack on Model X is electrically assisted (EPAS) — its harness is low-voltage (black), but confirm before proceeding. If any orange cabling is present in your work zone, STOP.
   ⚠️Orange = HV. Do not proceed if orange cabling is in the work area.
2. 2

   Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut and discard it. Loosen and remove the castle nut. Use a tie rod puller to separate the outer tie rod taper from the steering knuckle. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle.
   ⚠Pickle forks will tear the boot — use a proper puller.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the outer tie rod end (or unthread together)
   Loosen the tie rod lock nut on the inner tie rod shaft. Unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod, counting and recording the exact number of turns to keep toe close to original. Set the outer tie rod and lock nut aside.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Release and slide back the steering rack bellows (boot)
   Cut or release the inner (large) and outer (small) boot clamps. Inspect the boot for tears; if damaged, plan to replace. Slide the bellows toward the outboard side to expose the inner tie rod-to-rack joint. Note any grease condition — excessive contamination may indicate prior boot failure.
   ℹ️Replace boot clamps with new ones on reassembly — reused clamps often will not seal.
5. 5

   Hold the steering rack and break loose the inner tie rod
   Use a wrench on the flats of the steering rack shaft (if equipped) to hold the rack stationary — DO NOT allow the rack to rotate or slide internally, as this can damage the EPAS internals. Using the manufacturer-specified inner tie rod tool (crowfoot or splined socket sized to the joint), break loose and unthread the inner tie rod from the rack.
   ⚠Never let the rack shaft rotate freely while applying torque. Always counter-hold.
6. 6

   Inspect the rack threads and internals
   Inspect the rack-end threads for damage and the rack shaft for any pitting, scoring, or grease leakage from the rack body. If the rack itself shows damage or leaks, stop and refer to Tesla Service Manual — the rack is not field-serviceable beyond the inner tie rod.
   ℹ️If you find rack damage or fluid (EPAS racks should be dry/grease-only — any liquid is abnormal), do not proceed.
7. 7

   Install the new inner tie rod
   Apply thread locker only if specified by the new part's instructions (many inner tie rods come pre-applied — do not double-up). Thread the new inner tie rod into the rack by hand to avoid cross-threading, then torque to OEM specification using the inner tie rod tool while counter-holding the rack. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
   ⚠Do not guess this torque — inner tie rod-to-rack torque is typically high and critical. Consult the service manual if not provided with the part.
8. 8

   Reinstall the steering rack bellows with new clamps
   Reseat the bellows onto the rack housing and the inner tie rod. Ensure the boot is not twisted (it must allow the tie rod to articulate). Install new inner and outer boot clamps using boot clamp pliers.
   ℹ️A twisted boot will tear within a few thousand miles.
9. 9

   Reinstall outer tie rod end and lock nut
   Thread the lock nut onto the new inner tie rod, then thread the outer tie rod end on, returning it to the recorded number of turns / measured length. Do not final-torque the lock nut yet — that happens after alignment.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect outer tie rod to steering knuckle
    Insert the outer tie rod taper into the knuckle. Install a new castle nut, torque to spec, and install a NEW cotter pin. If the castellation does not align, tighten further (never loosen) to align.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern (Wheel Lug Nuts: 136 Nm / 100 lb-ft).
4. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk and close the frunk.
5. Power up the vehicle. Exit Jack Mode if it remains active. Allow the air suspension to self-level.
6. Drive at very low speed only (parking lot) directly to an alignment rack. Do not drive on public roads at uncorrected toe.

Verification

• Have a four-wheel alignment performed. After alignment is set, final-torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft) while holding the inner tie rod flats — do this without disturbing the alignment setting.
• Verify steering wheel is centered when driving straight; if off-center, alignment must be redone (do not 'fix' by clocking the steering wheel — Model X uses a steering angle sensor that will fault).
• Check for any EPAS or steering-related alerts on the touchscreen after a short test drive. The system may briefly require a steering angle relearn — drive lock-to-lock at low speed if a fault persists, then re-scan.
• Inspect the new inner tie rod boot after the test drive for proper seating and no twisting.
• Check under the vehicle for any displaced clamps or grease.
• Note: this is also a good time to verify Tesla's other recurring service items are current — brake fluid (2-year interval), cabin air filter (2 years; 3 years if HEPA/Bioweapon Defense), and tire rotation (~6,250 mi). Inner tie rod work commonly accompanies a tire wear complaint.

More procedures for this vehicle