drivetrain
Wheel Bearing Hub - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.2 h
Tools
15
Steps
11
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replacement of a rear wheel bearing hub assembly on a 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range. The hub is bolted to the rear knuckle and retains the outer CV stub via the axle nut; air suspension and the parking brake integration require attention specific to this platform.
Warnings
⚠️Falcon doors: keep clear and DO NOT operate them while the vehicle is on jack stands. Body flex from improper lifting can cause sensor faults or door binding requiring re-calibration.
⚠️Air suspension: with the 12V disconnected, the system cannot self-level. Disable Jack Mode is unavailable once 12V is removed — set Jack Mode in the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V.
⚠Use only Tesla-approved jack points. The HV battery is floor-mounted; lifting on the battery case will cause catastrophic damage.
⚠Aluminum suspension components — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a dead blow or brass drift only.
⚠Axle nut is single-use and CRITICAL. Always replace and torque to spec; an under-torqued nut will destroy the new bearing rapidly.
ℹ️After 12V reconnection, the vehicle may report air suspension, ABS, and TPMS faults that clear after a short drive cycle. If they persist, a Tesla service center scan tool is required.
Tools required
Floor jack with rated capacity for Model X (~5,500 lb curb weight)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV curb weightEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (to protect battery and pinch welds)Essential
Torque wrench, 1/2" drive (up to ~250 Nm)Essential
Torque wrench, 3/8" drive (low range for ABS sensor bolt)Essential
Breaker bar, 1/2" driveEssential
Axle nut socket (large, typically 32-36mm — verify before purchase)Essential
Triple-square / XZN bit set (for CV/axle hardware if equipped)
Hex/Torx bit setEssential
Slide hammer or hub puller
Brake caliper hanger / bungeeEssential
Soft-face dead blow mallet (NO steel hammer on aluminum components)Essential
Wire brush
Threadlocker (medium strength, blue)Essential
Anti-seize (for hub mating face — use sparingly)
Parts
- Rear wheel bearing hub assembly × 1 — OEM Tesla Model X rear hub (verify by VIN — Raven/refresh hubs differ from earlier Model X)
- Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM-spec single-use rear axle nut
- Hub mounting bolts (replace if specified by service manual) × 4 — OEM-spec hub-to-knuckle bolts
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- On the touchscreen, enable Jack Mode (Service menu) to disable air suspension self-leveling BEFORE disconnecting the 12V.
- Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (frunk-mounted on Model X). Insulate the negative terminal.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Loosen (do not remove) the rear axle nut while the wheel is on the ground — the vehicle's weight prevents hub rotation. This is the safest method.
- Lift the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using approved pucks. Support on rated jack stands.
Procedure
- 1Remove rear wheelRemove the lug nuts and pull the wheel straight off. Set aside on a soft surface to avoid scratching the finish.
- 2Remove brake caliper and bracketRemove the two caliper guide pin bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor. Support the caliper with a hanger — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Then remove the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the knuckle and set the bracket aside.⚠If the parking brake actuator (electric) is integrated into the rear caliper, do not disconnect its harness without first putting the caliper into service mode via the touchscreen if available; otherwise leave the caliper supported and undisturbed.
- 3Remove brake rotorRemove any rotor retaining screw if fitted, then slide the rotor off the hub. If seized, apply penetrant to the hub center and tap evenly with a dead blow — do not strike the rotor face.
- 4Disconnect ABS sensorLocate the ABS/wheel speed sensor on the knuckle. Remove the retaining bolt and carefully pull the sensor straight out. Set it aside where it will not be damaged. Inspect the sensor tip and tone ring for debris.⚠Do not pry on the ABS sensor — the tip is brittle and a damaged sensor will trigger ABS/Stability faults.
- 5Separate outer CV joint from hubRemove the (now loosened) rear axle nut and discard it — it is single-use. Push the outer CV stub axle inward through the hub splines. If the splines are corroded, apply penetrant and tap with a soft drift on the stub end. Support the half-shaft with wire so it does not hang on the inner CV.⚠Do not let the half-shaft dangle by the inner CV joint — this can damage the inner tripod and contaminate the grease.Torque specAxle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
- 6Remove hub assembly from knuckleFrom behind the knuckle, remove the four hub-to-knuckle mounting bolts. Withdraw the hub assembly forward out of the knuckle bore. If seized in the bore, use a hub puller or carefully tap from the rear with a brass drift — never strike the aluminum knuckle directly with steel.⚠The knuckle is aluminum. Avoid prying against the knuckle face or scoring the bore.Torque specWheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 7Clean knuckle bore and mating surfaceWire-brush the knuckle bore and bolt holes. Remove all corrosion, dirt, and old threadlocker. The hub must seat flush against a clean mating surface — any debris will cock the bearing and cause premature failure or ABS air-gap issues.
- 8Install new hub assemblyPosition the new hub into the knuckle, ensuring the ABS tone ring (integrated into the hub) faces correctly toward the sensor bore. Hand-thread all four hub bolts (with fresh threadlocker if specified by the service manual) before torquing in a cross pattern.Torque specWheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 9Reinstall outer CV stub through hubSlide the outer CV splines through the new hub. Install a NEW axle nut finger-tight. Final torque is applied with the wheel back on the ground (see reassembly).
- 10Reinstall ABS sensorApply a small amount of silicone grease to the sensor o-ring/shaft, seat the sensor fully into the knuckle bore, and install the retaining bolt.
- 11Reinstall rotor and caliperPlace the rotor on the hub. Reinstall the caliper bracket with fresh medium-strength threadlocker on the bracket bolts. Reinstall the caliper over the rotor and torque the guide pin bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle until the tire firmly contacts the ground (weight on the wheel).
- Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to spec (Wheel Lug Nuts).
- Final-torque the new axle nut to spec (Axle Nut) — this is CRITICAL; under-torque will destroy the new bearing.
- Fully lower the vehicle.
- Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk and close the frunk.
- Power the vehicle on; the air suspension will re-level. Exit Jack Mode if it is still active.
- Allow the vehicle to sit for 1-2 minutes for the suspension to settle and any transient faults to clear.
Verification
- Touchscreen: confirm no active alerts for ABS, Stability Control, Traction Control, or Air Suspension after a key cycle.
- Press the brake pedal several times before driving — pedal should be firm and consistent.
- Low-speed roll test in a safe area: listen for grinding, humming, or clicking from the repaired corner. A new bearing should be silent.
- Test drive at 25-45 mph in a straight line and through gentle turns — bearing noise typically changes with load transfer left vs right.
- Recheck axle nut torque after the test drive — the splines can settle. Re-torque to spec (Axle Nut).
- After ~50 miles, recheck wheel lug nut torque (Wheel Lug Nuts).
- Service interval reminder: this is a good opportunity to inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and check rear drive unit gear oil if it has not been serviced per Tesla's updated 25,000-50,000 mi recommendation.