Replacement of a rear trailing arm bushing on a 2024 Model X Long Range. The trailing arm locates the rear wheel longitudinally; bushing wear causes clunks, rear-end wander, and alignment drift. Air suspension complicates jacking and requires Transport/Jack Mode.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Trailing arm bushing (OEM or OEM-equivalent for 2024 Model X) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified trailing arm bushing for 2024 Model X rear suspension
• Rear alignment shims/hardware (if disturbed) × 1 — As required by alignment shop

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Before disconnecting 12V: in the touchscreen, go to Controls → Service → Jack Mode to disable air suspension self-leveling.
4. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery — located in the frunk under the forward access panel (similar position to Model S). Disconnect negative first.
5. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
6. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
7. Chock the front wheels.
8. Loosen rear lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
9. Lift the rear of the vehicle using only Tesla-approved lift points and rubber pucks. Support on rated jack stands.
10. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
11. Inspect for any orange HV cabling routing in the work area before proceeding. The HV pack is directly above — keep tooling clear of the pack underside.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and mark reference positions
   Visually inspect the trailing arm, its inboard chassis bushing mount, and the outboard knuckle attachment. Use a paint pen to mark the position of any cam/eccentric bolts and the orientation of the trailing arm relative to the chassis bracket. These reference marks help return alignment close to original.
2. 2

   Support the rear knuckle/hub assembly
   Place a secondary jack with a wood block under the rear knuckle to support the assembly. The trailing arm is a load-bearing locator — once disconnected, the knuckle will want to droop and stress the half-shaft, brake line, and ABS/parking-brake wiring.
   ⚠Do not let the half-shaft hang at full extension — it can damage the inner CV joint.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end link (if obstructing)
   If the sway bar end link interferes with trailing arm removal on this side, remove the lower end link nut. Hold the stud with an Allen key while loosening the nut. Swing the link clear.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove brake line / ABS / e-brake clips from trailing arm
   The trailing arm typically routes the rear ABS sensor lead and parking-brake harness via plastic clips. Gently release these clips so the harness can stay with the chassis when the arm drops. Do not pull on the wires.
   ⚠Damaged ABS sensor wiring will throw stability-control faults that require Tesla diagnostic clearing.
5. 5

   Loosen the outboard trailing arm bolt at the knuckle
   Break loose but do not yet remove the outboard bolt connecting the trailing arm to the rear knuckle. Note the orientation of any washers or eccentric hardware.
6. 6

   Loosen the inboard trailing arm pivot bolt at the chassis bracket
   Break loose the inboard bolt that passes through the bushing into the chassis bracket. This is the primary bolt clamping the bushing being replaced. Penetrating oil may be useful if the vehicle has seen winter use.
   ⚠Do not heat the bracket — the chassis subframe is aluminum and heating will weaken it.
7. 7

   Remove trailing arm
   Fully remove the inboard pivot bolt, then the outboard bolt. Lower the trailing arm out of the vehicle. Inspect the bushing sleeves and the chassis bracket bores for ovaling, corrosion, or cracks.
8. 8

   Press out the old bushing
   Secure the trailing arm in a vise with soft jaws or set up in a hydraulic press. Using a bushing removal tool kit with the correct cup sizes, press the old bushing OUT in the manufacturer-specified direction. Keep pressure square — angled pressing will gall the arm bore.
   ⚠Aluminum trailing arm bores are easily damaged. Never use a torch or chisel to remove the bushing.
9. 9

   Clean and inspect the bore
   Clean the trailing arm bushing bore with a non-residue solvent. Inspect for cracks, scoring, or out-of-round wear. If the bore is damaged, the trailing arm itself must be replaced — do not attempt to install a new bushing into a damaged bore.
10. 10

    Press in the new bushing
    Apply only the lubricant specified by the bushing manufacturer (typically a thin film of soapy water or rubber-safe assembly lube — NEVER petroleum grease on a rubber bushing). Align any clocking marks or void orientation per the manufacturer-specified bracket alignment. Press IN squarely until the bushing is fully seated to the specified depth.
    ⚠Bushing void/clocking orientation matters. Installing rotated 90° will cause premature failure and altered ride characteristics.
11. 11

    Reinstall trailing arm to vehicle
    Lift the trailing arm into position. Start the inboard pivot bolt and the outboard knuckle bolt by hand. Ensure paint-pen reference marks line up. Do NOT fully torque yet — bolts must be snugged only until vehicle weight is on the wheels.
12. 12

    Reattach harness clips and sway bar link
    Re-clip the ABS sensor and parking-brake harness into their retainers on the trailing arm. Reattach the sway bar end link if it was removed and torque to spec.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel. Snug the lug nuts, then lower the vehicle so that full weight rests on the tires (or simulate ride height on a drive-on lift). Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Final-torque suspension fasteners at ride height
    With vehicle weight on the wheels, final-torque the inboard trailing arm pivot bolt and the outboard knuckle bolt to the manufacturer-specified value (treated as Control Arm Bolts spec on this chassis). This prevents the new bushing from being preloaded in twist.
    ⚠️Failure to torque at ride height will destroy the new bushing within months and can cause loss of rear-axle location at speed.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify all harness clips are seated and no wires are pinched between the trailing arm and chassis.
2. Reconnect the 12V battery (positive first, then negative) in the frunk.
3. Close the frunk and re-enter the vehicle. The touchscreen will reboot — wait for full boot.
4. Exit Jack Mode through the touchscreen (Controls → Service). The air suspension will re-level — stand clear during this process.
5. Drive forward and reverse a few feet on level ground to settle the suspension before alignment.

Verification

• No suspension or stability-control warnings should appear on the instrument cluster after the 12V is reconnected. If ABS, traction control, or air-suspension faults appear, a Tesla diagnostic scan is required.
• Air suspension should self-level normally to the last selected ride height. If it remains in Jack Mode or fails to level, re-check Service menu settings.
• Perform a four-wheel alignment immediately. Rear toe and camber will be out of spec until aligned.
• Test drive at low speed over expansion joints and uneven pavement — listen for clunks from the rear. A properly installed trailing arm bushing produces no impact noise.
• After 100–200 miles, recheck the inboard and outboard trailing arm bolt torque. Aluminum-on-steel joints can settle.
• While the rear suspension is apart is a good time to verify other Model X service intervals: brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2-3 years (HEPA), drive unit gear oil per current Tesla guidance (12,500 mi initial then 25,000-50,000 mi), and battery coolant inspection at 4 yr / 50,000 mi.

More procedures for this vehicle