Replacement of the front lower control arm bushing on a 2024 Model Y AWD. Due to the integrated/pressed nature of the bushings in Tesla's forged aluminum lower control arm, most shops replace the entire control arm assembly rather than press the bushing — but if a serviceable bushing is being replaced, this procedure covers removal of the arm and bushing service.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm bushing (manufacturer-specified) × 1 — OEM Tesla front lower control arm bushing for 2024 Model Y
• Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse
• Control arm pivot bolts (if single-use per OEM spec) × 2 — Verify reuse policy in Tesla Service Manual; replace if specified

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on 2024 Model Y). Refer to Tesla Service Manual for exact access on this build.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before raising — this disables the air/level systems' fault logging and prevents the vehicle from attempting to self-level (note: 2024 Model Y has coil suspension, but Jack Mode still suppresses related faults).
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-designated lift points with puck adapters; support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Inspect the bushing, ball joint, and arm for cracks before disassembly — if the aluminum arm shows any cracking, replace the arm; do not service the bushing alone.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect sway bar end link from control arm
   Locate the sway bar end link where it attaches to the lower control arm. Hold the end link's internal shaft with the appropriate hex key while loosening the nut. Separate the link from the arm and swing it clear.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Separate lower ball joint from steering knuckle
   Remove and discard the cotter pin from the lower ball joint stud. Loosen the ball joint nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the threads and catch the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator (not a pickle fork on the boot) to break the taper. Once free, remove the nut completely and lower the arm away from the knuckle. Support the knuckle/strut assembly so it does not hang from the brake hose or wheel speed sensor harness.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang from the brake hose or ABS sensor wiring — secure with a bungee or stand.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Mark and remove control arm pivot bolts
   Before removal, paint-mark the orientation of any cam/eccentric washers (if equipped) so that initial alignment can be approximated on reinstall. Remove the rear pivot bolt first, then the front pivot bolt. Bolts may be long — ensure clearance from subframe and HV pack area when withdrawing them. Do NOT pry against the battery pack.
   ⚠️The HV battery pack is directly inboard of the control arm mounting points. Do not pry, drift, or strike toward the pack.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the lower control arm from the vehicle
   Maneuver the forged aluminum control arm down and out of the subframe pockets. Note the orientation of the bushing sleeve (front vs. rear) for reinstallation reference.
5. 5

   Press out the worn bushing
   Secure the control arm in a hydraulic press using bushing drivers sized to the outer shell of the bushing (support ring on the receiving side, driver pressing on the outer metal shell — never on the rubber). Press the bushing straight out. If the bushing is bonded and tearing, a sleeve cutter or careful sawing of the inner sleeve may be required — do not apply heat to the aluminum arm.
   ⚠Never apply a torch or heat gun to the aluminum control arm — it will anneal and weaken the part, creating a fatigue failure risk.
6. 6

   Inspect bore and install new bushing
   Clean the bushing bore in the arm. Inspect for cracks, ovaling, or galling — if any is found, scrap the arm and install a complete replacement. Lubricate the bushing OD with the manufacturer-specified assembly lubricant (typically a soap-based lubricant; do not use petroleum grease on rubber bushings). Press the new bushing in straight using the correct driver, observing any directional/orientation marks on the bushing. Stop when the bushing flange is fully seated.
7. 7

   Reinstall the control arm to the subframe
   Position the arm into the subframe pockets. Install both pivot bolts hand-tight only — do NOT final-torque yet. The arm must be loaded to ride height before torquing or the new bushing will be permanently preloaded and fail prematurely.
8. 8

   Reconnect ball joint to knuckle
   Raise the control arm to align with the steering knuckle. Insert the ball joint stud and install the nut. Torque the ball joint nut to specification, then continue tightening only as needed to align the cotter pin hole — never back off. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per OEM practice.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect sway bar end link
   Reattach the sway bar end link to the control arm. Hold the link shaft with a hex key and torque the nut to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Mount the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so full curb weight rests on the wheels. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Final-torque control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle's full weight on the wheels and the suspension settled at ride height, access the control arm pivot bolts and torque both to specification. This is critical — torquing while the suspension is drooping will destroy the new bushing.
    ⚠If you cannot access the bolts at ride height with a torque wrench, use drive-on ramps or a flush-mount lift — do not skip this step.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
2. Close the hood and all doors; allow the vehicle to fully wake and complete its self-check.
3. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
4. Confirm no suspension, ABS, or steering warnings are displayed on the instrument cluster / center display.
5. Drive the vehicle a short distance at low speed to verify there are no clunks, binds, or pulling before road testing.

Verification

• Perform a four-wheel alignment — mandatory after any control arm service. Tesla geometry specs are tight; out-of-spec alignment causes rapid tire wear (already a known weak point on Model Y).
• After alignment, perform Autopilot/steering angle sensor calibration as required by the alignment shop's Tesla procedure (typically a steering wheel angle reset via Service menu and a calibration drive).
• Road test on smooth and rough pavement: listen for clunks over bumps, verify steering returns to center, and confirm no pull.
• Re-inspect the new bushing, ball joint cotter pin, and torque-marked fasteners after the first 100–200 miles.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 miles on Model Y due to high wear rates — schedule a rotation if due, especially after alignment changes.

More procedures for this vehicle