Tie Rod End - Outer

Replace the outer tie rod end on a 2024 Model X Long Range. The outer tie rod connects the steering rack inner tie rod to the steering knuckle; replacement requires a post-job alignment.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (Model X 2024 specific, side-specific if applicable) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified OEM outer tie rod end for 2024 Model X
• New cotter pin for castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the frunk (lift frunk carpet/panel to access). Insulate the negative terminal.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting, ensure Falcon Wing doors are fully closed and that the air suspension is at standard ride height (set in vehicle menu before 12V disconnect if possible). Enable Jack Mode if available prior to disconnecting 12V to prevent the suspension from re-leveling.
7. Loosen the front lug nuts on the affected side while the wheel is still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using approved pucks and support on jack stands. Never work under the vehicle supported only by a jack.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, measure and record the exposed thread length between the outer tie rod end and the inner tie rod, or paint-mark the threads at the lock nut. This preserves a near-baseline toe setting and minimizes thread count error before alignment.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut (jam nut)
   Hold the inner tie rod with a wrench on its flats and break loose the lock nut where the outer tie rod threads into the inner. Back the lock nut off only enough to allow the outer tie rod to spin off — do not change its position on the threads relative to your reference mark.
   ⚠Do not grip the inner tie rod boot or rack housing with pliers — damaging the boot or rack will cause expensive rack replacement.
3. 3

   Remove cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end castle nut at the steering knuckle. Loosen and remove the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin — it must not be reused.
4. 4

   Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
   Use a tie rod end puller / ball joint separator to press the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle. Apply steady pressure; do not hammer the aluminum knuckle. If the boot will be reused (it won't, since the part is being replaced), protect it.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — striking it with a hammer can crack it. Use a proper separator tool.
5. 5

   Count threads and remove outer tie rod end
   While counting full rotations (or measuring exposed thread length against your reference mark), unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Record the exact count for installation reference.
6. 6

   Install new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod, matching the recorded thread count or exposed thread length exactly. This is your pre-alignment toe approximation only — final toe must be set on an alignment rack.
7. 7

   Seat tie rod stud into knuckle
   Insert the tapered stud of the new outer tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. If the cotter pin hole does not align, tighten further (never loosen) to the next slot, staying within spec.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Install new cotter pin
   Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and tie rod stud. Bend the legs to lock the pin in place. Never reuse the old cotter pin.
9. 9

   Snug lock nut (final torque after alignment)
   Hand-snug the tie rod lock nut against the outer tie rod end so the assembly does not rotate during the drive to alignment, but DO NOT final-torque it yet. Final torque is applied after the alignment shop sets toe.
   ℹ️Tie Rod Lock Nut final torque (68 Nm / 50 lb-ft) is applied AFTER alignment. Note this on the work order.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before any are tightened.
2. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
3. Lower the vehicle fully.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk. Reinstall any covers.
5. Close the frunk. Allow the vehicle to wake; the air suspension may re-level — keep clear.
6. After alignment is performed, hold the outer tie rod with a wrench and torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to specification.

Verification

• Drive the vehicle directly to an alignment shop equipped for Tesla Model X (heavy curb weight, air suspension at standard ride height during alignment). A four-wheel alignment is mandatory.
• After alignment, confirm the Tie Rod Lock Nut is torqued to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft).
• Verify steering wheel is centered when driving straight; if off, alignment must be redone — do not adjust by rotating the steering wheel on the column.
• Inspect for play: with wheels off the ground, grasp the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and rock — there should be no detectable play at the tie rod end.
• Check that no suspension or steering fault messages appear on the center display after a short test drive.
• Confirm cotter pin is installed and legs bent.
• Reminder: while servicing front suspension, this is a good time to verify front tire wear pattern — Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 mi due to instant torque and vehicle weight.

More procedures for this vehicle