Back to 2024 Tesla Model Y

2024 TESLA MODEL Y

Long Range Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
5 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs87Labor363Torque4119Fluid8DTC557Battery0Maintenance0Recalls5
suspension

Ball Joints - Upper and Lower

for 2024 Tesla Model Y Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
15

Replace the front upper and lower ball joints on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. On this platform the upper ball joint is integral to the upper control arm (link assembly) and is serviced as a unit; the lower ball joint is pressed into the lower control arm and is also typically replaced as an assembly.

Warnings

⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange high-voltage cabling running along the underbody. If you are unsure whether a cable is HV, STOP.
⚠️Tesla front suspension components are largely aluminum (knuckle, control arms). Striking with a steel hammer will crack/deform them. Use a dead-blow or brass drift only.
After replacing any front suspension control arm or ball joint, a 4-wheel alignment is mandatory. Tesla alignment specs are tight; driving long distances unaligned will destroy expensive tires quickly on this heavy AWD.
Do NOT jack on battery pack edges or pinch welds without Tesla-spec puck adapters. Lifting in the wrong location can damage the HV pack enclosure.
Final torque on control arm bolts must be applied with suspension loaded at ride height — torquing at full droop will pre-stress the bushings and shorten their life.
ℹ️Cotter pins and the knuckle pinch bolt are single-use. Always replace.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack stands (rated for EV curb weight)Essential
Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Metric socket and wrench setEssential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie rod separatorEssential
Hub puller (if hub is seized in knuckle)
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar link shaft)Essential
Cotter pin pliers / needle-nose pliersEssential
Dead-blow or rubber mallet (NO steel hammer on aluminum)Essential
Wheel chocksEssential
Tesla puck-style jack pad adaptersEssential

Parts

  • Upper control arm assembly (contains upper ball joint) × 2 — OEM Model Y front upper link/ball joint assembly
  • Lower control arm assembly (contains lower ball joint) — or pressed-in lower ball joint if serviced separately × 2 — OEM Model Y front lower control arm
  • Ball joint castle nut (if not reusable) × 4 — OEM-spec castle nut
  • Cotter pin × 4 — OEM-spec cotter pin
  • Steering knuckle pinch bolt (single-use) × 2 — OEM-spec single-use pinch bolt

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on Model Y). Follow Tesla's documented disconnect sequence to avoid module faults.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V (Service > Jack Mode) to disable self-leveling logic and stop accidental drive engagement.
  7. Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
  8. Raise the vehicle using Tesla-specified jack points with puck adapters and support on rated jack stands. Never work under a car held only by a jack.
  9. Remove front wheels.
  10. Inspect for orange HV cabling routing in the work area before proceeding.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Document alignment baseline
    Before disassembly, mark the position of any eccentric/cam bolts on the lower control arm with a paint pen. This will not eliminate the need for an alignment but provides a sane starting point and helps detect movement during reassembly.
  2. 2
    Disconnect sway bar end link from strut
    Hold the sway bar end link stud with an Allen key on its internal hex while loosening the nut. Swing the link out of the way. Inspect the link bushings/boots — replace if torn.
    Do not use an impact gun on the end link without holding the shaft — you will spin and ruin the joint.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  3. 3
    Separate outer tie rod from knuckle (for working clearance)
    Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the outer tie rod end. Use a tie rod separator (not a pickle fork if you wish to reuse it). Swing aside.
  4. 4
    Loosen knuckle pinch bolt and free upper ball joint
    Locate the pinch bolt clamping the upper ball joint stud into the top of the steering knuckle. Remove and discard the pinch bolt (single-use). Spread the knuckle slot slightly with a wedge if needed and pop the upper ball joint stud out of the knuckle. Swing the upper control arm upward and out of the way.
    Do not pry against any orange HV component or the brake caliper bracket. Aluminum knuckle — never wedge with excessive force or use a steel chisel.
    Torque spec
    Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Support the knuckle/hub assembly
    Before separating the lower ball joint, sling the steering knuckle to the strut or coil with a strap or bungee so it cannot fall and damage the CV axle, ABS sensor wiring, or brake hose.
    Letting the knuckle hang on the CV axle can damage the inner CV joint.
  6. 6
    Separate lower ball joint from knuckle
    Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the lower ball joint stud. Use a ball joint separator tool to break the taper. Lower the control arm away from the knuckle.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  7. 7
    Remove the upper control arm (with integral upper ball joint)
    Unbolt the upper control arm from its inboard mounting point on the body/shock tower. Note hardware orientation. Remove the arm. The upper ball joint is integral; install the new arm assembly.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  8. 8
    Remove the lower control arm (with lower ball joint)
    Unbolt the lower control arm at its inboard pivot(s) on the subframe. Note any cam/eccentric bolt positions previously marked. Remove the arm. If the lower ball joint is serviced as a pressed-in component, refer to Tesla Service Manual procedure for press tooling — otherwise install a new lower control arm assembly.
    ℹ️On Model Y, replacing the entire lower control arm is the manufacturer-preferred path — the ball joint is not designed for field pressing in most cases.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Install new lower control arm
    Position the new lower control arm to the subframe. Install bolts hand-tight only at this stage — final torque is applied at ride height. Reposition any cam bolts to your alignment marks.
  10. 10
    Install new upper control arm
    Position the new upper control arm to its inboard mounting point. Install bolts hand-tight at this stage.
  11. 11
    Reconnect lower ball joint to knuckle
    Lift the lower control arm and seat the lower ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and torque to spec, then advance (never back off) to the next slot to align the cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs properly.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Reconnect upper ball joint to knuckle
    Seat the upper ball joint stud into the top of the knuckle. Install a NEW pinch bolt and torque to spec.
    Torque spec
    Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Reattach tie rod end and sway bar link
    Reinstall the outer tie rod into the knuckle with castle nut and a NEW cotter pin (torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual). Reattach the sway bar end link, holding the shaft with an Allen key.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  14. 14
    Final torque control arm bolts at ride height
    Reinstall wheels, hand-tighten lugs, and lower vehicle so suspension is loaded at normal ride height (drive-on ramps or wheel cribs ideal). Final-torque the upper and lower control arm inboard bolts to spec. This is critical — torquing at full droop will pre-load and prematurely fail the bushings.
    Skipping this step is the #1 cause of premature bushing failure on Model 3/Y front suspension.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  15. 15
    Final torque wheels
    Torque lug nuts in a star pattern. Re-verify after a short drive.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
  2. Power on the vehicle; allow it to fully boot. Exit Jack Mode.
  3. Clear any chassis/ABS faults shown on the touchscreen by cycling the vehicle if necessary.
  4. Perform a 4-wheel alignment immediately — Model Y is highly sensitive to camber/toe and will chew tires within hundreds of miles if out of spec.
  5. Recalibrate any driver assistance features if alerted by the vehicle (camera/steering angle sensor relearns happen automatically over a short drive in most cases on this build).

Verification

  • With wheels straight ahead, confirm steering wheel is centered. If off-center after alignment, alignment shop must re-center.
  • Test drive at low speed first — listen for clunks over bumps (indicates loose control arm bolt or improperly seated ball joint taper).
  • At 25–45 mph on a smooth road, vehicle should track straight with hands light on the wheel.
  • Re-torque lug nuts after ~50 miles.
  • Inspect ball joint boots for any pinching or tearing from installation.
  • Note: this job triggers the need for tire rotation tracking — Tesla recommends front tire rotation every 6,250 mi on Model Y due to high curb weight and instant torque wear; reset your rotation interval from this service date.
  • If brake fluid is older than 2 years, schedule that service separately per Tesla's published recommendation.

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