Ball Joint - Upper

Replace the front upper ball joint on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. On this platform the upper ball joint is integral to the upper control arm (UCA) — the ball joint is not serviced separately, so this procedure replaces the entire upper control arm assembly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Upper Control Arm Assembly (includes upper ball joint) × 1 — Tesla Model Y front upper control arm — OEM or OE-equivalent; specify left or right side
• New cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin sized to ball joint stud
• New pinch bolt (if disturbed during separation) × 1 — OEM-spec single-use pinch bolt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y the 12V (Li-ion) battery is accessed under the front trunk trim — follow the manufacturer-specified disconnection sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting — this disables auto-leveling/load-sensing routines and prevents fault codes.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack points using puck adapters and support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight.
9. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
10. Confirm you have the correct side (LH/RH) upper control arm assembly before starting.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   With the wheel off, inspect the upper ball joint boot, control arm, knuckle, and surrounding components. Confirm the failure is the upper ball joint (play when levered, torn boot, or audible knock). Photograph routing of any wiring/clips along the upper arm so you can restore it correctly.
2. 2

   Support the knuckle
   Place a jack stand or transmission jack lightly under the lower control arm / knuckle to support the assembly. This prevents the knuckle from dropping under brake/halfshaft weight when the upper ball joint is released and avoids straining the outer CV joint and brake hose.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang freely — it will overextend the outer CV joint on this AWD vehicle.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and loosen the ball joint nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut. Loosen but do not yet fully remove the castle nut — leave it threaded on flush with the stud tip to catch the knuckle when the taper releases.
4. 4

   Break the ball joint taper
   Separate the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using a tie rod / ball joint separator tool. Avoid pickle-fork style tools if you intend to reuse anything — they will tear the boot. Once the taper pops free, fully remove the castle nut and lift the stud out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Do not hammer directly on the aluminum knuckle. If using shock to break the taper, strike the knuckle ear with a brass or dead-blow tool and only as a last resort.
5. 5

   Remove the upper control arm inboard fasteners
   At the inboard (chassis) end of the upper control arm, remove the bolt(s) securing the arm to the body/frame bracket. Note the orientation of any cam/eccentric washers if equipped — these affect alignment. Support the arm as the last fastener comes out.
   ℹ️If alignment cam bolts are present, mark their position before removal so the alignment is approximately preserved until a proper alignment is performed.
6. 6

   Remove the upper control arm
   Maneuver the upper control arm out of the chassis bracket and clear of the strut tower / wheel well. Release any retained wiring clips or sensor harness routed along the arm without straining the wires.
7. 7

   Compare old and new arms
   Place the old and new arms side by side. Verify bushing orientation, ball joint stud direction, length, and any sensor brackets match. Confirm side-specific (LH/RH) marking. Transfer any reusable hardware or boot shields per the manufacturer specification.
8. 8

   Install the new upper control arm — inboard side
   Position the new upper control arm into the chassis bracket. Insert the inboard bolt(s), restoring any alignment cam orientation marks. Hand-tighten only at this stage — final torque occurs with the suspension loaded.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Seat the ball joint into the knuckle
   Guide the upper ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and tighten progressively to draw the taper home. Do not spin the stud — if the stud spins, hold it with the Allen flat (if provided) per the manufacturer's instructions.
10. 10

    Torque the ball joint nut and install new cotter pin
    Torque the upper ball joint castle nut to specification. If the castle slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) to the next slot. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to fully retain the nut.
    ⚠️Never loosen a castle nut to align the cotter pin slot — always tighten to the next slot. A loose ball joint can separate at speed.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Restore wiring and clips
    Re-route any harness, ABS sensor lead, or brake hose retainers along the upper arm exactly as photographed earlier. Confirm nothing is pinched between the arm and chassis.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at normal ride height (tire bearing vehicle weight) before final-torquing the inboard control arm bolt(s).
3. With the vehicle weight on the wheels, torque the upper control arm inboard bolt(s) to the Control Arm Bolts specification (165 Nm / 122 lb-ft).
4. Torque the wheel lug nuts to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the reverse order of removal.
6. Exit Jack Mode on the touchscreen and allow suspension/ABS systems to re-initialize.
7. Take the vehicle for an alignment immediately — do not delay driving on uncorrected geometry.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock — there should be zero perceptible play at the upper ball joint.
• Check the touchscreen for any chassis, ABS, or steering fault indicators after the first power-up.
• Test drive at low speed and listen for clunks over bumps and during steering lock-to-lock; an improperly seated ball joint will knock.
• Confirm steering wheel is centered after alignment; if not, return to the alignment shop — Model Y is sensitive to toe and camera-based lane-keeping calibration.
• Have a 4-wheel alignment performed and retain the printout. Note: due to Model Y's heavy curb weight and instant torque, follow Tesla's recommended tire rotation every 6,250 miles to maximize tire life after this repair.
• If any front camera shows uncalibrated on the touchscreen after alignment, drive the vehicle on well-marked roads to allow Autopilot cameras to recalibrate.

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