Replace front brake pads and rotors on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The high curb weight and regenerative braking means rotors often outlast pads but can develop edge corrosion; inspect both sides and replace as a pair.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake pad set (Model Y AWD specification) × 1 — OEM or equivalent ceramic/semi-metallic front pad set for 2024 Model Y AWD
• Front brake rotors × 2 — OEM-spec front rotors for 2024 Model Y AWD (verify diameter/thickness against your VIN)
• Caliper bracket bolts (if reuse not advised) × 4 — OEM-spec front caliper bracket bolt
• Pad anti-rattle clips/shims (if supplied with pad kit) × 1 — Included with most OEM pad kits

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (top-off only if needed) — 0.25 qt
• Silicone brake grease (slide pins / pad backing)

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located under the rear seat / front trunk area depending on build — refer to architecture notes for this Model Y).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place vehicle in Transport/Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V (Service > Jack Mode) to disable auto-leveling and prevent the car from attempting to engage parking systems.
7. Loosen front lug nuts ~1/4 turn while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved jack points and pucks; support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight (~4,400 lb curb).
9. Remove front wheels and set aside on the wheel face to protect the finish.
10. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap (front trunk area) and check fluid level; cover with a clean rag to prevent contamination.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect brake assembly before disassembly
   Visually inspect caliper, rotor, pads, dust boots, and brake hose. Note pad thickness, rotor scoring, and any leaks. Confirm rotor and pad part compatibility with what you sourced (Model Y AWD uses a specific front rotor diameter — verify against your VIN before proceeding).
2. 2

   Compress caliper piston
   With the caliper still mounted, use a piston compression tool or large C-clamp against the outboard pad to slowly press the piston back into its bore. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir — siphon out excess if it approaches MAX. This creates clearance for the new, thicker pads.
   ⚠Compress slowly. Forcing the piston can damage the seal or push debris past the seal lip.
3. 3

   Remove caliper slide/guide pin bolts
   Locate the two slide pin bolts on the rear of the caliper. Hold the slide pin with a wrench if it spins, and remove both bolts. Lift the caliper body off the bracket. Support the caliper with a bungee or hanger — never let it dangle from the brake hose.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove old brake pads and inspect hardware
   Slide the inboard and outboard pads out of the bracket. Inspect the abutment clips/anti-rattle hardware — replace if corroded or distorted. Clean the bracket abutment surfaces with a wire brush and brake cleaner.
5. 5

   Remove caliper bracket
   Remove the two large caliper bracket bolts securing the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are typically high-torque and may have factory thread-locker — use a breaker bar. Remove the bracket and set aside.
   ⚠Bracket bolts are torqued very high from the factory. Do not use an impact in a way that could shock-load the aluminum knuckle.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the rotor
   If equipped, remove any retaining clip or screw on the rotor hat. Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If seized due to corrosion at the hub-rotor interface, tap the rotor hat (not the friction surface) with a dead-blow mallet, or use the threaded jack-off holes if present. Do NOT strike aluminum components.
   ℹ️Coastal/road-salt vehicles often have severe hub corrosion. Penetrating oil and patience beat brute force.
7. 7

   Clean hub mating surface
   Wire-brush the wheel hub face until it is bare metal and flat. Any rust ridge between hub and rotor causes lateral runout and pedal pulsation. Apply a thin film of anti-seize to the hub center bore and the small contact area where the rotor hat sits — keep it off the friction surface and lug studs.
8. 8

   Install new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil. Slide the new rotor onto the hub. Reinstall the retaining clip/screw if used, or hold in place with a lug nut finger-tight to keep it seated during caliper bracket reinstall.
9. 9

   Reinstall caliper bracket
   Apply medium-strength threadlocker to clean caliper bracket bolt threads. Install bracket onto knuckle and torque the bolts to specification.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Service slide pins and install new pads
    Pull the slide pins from the bracket, wipe clean, inspect boots for tears, and apply fresh silicone brake grease before reinserting. Install new anti-rattle clips (if supplied). Apply a thin film of brake grease to pad backing plate contact points (NOT the friction surface). Seat the new inboard and outboard pads in the bracket.
    ⚠Torn slide pin boots will allow water ingress and lead to seized calipers. Replace pins/boots if damaged.
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper body
    Lower the caliper body over the new pads and onto the bracket. Reinstall the slide pin bolts and torque to specification. Confirm the caliper slides freely on the pins.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Repeat on opposite side
    Perform steps 1–11 on the other front wheel. Always service brakes as an axle pair — never replace one side only.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering.
2. Lower vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX with fresh DOT 3 from a sealed container; reinstall cap.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
6. With the vehicle off (but powered up), pump the brake pedal firmly 5–10 times until it becomes firm — this seats the pistons against the new pads. DO NOT skip this; the first pedal press after pad service can otherwise go to the floor.
7. Exit Jack Mode via touchscreen.
8. Confirm no warning messages on the instrument cluster (ABS, brake, stability).

Verification

• Brake pedal should feel firm and high after 5–10 pumps; if it sinks, recheck for fluid leaks at fittings and bleeder screws.
• Perform a low-speed bed-in: in a safe area, complete 8–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph down to ~5 mph (do not come to a complete stop), then drive a few minutes without heavy braking to allow rotors to cool. This transfers an even pad material layer.
• After bed-in, inspect for even pad contact pattern across the rotor face; uneven contact suggests caliper not sliding freely.
• Verify no ABS, traction, or brake warnings on the touchscreen.
• Re-torque lug nuts after ~50 miles — common practice on heavy EVs.
• Note: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If not done recently, schedule a flush.
• Note: Tire rotation interval is 6,250 mi on Model Y — combine with next pad inspection to maximize tire life.

More procedures for this vehicle