Tie Rods - Both Sides

Replacement of both outer tie rod ends on a 2024 Model X Long Range. This procedure does not involve HV systems, but a four-wheel alignment is mandatory afterward.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (left) × 1 — Tesla Model X (Raven/refresh platform) OEM outer tie rod end — verify by VIN
• Outer tie rod end assembly (right) × 1 — Tesla Model X (Raven/refresh platform) OEM outer tie rod end — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin for tie rod castle nut × 2 — OEM-spec replacement cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk under the forward trim panel.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting: enter Service/Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to disable the air suspension self-leveling.
7. Chock the rear wheels. Loosen front lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack points using approved puck adapters. Support on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
9. Remove both front wheels.
10. Center the steering wheel and (if possible) lock it with the steering wheel lock or seat belt to prevent rotation while the tie rods are disconnected.

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark and measure existing tie rod position
   On each side, use a paint pen to mark the orientation of the outer tie rod relative to the inner shaft. Then use calipers to measure and record the exposed thread length between the lock nut and the outer tie rod end. This preserves a near-baseline toe setting until alignment is performed.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod shaft with an open-end wrench on the flats and loosen (do not remove) the lock nut against the outer tie rod end. Apply penetrating oil if seized. Repeat on the opposite side.
   ⚠Do not twist the inner tie rod boot or rack shaft — hold the flats only.
3. 3

   Remove cotter pin and castle nut at steering knuckle
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle. Remove the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin — it must be replaced with new on reassembly.
4. 4

   Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
   Use a tie rod end puller or ball joint separator to press the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle fork use if the boot will be reused (it tears boots), but for replacement parts a fork is acceptable. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — never strike with a steel hammer.
5. 5

   Count turns and unthread outer tie rod end
   While counting exact rotations, unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft. Record the number of turns for each side. This provides a rough toe baseline for the drive to alignment.
6. 6

   Install new outer tie rod ends
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft using the exact number of turns recorded in Step 5. Verify that the exposed thread length matches the measurement from Step 1. Snug the lock nut against the outer tie rod end but do not final-torque yet — final torque happens after alignment.
7. 7

   Reinstall tie rod end into steering knuckle
   Insert the tapered stud of the new tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to retain. If the castle nut slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved within spec.
   ⚠️Never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — always tighten further.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Repeat on opposite side
   Perform Steps 1–7 on the opposite side. Confirm both sides have approximately equal exposed thread length to keep the steering wheel near-centered for the drive to the alignment shop.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before any torquing.
2. Lower the vehicle until the tires just contact the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
3. Torque all lug nuts to specification (Wheel Lug Nuts).
4. Lower vehicle fully and remove jack stands.
5. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk.
6. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to self-level to standard ride height.
7. DO NOT final-torque the tie rod lock nuts yet — this is done at the alignment rack after toe is set (Tie Rod Lock Nut).
8. Drive carefully and directly to an alignment facility. Avoid highway speeds and aggressive maneuvers.

Verification

• After alignment, confirm the alignment technician has torqued both Tie Rod Lock Nuts to specification (68 Nm / 50 lb-ft).
• Verify steering wheel is centered when driving straight; if off-center, the alignment was not performed correctly or steering angle sensor needs recalibration via Tesla service tooling.
• Check for any 'Steering Assist Reduced' or chassis-related alerts on the touchscreen — none should be present.
• Inspect new cotter pins are fully bent and seated at both tie rod end studs.
• Visual check at full lock both directions for clearance between tie rod boot and adjacent components.
• Road test at low speed first, then highway speed — confirm no pull, no vibration, no clunks over bumps.
• Note: If the vehicle is also due for a tire rotation (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi), this is a convenient time to perform it since wheels are already off.

More procedures for this vehicle