Replace the rear lower control arm bushing on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The Model Y rear suspension uses a multi-link design with several arms; bushings are typically replaced by either pressing new bushings into the existing arm or replacing the arm as an assembly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear control arm bushing (manufacturer-specified for Model Y rear suspension) × 1 — OEM Tesla rear control arm bushing — verify by VIN
• Control arm bolts/nuts (replace if single-use per Tesla service info) × 1 — OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model Y, this is accessed under the rear seat / behind a trim cover per the architecture notes; follow the in-vehicle 'Power Off' procedure on the touchscreen first if available.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the front wheels.
7. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle using only Tesla-specified lift points and lift pucks; support on jack stands.
9. Remove the rear wheel(s) on the side(s) being serviced.
10. Inspect the area for any underbody aero panels or shielding that must be removed to access the rear control arm; remove fasteners and set aside with hardware organized.
11. Identify which rear control arm contains the bushing being replaced (the rear suspension is multi-link; confirm against the work order before removing fasteners).

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the rear knuckle/hub assembly
   Place a jack with a soft pad under the rear knuckle/hub to support its weight before disconnecting suspension links. This prevents the half-shaft, brake hose, and ABS wiring from being stressed when the arm is freed.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the half-shaft or brake hose.
2. 2

   Disconnect adjacent suspension hardware as required
   Depending on which arm is being removed, you may need to disconnect the sway bar end link and/or loosen adjacent links to gain clearance. Disconnect only what is required. Hold the link shaft with an Allen key when loosening the nut.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Mark alignment cam positions
   If the control arm uses an eccentric/cam alignment bolt, paint-mark the cam-to-subframe position before loosening so the alignment can be approximated on reassembly. A four-wheel alignment will still be required afterward.
   ℹ️Marking is for reassembly reference only — do not skip the alignment after this job.
4. 4

   Remove the inboard control arm bolt
   Remove the nut and through-bolt that secures the control arm to the rear subframe. Penetrating oil may be required. Support the arm as the bolt is withdrawn.
5. 5

   Remove the outboard control arm fastener
   Remove the outboard fastener securing the arm to the rear knuckle. If a ball joint with a castle nut and cotter pin is present at this location on the specific arm being serviced, remove the cotter pin and back off the nut, then separate the joint using a manufacturer-approved separator (no pickle fork on aluminum).
   ⚠Do not strike aluminum knuckles or arms with a steel hammer.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the control arm from the vehicle
   Carefully maneuver the arm out from the subframe and knuckle. Inspect the bushing pockets, mating surfaces, and bolts for damage, corrosion, or elongation.
7. 7

   Press out the old bushing
   Secure the arm in a press (or use a hub-mounted bushing tool with the arm on the vehicle, if the arm design allows). Using the correct receiver and driver, press the old bushing straight out. Do not gouge the bushing bore. If the bushing is bonded rubber, cutting the rubber and collapsing the inner sleeve may be needed before pressing the outer shell.
   ⚠Pressing tools must be square to the bore — a cocked press will damage the arm and ruin the new bushing.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect the bushing bore
   Clean the bore thoroughly. Inspect for cracks, scoring, or ovality. If the arm bore is damaged, replace the arm rather than installing a new bushing into a compromised bore.
9. 9

   Press in the new bushing
   Lubricate the outer shell only with the manufacturer-specified lubricant (typically soapy water — never petroleum-based grease on rubber bushings unless specified). Press the new bushing in straight to the correct depth and orientation. Many directional bushings have void/voiding marks that must align with the load axis — follow the bushing manufacturer's orientation marks.
   ⚠Incorrect bushing orientation will cause premature failure and abnormal handling.
10. 10

    Reinstall the control arm
    Maneuver the arm back into the subframe and knuckle. Hand-thread all fasteners first. Do not fully torque the inboard pivot bolt yet — it must be tightened at ride height.
11. 11

    Snug fasteners and reconnect adjacent hardware
    Snug the inboard pivot bolt and torque the outboard fastener (and sway bar link, if disconnected) per spec. If a ball joint nut was used, install a NEW cotter pin after torquing.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall any underbody aero panels or shielding removed for access; ensure all clips and fasteners are returned.
2. Reinstall the rear wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
3. Lower the vehicle so full curb weight is on the wheels (or simulate ride height with a jack under the knuckle at the correct compression).
4. With the suspension at ride height, final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt.
5. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
6. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
7. Power the vehicle on and allow systems to re-initialize. Clear any chassis-related alerts on the touchscreen.

Verification

• Confirm no error messages on the center display (suspension, ABS, stability control).
• Visually verify all fasteners are seated and any new cotter pin is correctly bent.
• Bounce-test the rear corner; listen for clunks or creaks indicating a misaligned bushing or loose fastener.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed — required any time rear control arm fasteners are loosened on a Model Y.
• Test drive at low speed first, then highway speed; verify tracking, no pull, and no clunks over bumps.
• Recheck control arm pivot torque after the first ~100 mi of driving as a quality check.
• Service interval reminder: rotate tires every 6,250 mi to manage the Model Y's high tire wear, and recheck rear suspension bushings during each rotation while the wheels are off.

More procedures for this vehicle