suspension
Control Arm Bushing - Front Upper
for 2024 Tesla Model Y Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
12
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the front upper control arm bushings on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. On this platform, Tesla does not service the bushings separately — the upper control arm is replaced as a complete assembly, which effectively renews the bushings.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange high-voltage cable. The HV pack runs along the floor of the Model Y.
⚠️Lift only at Tesla-designated jack points using puck adapters. Lifting on the battery case, pinch welds, or aluminum subframe can crush the HV pack or deform structural aluminum.
⚠Model Y front structure uses extensive aluminum and high-strength steel. Do not strike suspension components with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift if persuasion is needed.
⚠The upper control arm bushings are not sold separately by Tesla. Do not attempt to press new bushings into the original arm — replace the arm as an assembly.
⚠Control arm fasteners must be final-torqued at ride height (vehicle weight on wheels). Torquing while suspension is hanging will pre-load the bushings and cause premature failure.
ℹ️An alignment is required after this job — the upper arm controls camber/caster on this platform.
Tools required
Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (deep and shallow)Essential
Metric combination wrenchesEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
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Parts
- Front Upper Control Arm Assembly (bushings integral) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front upper control arm for 2024 Model Y
- Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — OEM cotter pin (single use)
- Ball joint castle nut (if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model Y the 12V (lithium-ion) battery is accessed under the front trunk/frunk trim — remove the cosmetic cover and disconnect the negative terminal first.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using puck adapters and support on rated jack stands.
- Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
- Inspect the upper control arm, ball joint boot, and bushings; photograph orientation of any eccentric/alignment hardware before disassembly.
Procedure
- 1Support the knucklePlace a floor jack with a wood block under the lower control arm / steering knuckle area to support the suspension. This prevents the strut/knuckle from dropping and straining the lower ball joint or brake hose when the upper arm is disconnected.⚠Do not jack against the HV battery enclosure or aluminum cast subframe.
- 2Disconnect sway bar end link (if needed for clearance)If access to the upper arm is restricted, disconnect the sway bar end link at the strut/control arm. Hold the stud with an Allen key and remove the nut. Swing the link out of the way.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 3Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and castle nutStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Unthread the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin — it is single-use.⚠Never reuse a cotter pin on a ball joint — a new one is mandatory.
- 4Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckleUse a proper ball joint separator or tie-rod puller tool to break the taper. Avoid pickle-fork tools if possible — they tear the boot. Once free, swing the knuckle outward carefully without stressing the brake hose, ABS line, or lower ball joint.⚠Do not let the knuckle hang by the brake hose. Support it with the floor jack or a bungee.
- 5Mark and remove the upper control arm chassis boltsNote the position of any eccentric/alignment washers and mark them with paint before loosening. Support the arm, then remove the two bolts that secure the upper control arm to the chassis bracket. Withdraw the arm from the vehicle.ℹ️Even with marks, alignment will shift slightly — a 4-wheel alignment is required after reassembly.
- 6Compare new and old armLay the new upper control arm next to the old one. Confirm orientation, ball joint position, and bushing sleeve length match. The Model Y upper arm is handed (left/right specific) — verify before installation.
- 7Install the new upper control arm to the chassisPosition the new arm in the chassis bracket. Install the chassis bolts with any eccentric washers in their original orientation. Hand-tighten only at this stage — final torque is applied at ride height.⚠Do NOT final-torque the control arm bolts yet. Torquing with the suspension hanging will pre-load the new bushings and shorten their life.
- 8Reconnect the upper ball joint to the knuckleGuide the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and torque to specification, then continue tightening (never loosen) only as far as needed to align the slot with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice.⚠️If the castle nut slot does not align after reaching torque, advance the nut — never back off. Backing off can cause the ball joint to loosen in service.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 9Reconnect the sway bar end link (if disconnected)Reattach the sway bar end link. Hold the stud with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 10Reinstall the wheelMount the wheel and run the lug nuts down by hand. Snug them in a star pattern but do not final-torque until the wheel is on the ground.
- 11Lower the vehicle to ride height and final-torque the control arm boltsLower the vehicle until full vehicle weight is on the wheels (or use a drive-on lift / set the suspension at ride height with a jack under the lower arm to simulate loaded geometry). Final-torque the upper control arm chassis bolts to specification. This is mandatory for proper bushing life.⚠️Skipping the at-ride-height torque step is the #1 cause of premature bushing failure on this platform.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 12Final-torque the wheel lugsWith the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts175 Nm (129 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal and reinstall the frunk trim.
- Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary and confirm no binding or unusual noise.
- Verify all fasteners visually one more time before road test.
- Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately — do not drive long distances on uncorrected alignment as Model Y tires wear extremely fast under instant torque and high curb weight.
Verification
- Confirm steering is centered after alignment — the Model Y will display lane-keeping/Autopilot calibration faults if alignment is significantly off.
- Drive at low speed over a bump and listen for clunking from the upper arm area; a properly torqued bushing should be silent.
- After 50-100 miles, recheck the upper control arm chassis bolts for movement and re-verify torque (still at ride height).
- Inspect the new ball joint boot for tears and confirm the cotter pin is present and bent.
- Reminder for owner: with the front end open, this is a good moment to verify tire rotation interval (every 6,250 mi on Model Y) and check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years).
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0005Fuel Shutoff Valve A Control Circuit/OpenP0006Fuel Shutoff Valve A Control Circuit LowP0026Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1P0027Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1P0033Turbocharger/Supercharger Bypass Valve Control CircuitP0034Turbocharger/Supercharger Bypass Valve Control Circuit LowP0042HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 3)P0043HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 3)P0062HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 3)P0063HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 3)P0075Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)P0076Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 1)
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →