Replace the front lower ball joint on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. On this platform the lower ball joint is integrated into the front lower control arm assembly — the ball joint is not serviced separately, the control arm is replaced as a unit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm assembly (includes integrated lower ball joint) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model Y front lower control arm — confirm left/right side
• Steering knuckle pinch bolt × 1 — Manufacturer-specified single-use pinch bolt
• Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut (if applicable) × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y the 12V (Li-ion) battery is located under the rear cargo area trim — remove the trim panel and disconnect the negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Service Mode if available, or at minimum disable Sentry Mode and place vehicle in Tow/Jack Mode via the touchscreen to prevent suspension self-leveling logic and false alarms.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using rubber pucks. Support on jack stands rated for the curb weight (~4,400 lb).
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and confirm failure
   With the wheel off, grasp the lower control arm and check for play at the ball joint by levering up/down between the arm and knuckle. Inspect the boot for tears and grease loss. Confirm the lower ball joint (not tie rod, not upper link) is the worn component before proceeding.
2. 2

   Remove front aero/underbody shielding as needed
   Remove the front lower aero shield fasteners (mix of plastic push clips and small Torx bolts) to gain access to the lower control arm inner pivot bolts. Set hardware aside in a labeled tray.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end link from lower arm (if attached there) or strut
   On Model Y the sway bar end link attaches to the strut, not the lower arm. If access requires, disconnect the lower end of the sway bar link by holding the stud with an Allen key and removing the nut. Otherwise skip.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate ball joint stud from steering knuckle
   Locate the pinch bolt clamping the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle (Model Y uses a pinch-clamp design on the lower knuckle). Remove and DISCARD the pinch bolt — it is single-use. Spread the knuckle clamp slot slightly with a pry tool and tap the knuckle downward off the ball joint stud using a dead-blow mallet. If the stud uses a castle nut and cotter pin design instead, remove the cotter pin, loosen the castle nut, and separate using a tie-rod-style puller — do not use a pickle fork that will tear the boot if the joint is being reused (it isn't here, so a pickle fork is acceptable).
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle/hub assembly hang by the brake hose or wheel speed sensor harness. Support it with a bungee or stand.
   Torque spec

   Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Disconnect any harness clips on the control arm
   Release wheel speed sensor harness clips or brake line retainers that are routed along the lower control arm. Note their orientation for reassembly.
6. 6

   Remove inner control arm pivot bolts
   Remove the two inner pivot bolts (front and rear bushing) attaching the lower control arm to the front subframe. These are long, high-torque bolts — use a breaker bar. Note bolt orientation and any cam/eccentric washers; mark their position with a paint pen before removal to preserve approximate alignment.
   ⚠If eccentric alignment cams are present, mark them. Even with marks, an alignment is mandatory after this job.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the lower control arm
   Maneuver the control arm down and out of the subframe. Compare old vs new arm side-by-side: bushing orientation, ball joint stud taper, and any sensor brackets must match. Confirm left/right correctness.
8. 8

   Install new lower control arm — inner bushings first
   Position the new control arm into the subframe pockets. Install the inner pivot bolts hand-tight only. Do NOT final-torque yet — bushings must be clocked at ride height.
9. 9

   Engage ball joint stud into knuckle
   Lift the steering knuckle onto the new ball joint stud. Ensure the stud is fully seated (the groove for the pinch bolt must align with the bolt hole, OR for castle-nut designs the cotter pin hole must clear the nut slot). Install a NEW pinch bolt and torque to spec. If the design uses a castle nut, torque the ball joint nut to spec and install a NEW cotter pin — never back off the nut to align the cotter pin hole, only tighten further.
   ⚠️A loose or under-torqued lower ball joint will separate at speed and cause loss of steering control. Verify torque with a calibrated wrench.
   Torque spec

   Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reattach harness clips and sway bar link (if disconnected)
    Re-route wheel speed sensor and brake line retainers in their original positions. Reattach sway bar end link if it was disconnected, holding the stud with an Allen key and torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to load suspension
    Install the wheel, hand-snug the lugs, and lower the vehicle so the suspension is at normal ride height with full vehicle weight on the wheels. This is required before final-torquing the control arm pivot bolts.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque inner control arm bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle at ride height (drive-on ramps or a flush-floor lift work well), torque both inner control arm pivot bolts to spec. This sets the bushing rest position correctly and prevents premature bushing failure.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final-torque wheel lug nuts
    Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Reinstall underbody/aero shielding
    Reinstall the front aero shield and any push clips. Tighten small fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery negative terminal and reinstall trim.
2. Power the vehicle on. Allow the system to complete its self-checks; expect transient ABS/stability messages until the vehicle is driven a short distance.
3. Exit Tow/Jack mode and re-enable Sentry Mode if used.

Verification

• Confirm no play at the ball joint by levering the knuckle relative to the arm — there should be zero perceptible movement.
• Inspect the new ball joint boot for proper seating and no tears.
• Verify the pinch bolt (or castle nut + new cotter pin) is correctly installed and torqued.
• Take the vehicle for a low-speed test drive in an empty area: check for clunks over bumps, steering pull, and abnormal tire scrub.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — Model Y is highly sensitive to alignment and will chew tires quickly if camber/toe is off.
• Note: This is an opportune time to inspect the cabin air filter (2-year interval), brake fluid condition (2-year interval), and rotate tires if approaching the 6,250 mi interval.

More procedures for this vehicle