Long Range Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
8 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Founding sponsor spot is openYour name on every procedure for this vehicle, permanently.Sponsor — $99 →
suspension

Upper Control Arm - Rear

for 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
11
Steps
12
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replacement of a rear upper control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range. The rear suspension uses a multi-link aluminum design with air suspension; final torque on the control arm pivot bolts must be done at ride height with the vehicle's weight on the wheels.

Warnings

⚠️Air suspension: before lifting, place vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to prevent the system from trying to self-level while raised. Failure to do so can damage the air struts or cause the vehicle to shift on the lift.
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange HV cable. The HV pack is floor-mounted directly beneath you — keep all lift arms and jack pads on Tesla-designated lift points only.
Falcon doors: keep the rear falcon doors CLOSED during this repair. Do not lean on or hang weight from an open falcon door — the hinge assembly is sensitive and is the most common service item on Model X.
Aluminum suspension components — do not strike directly with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or brass drift, and do not heat aluminum to free fasteners.
Final torque on the control arm pivot bolts MUST be done with the suspension loaded at normal ride height. Torquing at full droop will pre-load the bushing and lead to premature failure.
ℹ️A four-wheel alignment is required after this repair — at minimum, rear camber and toe will be affected.

Tools required

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk (front trunk) under the forward access panel. Follow the on-screen and labeled disconnect sequence.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Before disconnecting 12V, enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen so the air suspension does not attempt to adjust ride height while lifted.
  7. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while tires are still on the ground.
  8. Raise the vehicle on Tesla-designated lift points only (factory pinch-weld pads on the rocker reinforcements). Do NOT lift on the battery pack or subframe.
  9. Support the vehicle on jack stands rated for Model X weight; chock the front wheels.
  10. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
  11. Inspect the rear upper control arm, ball joint boot, bushings, and surrounding fasteners. Photograph the orientation and any alignment cam marks before disassembly.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Support the rear knuckle
    Place a service/transmission jack under the rear lower control arm or knuckle to support the assembly. Snug it up but do not lift the suspension — the goal is only to prevent the knuckle from dropping when the upper arm is released.
    Do not place the jack under the air strut, half-shaft, or HV pack. Use the lower arm or knuckle as the load point.
  2. 2
    Remove any harnesses or ABS/wear-sensor clips routed on the upper arm
    Carefully unclip the rear ABS speed sensor harness and any ride-height sensor or pad-wear sensor wiring secured to the upper control arm or its bracketry. Set wiring aside so it is not strained when the arm is removed.
  3. 3
    Disconnect the upper control arm ball joint from the knuckle
    Hold the ball stud (typically with an internal hex on the stud end) and remove the ball joint nut from the upper knuckle. Separate the taper using a ball joint separator or by carefully tapping the knuckle ear with a dead-blow — do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a steel hammer. Do not damage the boot if reusing the joint, though on a control arm replacement the joint is part of the new arm.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Mark and remove the inboard pivot bolt
    If the inboard mount uses an alignment cam, mark the cam position relative to the subframe with a paint pen so initial alignment is preserved. Remove the inboard pivot nut and withdraw the through-bolt. The arm should now be free.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Remove the upper control arm
    Maneuver the arm out of the subframe pocket and away from the knuckle. Note orientation (front/rear, top/bottom) before setting it on the bench next to the new part.
    Do not pry against the air strut body or any HV/cooling lines routed in the rear well.
  6. 6
    Compare old vs new arm
    Lay the new arm next to the old one. Confirm bushing orientation, ball joint stud direction, and any clocking features match. Transfer any reusable hardware only if the OEM procedure permits — replace any one-time-use fasteners.
  7. 7
    Install the new upper control arm — inboard pivot
    Position the new arm in the subframe pocket. Insert the pivot bolt in the original direction. Install the nut and snug it only — do NOT final-torque yet. If a cam bolt is present, align to the paint mark made earlier.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  8. 8
    Connect the ball joint to the upper knuckle
    Seat the ball stud taper into the knuckle. Install a new ball joint nut. Counter-hold the stud with the appropriate hex if it spins, and torque to specification.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Reattach harnesses and clips
    Re-secure the ABS sensor harness and any other wiring/clips that were released, in the original routing. Verify no harness is pinched or contacting a moving suspension surface.
  10. 10
    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to ride height
    Mount the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so the full curb weight is on the tires (or use a drive-on lift / wheel cribs that simulate ride height). The suspension must be at normal loaded ride height before final-torquing the inboard pivot bolt.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Final-torque the control arm inboard pivot bolt at ride height
    With the vehicle's weight on the wheels, final-torque the inboard pivot bolt/nut to specification. This is critical — torquing at droop will pre-stress the bushing and shorten its life.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Final-torque the wheel lug nuts
    Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern on the ground or with weight on the wheels.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk and reinstall the access panel.
  2. Exit Jack Mode on the touchscreen — the air suspension will re-level. Watch that the corner serviced rises evenly with the others.
  3. Cycle the vehicle through Low / Standard / High ride height settings to confirm the air suspension responds normally and there are no fault messages.
  4. Drive the vehicle a short distance at low speed and listen for clunks, binding, or air-suspension faults.
  5. Schedule and perform a four-wheel alignment — rear camber and toe are affected by upper control arm replacement on Model X.

Verification

  • No suspension, ABS, or air-suspension fault messages on the touchscreen after a key cycle and short test drive.
  • Vehicle sits level side-to-side at Standard ride height; measured fender-to-ground heights left vs right are within Tesla spec.
  • Visual check: ball joint boot intact, no contact between harnesses and moving components, no marks indicating bushing twist after the first drive cycle.
  • Four-wheel alignment completed and within Tesla 2024 Model X specification — keep the printout with the service record.
  • Re-torque check of the inboard pivot bolt and ball joint nut after the first 100 miles is good practice on aluminum suspension.
  • Note: this job does not affect Tesla's recommended service intervals (brake fluid every 2 years, cabin filter every 3 years on HEPA-equipped Model X, rear drive unit fluid per current Tesla recommendation, tire rotation every 6,250 mi). Use this lift event as an opportunity to check those items if due.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

🔧Stuck on this upper control arm - rear? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Tesla within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
⚠ STILL BEHIND THE PAYWALL
The 2024 Tesla Model X repair data is incomplete because no one has sponsored it yet. For $99, we generate the full step-by-step procedures, then fact-check them with a second AI pass and your expert review. Your name on every procedure, permanently.
The same data would cost $169/mo from Mitchell1 or $30/year from ALLDATAdiy — and you'd be renting access, not freeing it. Sponsor once, free forever.
Sponsor the Tesla Model X — $99 →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 10 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →