brakes
Brake Rotor - Front Single
for 2024 Tesla Model Y Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
11
Steps
12
Replacement of a single front brake rotor on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The Model Y shares its front brake architecture with the Model 3 Performance-spec hardware on AWD trims; rotors are retained by a small set screw and the caliper bracket bolts to the front knuckle.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a Tesla supported only by a jack. Use rated jack stands and approved jack pucks — improper lift points can crush the floor-mounted HV battery pack.
⚠️If you observe any orange cabling or HV components during this job, STOP. Front brake service should not require contact with HV — its presence indicates you are in the wrong area.
⚠Model Y has aluminum suspension/knuckle components — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or brass drift to free a stuck rotor.
⚠Regen braking will be reduced on the first few drives until the new rotor and pads bed in. The vehicle may also display a momentary 'Service Brake System' alert until a brake pedal apply is performed; this is normal.
ℹ️Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — check service history while the wheel is off.
ℹ️Tesla recommends tire rotation every ~6,250 mi due to heavy curb weight and instant torque. Inspect tire wear while the wheel is off.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands (or lift)Essential
Tesla-approved jack pad (puck) to protect battery packEssential
Torque wrench (5–150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (including 21mm for lug nuts)Essential
Hex/Torx bit set for caliper and bracket boltsEssential
T30 Torx bit for rotor set screwEssential
Caliper hanger or bungeeEssential
Wire brush and brake cleaner
Medium-strength threadlocker (blue)Essential
Anti-seize compound (for hub face only, sparingly)
C-clamp or caliper piston tool
Parts
- Front brake rotor (OEM-spec for Model Y LR AWD) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front rotor for 2024 Model Y AWD — verify by VIN
- Rotor retaining set screw (if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM-spec set screw
- Front brake pads (recommended if worn or contaminated) × 1 — OEM-spec front pad set for Model Y AWD
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on Model Y — refer to architecture notes).
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Before lifting: in the touchscreen, enable Service Mode > Jack Mode (or at minimum disable auto-leveling features; Model Y has coil suspension so air-suspension lockout is not applicable).
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts on the affected side while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Raise the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified front jacking point with a Tesla-approved puck. Support with rated jack stands.
- Remove the front wheel and set aside on its sidewall to protect the finish.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and prepare the brake assemblyVisually inspect the caliper, pads, rotor, dust shield, and flexible brake hose for damage, leaks, or contamination. Note pad thickness — if pads are near the wear limit, plan to replace them with the rotor. Spray the rotor hat and caliper bracket bolts with penetrating lubricant if corroded.
- 2Retract the caliper piston slightlyIf reusing pads, gently pry the caliper body outward against the pads to push the piston back into its bore enough to clear the new (thicker) rotor. Do not force — if resistance is high, open the bleeder screw briefly to relieve pressure rather than forcing fluid back through the ABS module.⚠Forcing fluid backward through the ABS/iBooster module can damage internal seals on Tesla's integrated brake system. When in doubt, crack the bleeder.Torque specBleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 3Remove the caliper slide pin boltsRemove the two caliper slide pin bolts securing the caliper body to the bracket. Lift the caliper off the rotor and support it with a hanger or bungee from the coil spring. Do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 4Remove the brake pads (if servicing)Slide the outer and inner pads out of the caliper bracket. Inspect the abutment clips/anti-rattle hardware and replace if corroded or deformed.
- 5Remove the caliper bracket from the knuckleRemove the two large caliper bracket bolts that fasten the bracket to the front steering knuckle. These are typically high torque and may require a breaker bar. Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.⚠These bolts are torque-to-spec critical fasteners. Inspect threads — replace if damaged. Apply fresh threadlocker on reinstallation.Torque specBracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 6Remove the rotor set screwLocate the small Torx set screw retaining the rotor to the hub face. Clean debris from the head before engaging the bit to avoid stripping. Remove the screw.⚠If the set screw is seized, apply heat sparingly and use an impact-style Torx driver. A stripped head will require drilling — keep a spare on hand.Torque specRotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
- 7Remove the rotorPull the rotor straight off the hub. If corroded to the hub, thread two bolts into the threaded service holes in the rotor hat (if present) and tighten alternately to push the rotor off — or strike the rotor hat (NOT the friction surface, NOT the aluminum knuckle) with a dead-blow hammer.⚠Do not strike the aluminum steering knuckle or hub flange. Damage to the wheel speed sensor tone ring will trigger ABS/traction faults.
- 8Clean the hub faceWire-brush the hub mating face until clean and flat. Any rust or debris will cause rotor runout and steering-wheel pulsation. Apply a very thin film of anti-seize ONLY to the hub centering ring — keep it off the wheel mounting face and lug studs.
- 9Install the new rotorWipe both friction surfaces of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil. Slide the rotor onto the hub, align the set-screw hole, and install the set screw.Torque specRotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
- 10Reinstall the caliper bracketApply blue threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolts. Thread them in by hand, then torque to spec. Verify sequence with the Tesla Service Manual if a specific tightening order is published.Torque specBracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 11Install pads and reseat caliperInstall the brake pads into the bracket with any anti-rattle clips correctly seated. Inspect the slide pins — they should move freely; if dry or gritty, clean and re-grease with silicone brake grease. Position the caliper over the pads and rotor.
- 12Torque the caliper slide pin boltsInstall the slide pin bolts and torque to spec. Confirm the caliper floats freely on the slides after tightening.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying torque to avoid cross-threading the aluminum hub.
- Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then torque the lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle fully and remove jack stands.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
- With the vehicle OFF (brake not pressed to wake), pump the brake pedal firmly 5–10 times until it feels firm. This reseats the caliper piston against the new pads/rotor. Do NOT skip this — the first pedal apply after caliper service will go to the floor.
- Check brake fluid level in the reservoir; top off with fresh DOT 3 if low. If fluid is older than 2 years, schedule a full brake fluid flush per Tesla's service recommendation.
- Wake the vehicle and exit Service Mode / Jack Mode if used.
Verification
- Confirm no warning messages on the touchscreen (no ABS, traction control, or 'Service Brake System' alerts after the first pedal apply and short drive).
- Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area: confirm the pedal is firm, the vehicle tracks straight under braking, and there is no grinding or scraping.
- Bed-in procedure: perform 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph down to ~5 mph with cool-down intervals, then 2–3 harder stops from ~50 mph. Avoid coming to a complete stop while the rotor is hot to prevent pad imprinting.
- After bed-in, expect regenerative braking to feel normal again. Some surface rust on the new rotor's unswept area is normal.
- Re-check lug nut torque after ~50 miles of driving — this is good practice on Model Y due to heavy wheel/tire assemblies.
- While the wheel was off, you should have noted tire wear (rotate every 6,250 mi) and brake fluid age (replace every 2 years per Tesla).