Replace both front brake rotors on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The fronts use a single-piston floating caliper with a separate caliper bracket; rotors are retained by a single Torx set screw.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake rotor (Model Y AWD front, manufacturer-specified) × 2 — OEM or equivalent front rotor for 2024 Model Y LR AWD — verify by VIN
• Rotor set screw (Torx) × 2 — OEM replacement set screw — recommended if original is corroded

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake via the touchscreen (Controls > Safety > Parking Brake) or gear stalk.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, the 12V (Li-ion) battery is accessed under the front trunk/frunk area — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the exact disconnect procedure on your build.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Disable Sentry Mode and dashcam to avoid draining the battery and recording during service.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front lift points using a puck adapter; support with jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight.
9. Remove both front wheels and set them aside on their faces to protect finish.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and pre-clean
   Visually inspect the caliper, slide pins, dust boots, brake hose, and rotor for damage or contamination. Note pad thickness — if pads are at or below the manufacturer-specified minimum, plan to replace them as a pair per axle. Wire-brush surface rust off the caliper bracket bolt heads to ensure clean tool engagement.
2. 2

   Retract caliper piston slightly
   With the caliper still mounted, use a C-clamp or piston compressor against an old pad to push the piston back ~1-2mm. This makes caliper removal easier and creates clearance for the new rotor. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap in the frunk first if pushing fluid back; monitor the reservoir level so it does not overflow.
   ⚠If brake fluid is dark or contaminated, do NOT push old fluid back into the ABS module — bleed/extract from the bleeder instead.
3. 3

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts that secure the caliper body to the caliper bracket. Slide the caliper off the bracket and support it with a hanger or bungee from a suspension component — never let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Inspect slide pins and boots; clean and re-grease with silicone brake grease on reassembly.
   ⚠Do not stretch or kink the flexible brake hose. Hanging the caliper by the hose can damage the internal liner.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove brake pads
   Lift the inboard and outboard pads out of the caliper bracket abutment clips. Note orientation and any wear-indicator location. If reusing pads (not recommended when replacing rotors), mark them inboard/outboard, left/right.
5. 5

   Remove caliper bracket
   Remove the two large caliper bracket bolts securing the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are high-torque fasteners and may have factory threadlocker — use a breaker bar with a properly fitting socket. Set the bracket aside on a clean surface; inspect abutment clips and replace if corroded.
   ⚠Do not reuse damaged or stretched bracket bolts. If in doubt, replace with manufacturer-specified hardware.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove rotor set screw and rotor
   Remove the Torx set screw retaining the rotor to the hub. If the rotor is stuck due to corrosion at the hub face, thread two bolts evenly into the rotor's threaded jacking holes (if equipped) and tighten alternately to push the rotor off. Do NOT strike the rotor with a steel hammer near the hub or knuckle — use a dead-blow if necessary, only on the rotor hat.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle and hub components — striking them can crack or distort precision surfaces.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Clean hub face
   Wire-brush all rust, scale, and debris from the hub mounting face until bare metal is visible. A non-flat hub face causes rotor runout, brake pulsation, and uneven pad deposits. Optionally apply a very thin film of anti-seize to the hub face only — keep it off the wheel mounting surface and lug studs.
8. 8

   Install new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor's friction surfaces with brake parts cleaner to remove protective oil. Mount the rotor over the hub studs and secure with the Torx set screw. Tighten the set screw to specification — its job is alignment, not clamping force, so do not overtighten.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall caliper bracket
   Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolt threads. Install the bracket onto the knuckle and torque the bolts to specification. Tighten in an alternating pattern and verify final torque with a calibrated wrench.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Install brake pads and caliper
    Reinstall pads (or new pads) into the bracket abutment clips, ensuring shims and wear-sensor wiring (if equipped) are properly oriented. Confirm the caliper piston is fully retracted, then slide the caliper over the new pads and onto the bracket. Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease to slide pin shafts (not the bolt threads). Install slide pin bolts and torque to specification.
    ⚠Do not get grease on rotor friction surfaces or pad faces. Contamination will cause permanent brake noise and reduced stopping power.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1-10 on the other front wheel. Both front rotors must be replaced as a pair to maintain even braking.
12. 12

    Pump brake pedal to seat pads
    BEFORE moving the vehicle, with the 12V reconnected and ignition active (brake systems energized), pump the brake pedal firmly multiple times until it becomes firm. The pedal will go to the floor on the first 1-2 strokes — this is normal because the pistons are fully retracted. Do not skip this step — driving without seating pads will result in NO BRAKES on the first pedal application.
    ⚠️Failing to pump the pedal before driving will result in total loss of braking on the first stop.

Reassembly

1. Verify brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX line; top up with fresh DOT 3 if needed and reseal the cap.
2. Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying any torque.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground and torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery per the Tesla Service Manual procedure.
5. Re-enable Sentry Mode/dashcam and any settings disabled during prep.
6. Confirm no warning messages appear on the touchscreen after wake-up.

Verification

• With the vehicle stationary and ignition active, press the brake pedal — it must be firm with normal travel. A spongy pedal indicates air in the system or unseated pads.
• Check for ABS, traction control, or brake warning indicators on the touchscreen — none should be present.
• Perform a low-speed (5-10 mph) brake test in a safe area, applying the brakes lightly multiple times to begin the bedding-in process.
• Bed in new rotors per the rotor manufacturer's procedure (typically a series of moderate stops from 30-40 mph, avoiding complete stops while rotors are hot). Note: regenerative braking reduces friction-brake usage, so bed-in must be done deliberately.
• After the first drive, recheck wheel lug nut torque (Wheel Lug Nuts) in the star pattern.
• Inspect for fluid leaks at the caliper and bleeder.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. Log this service date and plan accordingly. Tire rotation every 6,250 mi is also recommended on Model Y due to weight and torque-driven tire wear.

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